Which island in Orkney to visit?

The Orkney Islands are a fascinating archipelago off the northern coast of Scotland, renowned for their rich history, stunning landscapes, and unique wildlife. Out of the 70 islands, only 20 are inhabited, yet the uninhabited ones still hold a wealth of secrets and natural beauty. However, with so much choice it is often difficult to decide which island to visit.

Here’s a closer look at some of the most often visited islands and the key attractions that will help you decide which to visit.

Orkney Mainland

This is the name given to the main island within Orkney and is the first place many people visit. It is divided into two halves east and west making planning and days out easier to plan.

East Mainland

• Tankerness and Rerwick Head: Explore this wildlife haven, perfect for birdwatchers, with opportunities to see short-eared owls and seals. The historic gun battery at Rerwick Head offers panoramic views and a peek into wartime history.
• Dingieshowe Beach: a sandy isthmus leading to the Deerness Peninsula
• Mull Head and the Gloup: Gunnery range and the Covenanters’ Memorial with the blowhole of the Gloup along the cliffs
• Kirkwall and St Magnus Cathedral: Visit the island’s capital, where the stunning St Magnus Cathedral stands as a testament to Orkney’s Norse heritage. Nearby, the Bishop’s Palace and Earl’s Palace provide a glimpse into medieval life.

This area of Orkney includes the capital Kirkwall with its beautiful red and yellow sandstone St Magnus Cathedral and associated Bishop’s Palace and Earl’s Palace. This is the main hub of the islands with ferries to the islands in the north as well as being close to the airport. Even around Kirkwall, there is wildlife and a walk along the quayside will result in seals watching from the water. Over the last few years, an otter has been making the Peedie Sea between the seafront and the supermarkets its home. Not something you would see in many other places.

As soon as you head out beyond the airport East Mainland becomes wild again. The first area is Tankerness and this is a haven for wild birds and wildlife. This is one of my favourite spots for short-eared owls. It is a large sheltered inlet that is protected from most of the weather making it a good adventure in bad weather.
There are some beautiful beaches including Newark Bay with its multi-coloured pebbles and the wide sweeping Dingieshowe Beach reaches over a large bank of dunes.
A short distance from Tankerness is Rerwick Head. This is an old gun battery used to protect the approaches to Kirkwall Harbour. It is crumbling but the buildings are still intact along with the gun placements.

Once past Dingieshowe Beach which forms a sandy isthmus, you are on the Deerness peninsula. This is where you will find the Gloup, a blowhole that can be seen from the clifftop path. If you are brave then there is a short walk down the cliffs to an ancient chapel now in ruins.
At the very end of Deerness is Mull Head with a World War One gunnery range and the Covenanters’ Memorial tower, erected to the memory of 200 religious prisoners who were shipwrecked in 1679. they were being transported to the American colonies and never made it.

West Mainland

• Ring of Brodgar and Stones of Stenness: Part of the UNESCO Heart of Neolithic Orkney, these ancient stone circles are iconic and awe-inspiring, set against the dramatic Orkney landscape.
• Skara Brae: Discover one of Europe’s best-preserved Neolithic villages at the Bay of Skaill, offering a unique window into prehistoric life.
• Yesnaby Cliffs: Experience the raw beauty of Orkney’s coastline with towering cliffs, the Yesnaby Castle sea stack, and the chance to spot marine wildlife.
• Kirkbuster Museum: A small croft that is now a museum giving insight into island life.
• Brough of Brisay: A tidal island with the remains of a Pictish fort and a Bishop’s Palace.
• Stromness: The second largest town on the islands with links to the Hudson Bay Company

This area of Orkney is rich in history and is where you will find many of the areas listed on the UNESCO listing for Heart of Neolithic Orkney. The stone circles at the Ring of Brodgar and Stones of Stenness stand proud against Stenness Loch and Harray Loch. A short distance away is the Bay of Skaill and Skara Brae, an almost intact neolithic village discovered in the 1850’s. There is also an old broch at Broch of Gurness, which whilst not Neolithic has certainly been in existence for a long period.

To the north of West Mainland is the small village of Brisay with the ruined Earl’s Palace and tidal island, Brough of Birsay with its lighthouse and the only working mill on Orkney. This is a great place to watch the sunset and wait for the northern lights to appear.

A small farm museum at Kirbuster gives the perfect introduction to how farmers worked the land through the centuries and many of the practices are still in use today, if slightly adapted for the modern day.

Between the Bay of Skaill and Birsay is Marwick Head with a thriving seabird colony below the Kitchener Memorial on the cliff top. This memorialises one of the biggest maritime disasters in the UK.

Further south is the stunning Yesnaby Cliffs and the solitary sea stack called Yesnaby Castle, a smaller version of the well-known Old Man of Hoy on the island of Hoy.

The main town in the west of the mainland is Stromness. This small town is where the ferry from Scrabster arrives and has a history rich in discovery with the Arctic voyages of John Rae departing from the town.

South Isles

Burray, Glimps Holm, Lamb Holm and South Ronaldsay

• Churchill Barriers: These causeways were constructed during World War II to protect the naval base at Scapa Flow. The barriers themselves remind of Orkney’s wartime history and provide access to Lamb Holm and other islands.
• Italian Chapel: Located on the island of Lamb Holm, which is accessed via South Ronaldsay, this beautiful chapel was built by Italian POWs during World War II and is a moving symbol of peace and creativity.
• St Margaret’s Hope: The main town on South Ronaldsay, St Margaret’s Hope is a charming village with traditional Orkney character and serves as the arrival point for ferries from the Scottish mainland.
• Hoxa Head: Visit this dramatic headland for its remnants of coastal defence installations from World War II, along with panoramic views over Scapa Flow.
• Windwick Bay: A hidden beach on the island’s east coast, this bay offers stunning cliffs, sea stacks, and opportunities to spot marine wildlife.
• Blockships: Visible from the Churchill Barriers, these sunken ships were initially used to block enemy submarines. They now serve as a haunting reminder of wartime and are popular with divers.

Burray, Glimps Holm, Lamb Holm and South Ronaldsay are connected to the Orkney Mainland by the Churchill Barriers.

Churchill Barriers to South Ronaldsay

From East Mainland, a series of causeways jump from island to island. Burray, Glimps Holm, Lamb Holm and South Ronaldsay are connected to the Orkney Mainland by the Churchill Barriers. The Churchill Barriers were built during the Second World War to prevent submarines from entering the natural harbour of Scapa Flow. Before the barriers were built, blockships were placed in the narrow entrances to Scapa Flow. These are now slowly slipping into the ocean and being engulfed by the dunes.

Before reaching South Ronaldsay the road passes the unassuming Italian Chapel. Built by Italian prisoners of war during World War Two it is a beautiful display of their skills and passion.

South Ronaldsay

Once on South Ronaldsay, the main road runs along the spine of the island with St Margarets Hope being the only large town that you will pass. This is where the Gills Bay ferry comes in. Along the east coast, there are several small beaches and coves that are reached along small lanes from the main road. On the most southerly tip of the island is the Tomb of Eagles, an unusual burial chamber with a unique access method.

From the southern end of South Ronaldsay views out across the Pentland Firth show the force of the tides in this narrow channel as well as the stunning hills and cliffs of the area around Duncansby Head and John O’Groats.

Hoy, Graemsay, and Flotta

• Lyness Naval Base: On Hoy, visit this museum to learn about Orkney’s vital role during both World Wars, with interactive exhibits and historical artefacts.
• Old Man of Hoy: A must-see, this towering sea stack is a favourite among climbers and offers stunning views for those who prefer to admire it from afar.
• Rackwick Bay: Known for its serene beauty, this bay on Hoy features red sandstone cliffs, a picturesque bothy, and a peaceful beach.
• Cantick Head Lighthouse: At the southern tip of Hoy, stay in a historic lighthouse and enjoy the chance to see puffins and other seabirds.
• Graemsay: A tiny, peaceful island perfect for a leisurely walk, home to two lighthouses and offering lovely views of the surrounding sea.

This small collection of islands is located south of Stromness and forms the southwest boundary of Scapa Flow. They are reached by ferry from Houton a pier just outside of Stromness. All the islands are quiet compared to the mainland but still have some unique places to visit.

Hoy has a deep link to the military and the base at Lyness is now a museum. It is right by the ferry and makes the perfect car-free day trip from Stromness. It tells the story of Scapa Flow and has interactive exhibits as well as a fantastic display in the converted oil storage tank.

Beyond Lyness the island becomes hilly. Rackwick Bay on the west coast is beautiful with an old bothy. The beach has red sandstone pebbles and is the starting point for the walk to the Old Man of Hoy. He is an amazing sea stack that stands 137 metres proud of the shoreline. He is often climbed by those looking for an adrenaline rush and for those looking for a more sedate approach can be seen from the Scrabster to Stromness ferry.

At the south end of the island is Cantick Head with its lighthouse which you can book for a stay. Puffins can be found around the headland here.
Graemsay is a very sedate island with two lighthouses and can be walked in a few hours. In contrast, Flotta is dominated by its oil terminal that glows through the night and never seems to rest.

North Isles

Rousay, Wyre, Eynhallow, Egilsay and Gairsay

• Midhowe Broch and Tomb: On Rousay, explore these impressive ancient ruins, showcasing life in Orkney thousands of years ago, with spectacular views across the sound.
• Westness Walk: Take a coastal walk on Rousay to discover more archaeological sites, including cairns and ancient settlements, along with stunning natural scenery.
• Eynhallow: A rarely visited island, Eynhallow is rich in wildlife and offers a unique opportunity to explore Orkney’s natural environment undisturbed.
• Egilsay: Visit the remains of St Magnus Church, linked to the martyrdom of St Magnus, Orkney’s patron saint.
• Wyre: Known for its tranquillity, this small island offers a peaceful retreat and the chance to explore its gentle landscapes.

These small islands are all located around the north coast of west Mainland. They can be reached by ferry from Tingwall, just outside Evie. Other than the ferry pier this is quite an isolated little spot.

Rousay is perfect for a day’s road trip and has enough neolithic burial chambers and more recent brochs to keep you occupied. These are all open and free to access although some require a walk across fields following well-trodden paths. Midhowe tomb and chambered cairn have been excavated and are protected from the elements by a large barn. Right next to the tomb and directly across the sound from the Broch of Gurness is Midhowe Broch. This is fairly intact and gives an impression of life in the remote corner of Orkney.

On the north side of Rousay is a beautiful beach. This is composed of fine golden sand with shallow beaches into the deep turquoise sea. Seals watch from the surf and fulmars can be seen on the thermals above the beach.
The other islands are all small and can be reached by ferry or private boat on specific days. Eynhallow is a special place linked to St Magnus and can only be visited a few days each year. These have their share of archaeology and wildlife encounters to be found.

Shapinsay

• Balfour Castle: This impressive Scottish Baronial-style castle dominates the island and is a key landmark. The grounds are beautiful to explore, offering a glimpse into Orkney’s past.
• Helliar Holm Lighthouse: Situated on a small islet just off Shapinsay, this lighthouse is a striking feature, particularly when viewed from the ferry.
• Iron Age Broch of Burroughston: One of the best-preserved brochs in Orkney, this site offers a fascinating look into ancient life, with panoramic views of the surrounding area.
• The Smithy Museum: Located in Balfour village, this small museum gives an insight into the island’s agricultural history and traditional crafts.
• Vasa Loch: A peaceful loch on the island that attracts various bird species, making it a good spot for a tranquil walk and wildlife spotting.

Shapinsay is the closest island to Kirkwall and is perfect for a small day road trip. The approach from Kirkwall is dominated by Balfour Castle, built in the Scottish Baronial style and Helliar Holm lighthouse. The main road loops around the island with small rocky beaches scattered along the coastline. The ruined kirk with views across the bay is the first landmark after Balfour village and is followed shortly afterwards by a standing stone and the remains of an Iron Age broch. This island is one of the more farmed islands and one of the last places to see beremeal being grown, a unique 6-row barley only grown in the Orkney islands.

Stronsay

• Vat of Kirbuster: Marvel at this stunning sea arch, a natural wonder carved by the relentless forces of the sea.
• Mill Bay: A tranquil bay perfect for a relaxing walk or beachcombing, with the chance to see seals basking on the shore.
• Odiness Bay and Lamb Head: Explore these dramatic cliffs, offering breathtaking views and a chance to see nesting seabirds.
• St Catherine’s Bay: Another of Stronsay’s beautiful bays, known for its gently sloping shorelines and crystal-clear waters.
• Stronsay Heritage Centre: Learn about the island’s history and culture, with exhibits on local life and archaeology.

Stronsay is a special little island with an undulating coastline and is known as the ‘Island of Bays’. It has three bays – St Catherine’s Bay, Bay of Holland and Mill Bay that are separated by two isthmuses. These large sweeping sandy bays are perfect for families with their sheltered gently sloping shorelines and beautiful shells – perfect for beachcombing. As well as the gentle beaches, Stronsay has dramatic sea cliffs at Odiness Bay and Lamb Head and a stunning sea arch at Vat of Kirkister. Wildlife is everywhere with seals and sea birds being the main visitors to the shoreline.

Westray and Papa Westray

• Noltland Castle: On Westray, explore this historic ruin, set amidst rolling countryside with views over the island’s rugged coastline.
• Noup Head: Visit this dramatic headland on Westray, home to thousands of seabirds, including puffins, and offering stunning cliff-top walks.
• Knap of Howar: On Papa Westray, see the oldest known stone house in northern Europe, offering a remarkable glimpse into ancient life.
• St Boniface Church: A peaceful site on Papa Westray, where you can feel the island’s deep spiritual history.
• Castle of Burrian: A top spot on Westray for puffin watching, especially during the summer months when these charming birds come to nest.

Westray is the furthest northwest of the Orkney islands and can be reached by a scheduled flight from Kirkwall or by ferry. It has several sandy beaches and a small village called Pierowall. Just outside Pierowall, heading towards the lighthouse at Noup Head is the abandoned Noltland Castle.

Close to the castle at Grobust Beach is a neolithic site called the Links of Noltland that is slowly giving up its secrets. Noup Head is home to a gannet colony and can be seen on a clear day from Birsay on the mainland. Puffins can be found in the summer months at the Castle of Burrian, the number one spot to find these amazing sea birds.

A short hop from Westray on the shortest commercial flight in the world is Papa Westray. This small island has the oldest house in northern Europe at the Knap of Howar.

Eday

• Stone of Setter: This imposing standing stone is one of Orkney’s tallest and most impressive prehistoric monuments, standing alone in the island’s rugged landscape.
• Vinquoy Chambered Cairn: Overlooking the Calf of Eday, this Neolithic cairn offers not only historical interest but also stunning views over the surrounding islands.
• Red Head Cliffs: These dramatic cliffs on the north coast of Eday are home to seabirds, including puffins, and offer spectacular coastal scenery.
• Calf Sound: The narrow stretch of water between Eday and the Calf of Eday is a great spot for wildlife watching, with seals often seen basking on the rocks.
• Mill Loch: A freshwater loch surrounded by moorland, perfect for a peaceful walk and spotting some of the island’s bird species, such as great skuas and red-throated divers.

Eday is located between Westray and Sanday and is the 9th largest of the Orkney islands. In the north is the Eday lighthouse overlooking Calf Sound to the smaller island called the Calf of Eday. As with all of the other Orkney islands, Eday has a rich history with Vinquoy chambered cairn overlooking Calf Sound.

The island also has the Stone of Setter an isolated standing stone as well as other cairns and stones. Eday has large areas of moorland which attracts different birds to the other islands including bonxies (great skuas), Arctic skuas and red-throated divers. It is quite a marshy island and is one of the few places in Orkney where bog myrtle can be seen in the summer months.

Sanday

• Start Point Lighthouse: This distinctive striped lighthouse sits on a tidal island and offers sweeping views of the North Sea. It’s a perfect spot for photography and coastal walks.
• Quoyness Cairn: A Neolithic burial chamber that you can explore inside, offering a fascinating insight into ancient burial practices.
• Bay of Lopness: Home to a World War I shipwreck, this beautiful beach also offers great opportunities for spotting seals and other marine life.
• Cata Sand: One of Sanday’s many stunning beaches, perfect for a peaceful stroll, beachcombing, or simply enjoying the solitude of Orkney’s shores.
• The Croft Museum: Visit this small museum to learn about traditional Orkney farming and rural life, giving a glimpse into the island’s cultural heritage.

Sanday does live up to its name. It has miles of beautiful light sand beaches with rolling dunes. These are perfect for an isolated wander as you will more than likely have them to yourself even in the height of summer.

The island has a striped lighthouse at Start Point. This lighthouse on its tidal island is worth a visit as well as a neolithic burial chamber called Quoyness Cairn that you can explore inside and a World War I shipwreck that can be seen from Bay of Lopness beach. As with the other islands, this is a haven for wildlife. The highlights have to be the seals, otters and short-eared owls as well as the occasional snowy owl who passes through.

North Ronaldsay

• North Ronaldsay Lighthouse: The island’s iconic lighthouse is the tallest land-based lighthouse in the UK. The old beacon nearby adds to the island’s historical charm.
• North Ronaldsay Sheep Dyke: This stone dyke encircles the island, keeping the unique seaweed-eating sheep on the shore. A walk along the dyke offers scenic coastal views.
• Bird Observatory: A hub for birdwatchers, the observatory tracks migrating birds and provides comfortable accommodation for visitors.
• Standing Stones: Explore the island’s ancient standing stones, which add to its mysterious and historic atmosphere.

North Ronaldsay is the most northerly of the Orkney Islands and feels the most remote. On the north coast is its large and dominant lighthouse with the old beacon close by. To the south is the harbour and bird observatory. Surrounding the entire island is a stone-built dyke which keeps the sheep on the sea side of the wall.

These hardy sheep are unique to North Ronaldsay and are one of the few species of sheep to graze on seaweed. The main road of the island runs straight down the middle from the lighthouse to the harbour making exploring on foot easy. The whole island can be walked in a day or two with short detours to explore the beaches and standing stones.

Practical Information for Visiting Orkney

Getting to Orkney

Travelling to Orkney can be an adventure. Ferries run from mainland Scotland to several locations on the islands, including Kirkwall and Stromness. Alternatively, flights are available to Kirkwall from major Scottish cities such as Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Aberdeen.

Accommodation in Orkney

Orkney offers a variety of accommodation options to suit all budgets and preferences. In Kirkwall and Stromness, you’ll find small bed and breakfasts, guesthouses, hotels and campsites.

Best Times to Visit

The best time to visit Orkney is during the summer months, from May to September. The weather is milder, and the days are long, allowing you to make the most of your time exploring the islands. Summer also coincides with many local festivals and events, providing additional opportunities to experience Orkney’s culture.

Getting Around

Orkney is relatively easy to navigate, with a network of roads connecting the main islands. Car rentals are available, and there are also public bus services that can take you to most of the key locations.