Landscapes, history and beaches on Sanday, Orkney
Sanday really is the ultimate in Wild Weekends. Sitting within the Orkney Island archipelago it is reached by ferry or plane from Kirkwall. These services run every day unless the weather is too harsh but harsh by Orkney standards is a long way from your ‘normal’ concept of ‘harsh’.
This island is home to about 550 people and is thriving. There is a school, sports centre, a choice of shops (food and every hardware item imaginable!) and a few places to eat. There is also a choice of places to stay from unique Bed and Breakfasts, and cosy holiday cottages to the shoreline campsite.
The island is just 16 miles long making it perfect for exploring in a weekend. There is bicycle hire on the island and an on-demand bus service which makes a car-free adventure achievable with some advanced planning. The island is low-lying lying which caused problems for seafarers in the past who kept bumping into the rocky shores, but this makes exploring easy today. There are no high cliffs and no steep hills to navigate.
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What to do in a weekend on Sanday
Explore the Beaches
Sanday lives up to its name with lots of stunning beaches. Some are just little coves whilst others stretch for miles. It would be easy to spend a whole day just exploring one beach, walking, wave watching and exploring sand dunes. The alternative is to visit and explore them all. The size of the island allows you to visit all the beaches in two days quite easily. Whatever your choice just be aware that there are no facilities. Bring snacks, picnics and water plus whatever you need for a ‘tree-wee’ moment.
Visit the Lighthouse
Start Point Lighthouse sits on a headland at the most easterly point of the island. It is unique with its black and white stripes, an attempt to distinguish it from its neighbour on North Ronaldsay. The lighthouse is located on a tidal island so you will need to check tide times carefully before attempting the crossing.
- Parking area at end of B9069 and then follow the path along the sand dunes
- Google Maps
- Check the tide times before attempting to cross the causeway
Step back in time at Quoyness Chambered Cairn
This neolithic chambered tomb is on a headland between Lady Village and Kettletoft. The road down to the tomb is sandy and follows the shores of the Peedie Sea. The road finishes at Quoy Ayre and then it is a short 20-minute walk along the long sandy bay of Sty Wick to the site. The track is obvious and signposted. There is a detailed information board and torches for when you are inside the tomb.
Quoyness Chambered Cairn from at least 2900 BC opens up from a long entrance tunnel. A 4-metre-high central chamber has six side cells leading off. Each cell has a low entrance before opening up into a small chamber. The stones fit together perfectly, a jigsaw of sizes, reaching the full height of the cairn. Larger stones act as a plinth over the openings, and smaller stones fill gaps in the corners.
This cairn was first excavated in 1867 when the remains of 15 people were found in the main chamber and four of the side cells. Small items, similar to those found at nearby Skara Brae were also found. Now the cairn is silent, a monument to the lives of the individuals who were buried here over 5000 years ago.
The cairn is open at all times and there is no charge. Torches are left in a box at the entrance to the cairn. Just remember to put it back in when you leave and drop the catch on the main gate and the gate to the entrance passageway.
- Parking at Sty Wick Bay
- Google Maps
- Follow the path along the coast remembering to leave gates as you find them
See the Devils Claw Mark
This is a quick stop. At the top of the road that leads to Quoyness, there is a ruined kirk. On the side nearest the road, there are some steps and at the top of these there are deep grooves in the stone, said to be the marks of the devil.
The Devil’s Footprint is a carving of a cloven hoof, which is said to have been made by the Devil himself. There are different versions of the story surrounding the Devil’s Footprint. One version says that the Devil came to Sanday to build a bridge to the mainland, but was foiled by the locals who removed a crucial stone from his construction. In revenge, the Devil stamped his foot on the church wall before flying off in a rage. Another version suggests that the Devil’s Footprint was made during a fight with a local saint, who managed to defeat him and force him to flee.
- Lady Kirk on the B9069 between Newark and Lady Village
- Google Maps
- Park just off the main road as the Kirk is on a corner
Visit Kettletoft
Kettletoft is one of the villages on the island and has a small working harbour. It is a natural harbour that has been used for centuries by local fishermen, traders, and travellers. Today, the harbour is still used for fishing although the ferries that once docked here now arrive at the southern end of the island. It is a lovely place to wander, look at the fishing boats and watch for seals who haul out on the rocks.
Visit The Croft and Museum
In the centre of Lady Village is the island museum and The Croft. The museum has lots of information about the island and its people. There is a small section on wildlife and sea life as well as a small local research room. Next door is The Croft. It looks like a small residential house but is in fact part of the museum. The building has been restored to its earlier days and now gives an insight into how the villagers lived in the past.
The croft houses were small but comfortable with a large fireplace and the traditional box beds seen throughout the Scottish islands. Small touches made the house a home and were stored alongside the more functional everyday items found in the small family rooms.
After a winter of love by a team of island residents the Croft is now back to how it would have been over 100 years ago. Cosy but basic, the story of Jock Scott and his family who lived in this small home until 1966 comes alive as you wander and explore.
SANDAY HERITAGE CENTRE
Temperance Hall, Lady Village, Sanday, KW17 2BW
Hours – 9.30 am -5 pm (Mon-Sat)
Website – http://www.visitsanday.com/sanday-heritage-centre/
The museum is open year-round including Sundays, but check the website for full opening times
Explore the Wildlife
Sanday is full of wildlife. The beaches are home to sea birds and waders. The fields have resident rabbits and if you are lucky you may catch sight of a short-eared owl. All along the coast, there are seals and from time to time orcas, whales and dolphins can be spotted. Wildflowers line the roadsides and the dunes along the beaches with everything from tiny violas to large grasses.
Sanday Ranger runs wildlife walks throughout the summer. These are advertised across the island and are fantastic if you are short on time or want to find something specific easily.
See a shipwreck
Just off the shore at the Bay of Lopness is a shipwreck. A World War 1 German ship, the B98, came to rest in this bay at the end of the war. She is uncovered at low tide and is worth a brief stop on the way to the lighthouse.
- Small parking area off the B9069 close to the lighthouse
- Google Maps
- Walk to the sea wall and the sand dunes and the wreck is just below
Getting to Sanday
Sanday can be reached by ferry from Kirkwall on Orkney Mainland or by air from Kirkwall Airport. Kirkwall Airport has direct flights daily from all major Scottish airports making it possible to fly to Sanday from mainland Britain.
Sanday is a 90-minute ferry ride from Kirkwall on Orkney Mainland. Travel is possible as a foot passenger, with a car or bike and dogs can travel as well. A direct ferry runs daily unless the weather is really bad. You do need to book but payment is not taken until you are on board.
When you arrive in Kirkwall, follow the signs to the North Isles Ferry. Follow behind the buildings until you see a row of signs. Park the car by the island you are travelling to. The crew will load the cars and other vehicles in the best order for them. Do not get frustrated if the loading is random and you are last on despite being there first. There is a reason for the order.
During the crossing, someone will come around and take payment for cars and foot passengers.
It is a lovely crossing passing Shapinsay, Eday and Stronsay. Getting outside and enjoying the scenery is worthwhile even if it means wrapping up well.
You can also fly from Kirkwall airport to Sanday. When you are planning on how to get to Orkney you should allow time for weather delays and cancellations if you are looking to connect onto an inter-island flight. The flight to Sanday is just a short hop and if you don’t want to take your car over it is a quick alternative. It is also a great adventure if you want a day trip to the island. Just remember to organise some transport for when you arrive on Sanday as it is a fair walk to anywhere on the island from the airport.
Staying on Sanday
Sanday has a number of options including Bed and Breakfast and hotels. For an easy weekend with freedom to come and go, there is nowhere better than Ayres Rock. This small, family-run campsite and hostel has lots of options. From basic camping to cosy pods, hostels and self-catering there is a range of options. The facilities are clean and the owners have lots of ideas and suggestions for things to do.
When is the best time of year to visit Sanday?
Sanday can be visited throughout the year and the weather is typically Scottish. Even in the height of summer, it is quiet.
In the winter months, the island can be wild with storms preventing you from arriving or leaving. The beaches are exposed and can be spectacular although caution and care are needed.
In the summer it can be a tropical paradise with blue skies and turquoise seas, but as with any island, this can change in a moment. The summer months also bring a range of birds that pass through the islands.
Would I enjoy a weekend on Sanday?
If you want somewhere that feels remote but has facilities then Sanday is perfect. There is lots to fill a weekend and is good for all ages. My boys loved the history but were also happy to romp along the beaches. For those escaping children, there are beautiful walks and perfect beaches for romantic sunsets if that is your thing!
Complete Guide to the
Orkney Islands
Read all about the Orkney Islands, places to visit and the unique wildlife you may encounter