Winter in Arctic Finland
Winter in Finland is the perfect escape with unique landscapes and big skies. It is the perfect place for winter adventures, reindeer, and huskies as well as learning about local traditions.
The Finnish Arctic region (Lapland) is a vast area in the north of Finland, bordered by Russia in the east, Sweden to the west and Norway in the far north. Home to 190000 reindeer, many roaming free it is a wilderness that is easy to reach but hard to leave.
From Kuusamo, there are two national parks that are completely different, but beautiful in their own right – Oulanka National Park and Riisitunturi National Park.
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Into the Arctic
Flying into Kuusamo, the landscape is white with small black pin-prick trees. Lakes are expanses of white while rivers are dark, snaking through the trees lining the lakes. The sun is barely clipping the horizon, perpetual sunset and inky darkness are the only two states that this landscape sees in the deep winter months.
Passing the ski resort of Ruka, the road passes into a dark forested area. The surface is compacted ice and the trees hang heavy with snow. Twilight is soon accelerating and as we arrive at the small cabins on the shore of the lake darkness engulfs the forest for another night.
This landscape couldn’t be further from the neon-lit ski slopes just 25km to the southwest.
Things to do in winter at Riisitunturi National Park
Riisitunturi National Park is high with exposed fells, vast skies and far-reaching views. The snow-crowned spruce trees of Riisitunturi are unique and distinctive, a result of the condensed frost building up on the trees over the winter months. The spruce trees bow under the weight of the snow and frost taking on surreal shapes and patterns that remain until the spring melts arrive.
Drive huskies onto the high fells
A short distance southwest of Oulanka National Park is Riisitunturi National Park. This area starts as woodland but as the trails head upward, the trees thin and you find yourself on the high fells. These have spruce trees bending under the weight of their snow, known as ‘tykky’ and far-reaching views. Driving a team of dogs is a fantastic way to explore this unique almost Martian landscape.
See the Northern Lights
Whilst the aurora borealis is not the main reason for visiting this remote landscape, it certainly is an added bonus. In the winter months when the sky is dark, there is a chance that the northern lights will appear over Oulanka National Park and Riisitunturi National Park. Finding an open space with clear views of the sky and waiting can provide amazing memories of winter nights. If you are feeling brave you can spend the day building a quincy, a snow dome and spend a night under the stars tucked up in reindeer skins as the lights dance above you.
Unique things to do in Oulanka National Park
Oulanka National Park is composed of woodlands and lakes with raging rivers following the path of the ancient glaciers. Some of the highest waterfalls in Finland are found in Oulanka crossed by hanging bridges and small tracks. An experience when surrounded by steaming water and iced pathways.
Snowshoe and Cross Country Ski
Oulanka National Park has well-laid-out trails for exploring the woodland and lakes with either snowshoes or skis once the snows arrive. They are clearly marked from the visitor’s centre and you are instantly taken into a Narnia-like world. There is a range of routes that vary from easy to technical. There really is something for everyone. After a day out in the forest, there is nothing better than returning to a sauna and hot tub under the stars.
Jyrävänjärvi Lake is ideal for winter skiing, the summer islands becoming the focus of the vast snowy expanse as winter takes hold. The island trees that stand isolated in the summer months, only reached by kayak become heavy with snow in the winter months and reachable by ski. During the arctic winter, the sun barely makes it over the horizon making the sky glow in every shade of orange. The days are filled with golden light dancing over the treetops and the fresh snow.
Visit Myllykoski Mill and the Rapids
A short walk through the forest from Basecamp Oulanka is Myllykoski Mill. This mill sits on the edge of the rapids as the river thunders by. A suspension bridge crosses the river just downstream from the mill and gives stunning views of the mill, steaming in the rising mist of the river. This mill is well known, an iconic landmark of Finland. Despite this it is quiet and there is time to explore the surrounding forest trails and paths.
Walk to Castle Rocks and Jyrävä
Within the relatively short daylight hours, it is possible to hike out to one of the highest waterfalls in Finland, Jyrävä. The route takes you through the woodland where the tracks of moose, reindeer and hares can be seen. The waterfall is frozen in the winter months, a jumble of ice and snow where the rocks and water should be.
Walking through the snow-filled forest was like a winter dream. During the whole hike, the noise of the river Kitka is always there and the views are perfect.
Linnakallio, Castle Rocks is a wall of rock standing isolated on the banks of the river with a steep climb away from the river at the Jyrävä Waterfall back up to the tracks and away from Castle Rocks.
This 9-metre free-fall waterfall is frozen in the winter months. The Jyrävänkoski Rapids are noisy even with the frozen waterfall and their noise could be heard permeating the forest long after you leave the river behind. The return walk is as beautiful as the trek out.
Visit a Traditional Reindeer Farm
Near to Ruka is Palosaari Reindeer Farm. This is a traditional farm, run by a Sami family who use traditional methods to farm these docile and gentle creatures. Spending time with the family, seeing how they care for these animals and the multiple uses for them is a true insight into the local area.
It was hard to think that these docile creatures were actually farmed. Their meat, skins and antlers are all useful to the Sami people with everything including soap being made. Beautifully carved tools, warm rugs and delicious sausages cooked over an open fire were explained. It was an interesting adventure into a whole different way of life.
Reindeer calve in May and the calves are slaughtered in October in a similar way to lambs at just 5 months old. Heading into the paddock the reindeer are keen for lichen. Hand-feeding this little delicacy is a hazardous occupation. Antlers enthusiastically nudge towards eyes, still attached to the oblivious reindeer it is a game of duck and dodge.
These reindeer are obviously loved by the farmers. Their care is their livelihood and despite the temperatures, it is clear to see the relationship between these gentle creatures and their owners.
Getting to Oulanka National Park and Riisitunturi National Park
These two national parks can be reached by road from Kuusamo airport via the ski resort of Ruka. There are regular buses or transfers that can be arranged by Basecamp Oulanka if you are staying with them.
Staying at Basecamp Oulanka
There are a number of options for staying in these national parks but we loved the convenience and atmosphere of Basecamp Oulanka. Situated just under 25km from Ruka and accessed by road it is an easy and convenient base for exploring the area.
If you would rather be away from the Basecamp there are a small number of lakeside chalets that are available to rent through the year.
Options in Riisitunturi National Park are more limited with only a few places to stay on the boundary of the park.
Inspiration for visiting Oulanka National Park and Riisitunturi National Park
Oulanka National Park and Riisitunturi National Park are both ideal as an escape to a winter wonderland. They are not commercialised in any way. You need to be self-sufficient and plan ahead to make the most of your time in this wilderness, but the planning will pay off with surreal landscapes and magical memories.
