How to reach the Eqi Glacier, Greenland

There is something profoundly humbling about venturing into the wild, a sensation that hits hardest as you set off from Ilulissat’s harbour, bound for the vast, shimmering expanse of Eqi Glacier. Perched on the cusp of the Arctic Circle, Eqip Sermia is an unfolding story of nature’s raw, unpredictable beauty, shaped by the relentless forces of ice and time.

The Journey Begins: From Ilulissat to Eqi Glacier

Leaving the bustle of Ilulissat behind, the boat hums gently, slicing through the icy waters of Disko Bay. As the town fades into the distance the landscape transforms.

Travelling north along the coast from Ilulissat, the boat sails past Bredebugt, the village of Oqaatsut and the large fjord system Paakitsoq before heading through Ataa Sound to the glacier.

Rugged cliffs give way to deep fjords and colossal icebergs drift past like floating sculptures. Some tower above the boat, their sharp blue hues contrasting starkly against the dark, almost metallic water, while others, worn by the wind and waves, reveal intricate arches and jagged ridges.

The journey takes around three hours, but time seems to stretch, lost in the hypnotic rhythm of the waves and the subtle dance of Arctic light. It’s an expedition that invites you to slow down, observe the shifting landscape and feel the weight of isolation. This is a place where the world seems bigger, where nature holds sway, and where the only sounds are the occasional crack of ice, tumbling waterfalls or the call of distant seabirds.

Wildlife Encounters on the Water

The journey to Eqi Glacier is as much about what lies along the way as the glacier itself. Disko Bay teems with life including whales, seals and seabirds. If you’re lucky you may see a humpback whale in the distance. Its dark, massive form breaks the surface with an elegance only nature can conjure. Often, they surface close to the boat, their blows echoing across the still air before diving deep, leaving only a slick of water in their wake.

Glaucous gulls dominate the scene as the boat moves closer to the glacier. They follow closely, wheeling in the sky and swooping down to feed on the nutrient-rich churn created by the boat’s wake, much like gulls trailing behind a fishing vessel. Their sharp calls echo across the fjord, and their pale wings stand out contrasting against the dark water. As they dive and circle, their presence becomes a constant companion on the journey, adding to the wild, untamed feel of the landscape.

The entire journey feels like a whispered conversation between land, sea, and sky with everything connected in a fragile, beautiful balance.

Approaching Eqi: The First Glimpse of the Glacier

As the boat draws nearer to Eqi, the temperature drops subtly, and the air grows heavier with the scent of brine and ice. When the glacier first comes into view, all you see is a vast wall of ancient ice – deep blue and white, jagged and imposing. There’s a moment, as you approach, where everything feels still as if the landscape is holding its breath.

And then, without warning, there is a rumble, followed by a deep, resonant roar as a chunk of the glacier breaks free, crashing into the sea below. This is calving, the glacier’s way of shedding its mass, and it’s both thrilling and humbling to witness. The resulting wave ripples outward, rocking the boat gently as smaller ice fragments float by. Each calving event feels like a reminder of the glacier’s slow, inexorable movement as a frozen river tumbling towards the sea.

The Glacier Up Close

Eqi is one of the few glaciers in the world that is easily accessible by boat, and getting this close to such a force of nature is a rare privilege. The boat lingers in the icy waters, giving you time to absorb the scene, the colours, the textures and the sheer scale. The glacier’s face stretches for just over 3 kilometres, and its towering ice cliffs rise to 200 meters high, dwarfing everything around it. When you are close to the glacier scale is difficult to comprehend. The boat will stay over a kilometre away but it feels within touching distance. It is not until you see the boat against the glacier from a distance that the sheer scale becomes a reality.

There’s a strange, almost eerie silence here, punctuated only by the occasional creak or groan of the glacier, as if it’s alive, shifting beneath the weight of its immense mass. The water around the boat is peppered with small icebergs and chunks of ice, some crystal clear, others a brilliant blue, glowing softly in the pale Arctic light.

Photography Tips: Capturing the Moment

For photographers, Eqi Glacier offers a feast for the senses. The contrast between the glacier’s ice, the dark water, and the surrounding cliffs creates dramatic compositions. Wide-angle lenses are perfect for capturing the scene’s grandeur, while a telephoto lens will help you zoom in on the intricate details. Look for the cracks in the ice, the ridges and the interplay of light and shadow.

Timing is crucial when photographing Eqi Glacier. The soft, low light of early mornings or late evenings beautifully enhances the ice’s textures and casts a golden glow across the landscape. In the early morning mist will hang over the glacier adding another dimension to the landscape. To witness these magical moments staying at Glacier Lodge Eqi is essential, as the boat typically arrives around midday. The unpredictability of calving events offers fleeting moments of drama. Having your camera ready is essential, but so too is simply pausing to experience the moment without distraction

The Return: Reflecting on the Journey

The return trip to Ilulissat feels quieter and more introspective. The landscape, which felt vast and untouchable on the way out, now seems familiar, like an old friend. There’s a sense of having glimpsed something extraordinary, something few people will ever see, and it lingers long after the boat pulls back into Ilulissat’s harbour.

As you disembark, the hum of everyday life slowly returns, but a part of you remains with the glacier, the icebergs and the wild and untamed beauty of Greenland’s Arctic frontier. The journey to Eqi Glacier is more than just a trip; it’s an encounter with a landscape shaped by time, isolation, and the enduring power of nature.

Know before you go

The journey to Eqi starts in Ilulissat on the northwest coast of Greenland. Boat trips run from June to September and can be booked through Disko Line Explorer who run the boats. The trip takes around 6 hours and includes lunch. The boat stops at Port Victor to drop off and pick up guests and resupply the Glacier Lodge, but day visitors stay on the boat.