Unearthing the secrets of Skara Brae, Orkney: A Neolithic village frozen in time
Skara Brae is a Neolithic settlement on the Orkney Islands in Scotland. It is one of the most important archaeological sites in the world, and it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Skara Brae was built around 3100 BC, and it was abandoned around 2500 BC.
In 1850 a winter storm exposed the village, hidden in the sand dunes. Excavation has been ongoing since it was discovered and there is now a reconstructed house and visitor centre close to the village.
The settlement consists of eight houses, which are made of stone and would have had a turf roof. The houses are arranged in a semicircle, and they are connected by passages. The houses have a number of features that are unique to Skara Brae, including stone furniture, hearths, and drains.
The exact reason why Skara Brae was abandoned is unknown. However, there are a number of theories, including climate change, flooding, and social unrest. Skara Brae survived the elements because it was built in a sheltered location and made of stone which did not degrade over time.
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History of Skara Brae
Driving along the northeast coast of Mainland Orkney the sea is never far away. Even on summer days, the sky is grey and the sea reflects the cold grey clouds. This area was the heart of the Neolithic world over 4500 years ago. People lived here on this remote part of the planet before the Egyptians were building pyramids and many of the buildings were abandoned before Stonehenge was thought about.
Even the name of the bay where Skara Brae sits sounds ancient. Who can’t image the past with a name like the Bay of Skaill? The bay has a sandy beach which graduates gently onto the surrounding land. The bay is believed to have been formed in an ancient tsunami event. In 1858 a Viking treasure trove was found close to St Peter’s Kirk, hidden nearly 1000 years before, possibly as a pagan ritual offering.
Is Skara Brae older than Stonehenge?
The reality of how old Skara Brae really comes into perspective when you realise that it was inhabited 1000 years before Stonehenge and the Pyramids were built at Giza. It really is hard to believe how long ago Skara Brae was in use.
Stones along the path from the visitors centre to the village mark time passing with historical moments – man on the moon, the two world wars, the English Civil War and the building of Stonehenge.
With the gulls circling and the wind blowing as it always does on Orkney you will arrive at the entrance to Skara Brae village. The village was hidden within the sand dunes, no wonder it was lost for so many years. If it had not been for a large storm in 1850 which blew some of the sand away, it may have still been hidden today.
How big was Skara Brae?
There is also a strong possibility that Skara Brae was much larger than the 8 homes we see today. Some buildings were known to have been washed away in a storm in 1924. Given the period of time since its building in about 3100 BC, who knows how many have been lost over time, but what remains is so perfectly preserved it is hard to believe its age.
It is suggested however that there were 10-12 homes in the village. Walking around it was possible to see the homes and cells. The exposed position of the site made it possible to imagine the harsh life that the inhabitants survived and gave us a moment to be thankful for our own creature comforts of the modern-day.
Despite the warmer climate and reduced breeze, it would have remained a harsh place to live. From the walk around it was possible to see the central hearth in each home with the stone dresser and bed boxes, all preserved for over 4000 years beneath the sands which engulfed the village.
Thoughts about living at Skara Brae
Walking across the fields towards Skaill House, where the land-owner William Watt had lived in 1850, the remote site was the source of heated discussion – lots of hows and why’s, if only there were more answers I could give. The biggest question was ‘Who would want to live here?’. I think I was asking myself that question as well, given the long cold and windy winters and the cool and overcast days that fill some of the summer months.
Orkney was however a warmer and busier place in the Neolithic period. People from this village were aware of the nearby religious centres at Brodgar and Stenness and the slightly earlier burial chamber at Maeshowe. Orkney was known to be an important area in the Neolithic period, despite its remote location.
The structure of these buildings is mirrored in the Stonehenge area. This suggests that the designs used here in Orkney migrated southwards over time. It is quite exciting to think that this remote part of Scotland was leading the world in thinking and design.
Complete Guide to the
Orkney Islands
Read all about the Orkney Islands, places to visit and the unique wildlife you may encounter
Skaill House
Skaill House, when you arrive, is typical of a Victorian house with a grand staircase, opulent furnishings and everything a landowner in the 1850s required to represent their wealth and status. From ornate bedspreads and a library full of books to guns and shooting trophies, this landowner had it all.
Bay of Skaill and Hole o’Row
The Bay of Skaill runs alongside Skara Brae. It is a wide sandy beach with rocks at the north end. When the tide is out the sand is exposed and is perfect for walking. In winter months the storms blow in bringing huge waves that roll across the bay.
At the southern end of the bay on the headland, there is an archway in the sea cliffs known as Hole O’Row. When the waves are crashing into the coast the waves explode through the hole in the headland. On clear calm days, it is possible to walk out to the hole and explore.
More information about Skara Brae and Skaill House
Skara Brae is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site that is known as the Heart of Neolithic Orkney. This site includes Maeshowe, the Stones at Stenness and the Ring of Brogdar.
To help little ones explore Skara Brae from home there is a brilliant BBC activity website
Finally, this excellent YouTube video explains all about the site, really interesting if you want to see more.
Visiting Skara Brae and Skaill House
The Bay of Skaill and Skara Brae are located on the west coast of Orkney Mainland. It is about a 20-minute drive from Stromness and just over an hour from Kirkwall. Take the A967 from Kirkwall and Stromness towards Birsay and on the first sharp bend the B9056 forks to the left. This road will take you to Skara Brae and a little further on from the house is a parking area on the right with access to the beach.
When is the best time of year to visit Skara Brae?
Skara Brae is open all year round although hours are reduced in the winter. Skaill House is only open in the summer months as it costs too much to heat!! It is best to check up-to-date opening times and prices on the website before visiting.
Skara Brae can get busy at times especially when cruise ships are visiting Kirkwall. It is worth checking ships’ schedules before heading to Skara Brae in the summer months.
The whole site is maintained by Historic Scotland and having their membership will get you free admission. If you have an English Heritage membership you can also enjoy reduced entry costs.
If you want to see all of Orkney on a guided tour then Rabbie’s Tours is one option.
Skara Brae summary
Skara Brae is a Neolithic settlement on the Orkney Islands in Scotland. It is one of the most important archaeological sites in the world, and it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Located on the windswept west coast of Orkney mainland the village has been excavated and along with a visitors centre it is possible to walk around the ruined village.
- Sandwick, Stromness KW16 3LR
- Find on Google Maps
- Visit Historic Environment Scotland Skara Brae Website
