St Magnus Cathedral, Orkney

Nestled in the heart of Kirkwall, the capital of Orkney, lies a stunning piece of medieval architecture – St Magnus Cathedral. Often referred to as the ‘Light in the North,’ this magnificent structure is a testament to Orkney’s history and culture. It is the most northerly cathedral in the UK and is nearly 900 years old, taking 300 years to complete after its founding in 1137.

St Magnus Cathedral, built from red and yellow sandstone, is a prominent structure in Kirkwall, significantly contributing to the city’s skyline. It is visible as you come over the islands to land at Kirkwall and from the ferries to the Northern Isles.

The yellow sandstone is thought to be from Eday, one of the islands to the north of Kirkwall. The cathedral showcases Romanesque architecture with Gothic influences. Its exterior features detailed stonework that has endured centuries of sea salt on the wind and winter storms.

The cathedral has a spacious nave with high vaulted ceilings and rows of pillars. Stained-glass windows allow light to fill the interior, enhancing the interior. The cathedral maintains a quiet and reflective atmosphere, making it a serene place to visit.

The cathedral walls feature exquisite 17th-century gravestone carvings. Prominent figures from Kirkwall’s history were buried beneath the floor, with these magnificent memorials marking their resting places. The carvings include ‘memento mori’ symbols such as skulls, bones, and hourglasses, serving as reminders of mortality.

The graveyard around the cathedral shares the stories of the people who lived and worked in Kirkwall. It is full of snowdrops in the spring, peeking through the frozen ground. While exploring the headstones, look out for the red heart of a family buried together.

The History of the Cathedral

Founded in 1137 by the Viking, Earl Rognvald, in honour of his uncle, St Magnus, the cathedral is one the remnants of Orkney’s Norse heritage. St Magnus was martyred in the early 12th century, and his subsequent canonisation led to the creation of this sacred site to enshrine his relics.

A skull found with damage similar to his fatal head injury was found in one of the pillars within the cathedral. Over the centuries, St Magnus Cathedral has witnessed pivotal events in Orkney’s history, from Viking battles to the Reformation, each leaving a mark on its structure and story.

The cathedral was built over several centuries, resulting in a blend of architectural styles. Its construction began in the Romanesque style and gradually incorporated Gothic elements, reflecting the evolving tastes and influences of the time. It was extended in the 1400s and the steeple was added in 1920.

St Magnus

One of the legends associated with St Magnus Cathedral is the tale of St Magnus himself. According to the Orkneyinga Saga, Magnus Erlendsson, Earl of Orkney, was known for his piety and peaceful nature. However, his cousin Haakon saw him as a rival and, during a supposed truce meeting, had Magnus brutally murdered. After his death, Magnus’s body was said to have performed miracles, leading to his sainthood.

St Magnus Way

The St Magnus Way is a long-distance pilgrimage route that stretches for 58 miles across Orkney , following the journey of St Magnus’s body after his martyrdom in Egilsay in 1117 to its final resting place in St Magnus Cathedral. This trail passes through various landscapes, including coastal paths, rolling hills, and moorlands. Along the route, there are several significant stops, such as Birsay, where St Magnus’s bones were initially buried, and sites that provide insight into the region’s Viking heritage.

John Rae

The cathedral also houses the tomb of John Rae, an Arctic explorer. Rae, who discovered the final link to the Northwest Passage, was a native of Orkney, and his burial here underscores the region’s deep maritime connections and role in global exploration.

What Not to Miss in Kirkwall close to the Cathedral

The Earl’s Palace

Located just across from St Magnus Cathedral, the Earl’s Palace is a stunning Renaissance ruin that offers a glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of the Orkney earls. Built in the early 17th century by Patrick Stewart, Earl of Orkney, the palace features grand halls, imposing towers, and intricate stonework. Despite its ruinous state, it remains an evocative and atmospheric site, perfect for exploring the region’s aristocratic past.

The Bishop’s Palace

Adjacent to the Earl’s Palace, the Bishop’s Palace is another significant historical site. Dating back to the 12th century, it was originally built for the bishops of Orkney and later served as a residence for the bishops of the post-Reformation period. The palace’s tower offers spectacular views of Kirkwall and the surrounding countryside, providing a perfect vantage point to appreciate the harbour and the islands beyond.

The Orkney Museum

Situated a stone’s throw from the cathedral, the Orkney Museum provides a comprehensive overview of the archipelago’s history, from its Neolithic roots to the present day. The museum’s exhibits include Pictish carvings, Viking relics, and artefacts from the Scottish and Norse periods. Its well-curated displays and informative guides make it an excellent complement to a visit to St Magnus Cathedral.

Know Before You Go

St Magnus Cathedral is open to visitors year-round, but it’s worth checking for any seasonal variations in opening times. Admission is free, though donations are welcomed to help with the cathedral’s upkeep. Parking in Kirkwall can be limited so it is better to arrive early. There are several inexpensive car parks and there is some free street parking close to the Cathedral, but do check restrictions!

Be mindful of ongoing services and events that might restrict access to certain areas. The cathedral’s serene environment is best enjoyed with a respectful and quiet demeanour, allowing everyone to appreciate its spiritual and historical significance.

Practical Information for Visiting Orkney

Getting to Orkney

Travelling to Orkney can be an adventure. Ferries run from mainland Scotland to several locations on the islands, including Kirkwall and Stromness. Alternatively, flights are available to Kirkwall from major Scottish cities such as Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Aberdeen.

Accommodation in Orkney

Orkney offers a variety of accommodation options to suit all budgets and preferences. In Kirkwall and Stromness, you’ll find small bed and breakfasts, guesthouses, hotels and campsites.

Best Times to Visit

The best time to visit Orkney is during the summer months, from May to September. The weather is milder, and the days are long, allowing you to make the most of your time exploring the islands. Summer also coincides with many local festivals and events, providing additional opportunities to experience Orkney’s culture.

Getting Around

Orkney is relatively easy to navigate, with a network of roads connecting the main islands. Car rentals are available, and there are also public bus services that can take you to most of the key locations.