Greenland Sled Dogs: Guardians of the Arctic

In the early morning hours, as the soft light of dawn begins to break over Ilulissat, a sound seems to rise with the sun, a chorus of sled dogs howling across the landscape. Their calls echo through the stillness, mingling with the crisp Arctic air and creating an eerie, beautiful symphony that feels as ancient as the ice. It’s a sound that stays with you, a reminder of how deeply these remarkable animals are intertwined with the rhythms of life in Greenland.

Greenland sled dogs are not just working animals. They are an integral part of Greenlandic culture and history. I will explore the significance of these dogs, their unique adaptations to the Arctic environment, and their role in the Inuit people’s lives.

A Brief History of Greenland Sled Dogs

It is thought that sled dogs have a lineage going back over 9500 years when wolves bred with the ancestors of today’s sled dogs and pre-contact American dogs in the Arctic regions of Siberia. They are very different to the huskies and sled dogs in North America and Scandinavia.

Given this lineage, Greenland sled dogs are among the oldest domesticated dog breeds in the world. They are believed to have accompanied the Thule people, ancestors of modern Inuit when they migrated to Greenland from Canada around 4,000 years ago. These dogs were essential to the Thule way of life, providing the means to hunt seals and polar bears, transport goods across vast distances, and even serve as a source of warmth during the frigid Arctic nights.

The Greenland sled dog is not just a breed but a way of life. For generations, these dogs have been bred for their strength, endurance, and resilience. Unlike modern domestic breeds, they have remained largely unchanged by selective breeding, retaining the raw physical and mental attributes needed to survive in the Arctic.

Physical Characteristics

The Greenland sled dog is a large, robust breed, built for strength and endurance. They typically weigh between 30 to 40 kilograms (66 to 88 pounds), with thick double coats that protect them from the extreme cold. Their coat, which can be any colour, is incredibly dense, helping them withstand temperatures that can plummet below -40°C (-40°F). This natural insulation allows them to sleep outside in the snow, often burying themselves under a layer of ice to stay warm.

Their broad chests and strong legs give them the power to pull heavy sledges across vast distances, sometimes travelling up to 70 kilometres (43 miles) in a single day. What sets them apart from other sledge dog breeds, such as the Alaskan Husky, is their ability to pull weight over long periods rather than sprint short distances. The Greenland sled dog is the ultimate endurance athlete, perfectly suited to the demands of life in the Arctic.

Their paws are wide and covered in fur, which provides extra traction on the ice, while their curled tails offer protection from the cold by wrapping around their faces when they sleep. Despite their size and strength, these dogs are known for their calm demeanour and loyalty to their owners, a trait that has been crucial for their survival in the extreme conditions of Greenland.

The Role of Sled Dogs in Inuit Culture

Inuit culture is deeply intertwined with the sled dog, which has long been considered a symbol of status and skill. For centuries, sled dogs were essential for hunting and transportation, and the size of a person’s dog team was often a measure of their wealth. A strong, healthy team could mean the difference between life and death in the Arctic, as it allowed hunters to travel long distances to find food and resources.

In traditional Inuit society, sled dogs were also used for their keen sense of smell, helping hunters locate seal-breathing holes in the ice. Their ability to navigate treacherous conditions made them invaluable guides, leading their owners across the frozen landscape. The dogs’ instincts for finding the safest routes through the ice and snow are legendary, and many Inuit still rely on their dogs to navigate difficult terrain today.

Even today, long-line fishermen rely on sled dogs to transport Greenland halibut from the Icefjord to Ilulissat. Despite modern advancements, snowmobiles still can’t fully replace the 2,000-year-old Greenlandic tradition of dog sledding, which remains unmatched for navigating the Arctic terrain.

The bond between the Inuit and their sled dogs goes beyond practicality. These dogs are considered family members, often sharing in the food and shelter of their human companions. The care and training of sledge dogs are passed down through generations, with knowledge of how to properly handle, feed, and work with the dogs being a vital part of Inuit heritage. Today there are strict regulations for keeping sled dogs with every dog belonging to a licensed owner.

Adaptations to the Arctic Environment

Greenland sled dogs are not just physically strong—they are biologically adapted to survive in one of the harshest environments on the planet. Their thick coats and padded paws allow them to endure freezing temperatures and ice-covered landscapes, but their adaptations go deeper than just their physical appearance.

These dogs can efficiently convert fat into energy, allowing them to sustain themselves during long journeys with minimal food. This ability to store and utilise fat is crucial in an environment where food is often scarce, especially during the winter when hunting becomes more difficult.

Their cardiovascular systems are also uniquely adapted to endurance. Greenland sled dogs have a slow but powerful heart rate, which allows them to conserve energy while working for long periods. This is combined with a high pain threshold, enabling them to keep going even when conditions become difficult.

In the cold, liquid water can be hard to come by, and these dogs are capable of surviving on snow alone for hydration. Their bodies are able to process the water from snow without lowering their core temperature, which would be dangerous in such frigid conditions.

Modern Use and Challenges

While the traditional role of sled dogs has changed with the introduction of snowmobiles and other modern technologies, these dogs remain a vital part of life in many parts of Greenland, particularly in the more remote northern regions. Dog sledding is still used as a form of transportation for hunters and fishermen, and the dogs’ role in tourism has grown as visitors from around the world come to experience the thrill of travelling by sledges across the Arctic landscape.

In towns like Ilulissat and Qaanaaq, dog sledging is not just a tourist attraction but a way of life. For many Greenlanders, the sled dog represents a connection to their ancestors and the skills passed down through generations. However, the future of the Greenland sledge dog is uncertain. Climate change is causing the Arctic ice to melt at an unprecedented rate, threatening both the traditional way of life and the habitats that sled dogs and their owners rely on.

With shorter winters and thinner ice, hunting trips are becoming more dangerous, and the need for sled dogs is diminishing in some areas. Additionally, the introduction of snowmobiles has reduced the practical need for dog teams in some communities, although many still prefer the reliability and companionship of their dogs over machines.

Walking through Ilulissat during the summer months, where the dogs rest after a long winter of hard work you will see them across the town. They are gathered in what can only be described as a “dog city”—a small community of dogs tethered to their own spaces, surrounded by wooden shelters and rugged terrain. The pups play in the sunshine, their thick coats glistening in the rain, while their parents watch over them, resting before the snow returns. This is their time to rear their young, to prepare for the endless days of work that lie ahead when winter reclaims the land.

If you are in Greenland and see dogs, remember these are working dogs and not pets. Leave them to their day, resist the urge to pet them and stay a respectful distance away.

The Cultural Importance of Preservation

There are growing efforts to preserve the Greenland sled dog population and the traditional knowledge associated with them. Programmes aimed at educating younger generations about the importance of sledge dogs and initiatives to promote dog sledging tourism are helping to ensure that these remarkable animals do not disappear.

Preservation efforts are not just about saving a breed of dog but about maintaining a way of life. The Greenland sled dog is a living symbol of resilience, a connection to the past that remains relevant in the present. As long as there are people who live in harmony with the land and depend on their dogs for survival, the Greenland sled dog will continue to be an integral part of the Arctic landscape.

Where to See Sled Dogs in the Summer in Ilulissat

During the summer, Ilulissat’s sled dogs enjoy a well-earned rest after the long winter season. While they are not actively pulling sleds during these months, you can still experience the unique culture surrounding these remarkable animals.

Just a short walk from the town centre on the road to the Icefjord Centre, you’ll find a fascinating sight, the “dog city,” where many sled dogs spend the summer months tied near wooden shelters. This is their time to rest, raise pups, and regain their strength in preparation for the colder months ahead.

It’s a striking contrast to their winter working life. In the summer, you’ll see older dogs lounging, while playful puppies tumble over one another. The dog city is a community unto itself, with a gentle hum of life from the dogs, interrupted only by the occasional howl that echoes across the landscape.

Many locals are proud of their dogs and are happy to share stories about their experiences raising and working with them. It’s a chance to see a more intimate side of the sled dog culture, removed from the high-adrenaline work of winter sledging.

Sled Dog Experiences in the Winter

Winter in Ilulissat transforms the landscape into a vast, frozen wonderland where the sled dogs thrive. This is the time when you can truly witness the power, endurance, and spirit of these Arctic animals as they race across the snow-covered fjords and frozen sea ice.

One of the most authentic experiences you can have in Ilulissat is joining a dog sledging tour. These tours, often led by experienced local mushers, take you out into the wilderness, where the sound of the sledge runners cutting through the snow and the rhythmic panting of the dogs are the only things breaking the silence.

Riding with a dog sledge team is a visceral way to experience Greenland’s rugged landscape. The bond between the musher and the dogs is palpable, as the dogs respond to the subtle commands and encouragements of their driver.

Most tours will take you through the Ilulissat Icefjord, offering breathtaking views of towering icebergs and endless snowy plains. Depending on the time of year, you might even catch a glimpse of the northern lights dancing overhead, adding a magical element to your adventure.

How to Photograph Sled Dogs

Photographing Greenland sled dogs, whether in the quiet of summer or the dynamic energy of winter, offers unique challenges and rewards. These animals are not only beautiful but also full of personality, making them compelling subjects for any photographer.

Summer photography tips

In the summer months, the calm and relaxed demeanour of the sled dogs allows for more intimate, portrait-style photography. The bright Arctic light can be harsh, so aim to shoot during the softer early morning or late evening light, known as the “golden hours.” Capture the contrasts between the dogs lounging in the sun, the playful interactions between the pups, and the rugged surroundings of Ilulissat’s dog city.

Focus on close-up shots to highlight the dogs’ thick fur, expressive eyes, and their resting postures. The dogs’ unique individuality shines during these quieter months, making it the perfect time to capture more personal, emotional images. A low aperture setting will help blur the background and bring attention to the subject, creating more dramatic portraits.

Winter photography tips

Photographing sled dogs in action during the winter requires a different approach. The movement and energy of a sled dog team can be difficult to capture, but with some preparation, you can get striking, dynamic images.

Fast shutter speeds are essential for freezing the motion of the dogs as they run. Set your camera to burst mode to capture multiple frames in quick succession, increasing your chances of getting that perfect moment where all the dogs are in sync, pulling together against the stunning Arctic backdrop.

If you’re lucky enough to be photographing sled dogs at dawn or dusk, you’ll have the advantage of soft, diffused light. In these conditions, focus on capturing the silhouettes of the dogs against the ice and snow.

For nighttime photography, especially when shooting under the northern lights, use a tripod and a longer exposure to capture the movement of the dogs with the natural beauty of the Greenland sky above them.

General tips

When photographing sled dogs, always keep a respectful distance. These are working animals, and their safety and well-being come first. Many of the dogs are tethered in their resting areas during the summer, but in the winter, they are often focused on the job at hand. Avoid startling or distracting them while they are running or resting.

Finally, be patient. Sled dogs are full of energy, especially during the winter months, and it can take time to capture the perfect shot. Observe their behavior, wait for moments of calm or excitement, and be ready to react quickly.