Lava and moss – The lava fields of Iceland

The volcanoes of Iceland are well known and are visible as you explore the landscape. Equally present are the moss-covered lava fields, but these are often overlooked for the glaciers and steaming fumaroles. They lay in dark, sprawling fields across the barren landscape.

Like the volcanoes in Iceland, the lava fields in Iceland vary in age. Some are ancient while others are incredibly new.

The largest in Iceland is Eldhraun which was formed when Laki erupted in the 18th century. Located close to the village of Kirkjubæjarklaustur, the original lava flowed down the riverbed of the Skaftá River and down into the low-lying farmlands of Meðalland and today it is a mass of jumbled lava and moss.

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Lava fields in Iceland

There are a number of lava fields in Iceland which are all slightly different.

There are two main types of lava fields in Iceland: pahoehoe and aa. Pahoehoe lava is smooth and ropey, while aa lava is rough and blocky. The type of lava field that forms depends on the composition of the magma and the rate of eruption.

Map of lava fields in Iceland

This map shows the location of some of the lava fields in Iceland. There are many more, but most are difficult to reach.

Reykjanes Peninsula

Without realising it, many people will see their first lava field on the way from the airport towards Reykjavík. The whole area is one large lava field including the Blue Lagoon and makes for a great road trip if your time in Iceland is limited.

It is possible to combine the Blue Lagoon with a visit to the lava fields and geothermal areas on the peninsula giving a small taste of Iceland.

There have been multiple eruptions along this small peninsula over thousands of years so relatively new lava fields can be found running into older lava fields with moss and trees establishing themselves. Four active volcanic systems are found in the area and these continue to grumble today.

Close to Reykjanes Lighthouse on the southern-most tip, there is a large area of cliffs that are made up of a range of types of lava which have been exposed by the action of the waves which is completely different to the vast expanses of lava seen elsewhere.

• Valahnúkamöl, off Road 425
• Google Maps
• The lava here can be seen from the parking area which is close to the lighthouse.

Fagradalsfjall Eruption

The newest lava fields in Iceland are a short distance from Grindavík on the south coast of the Reykjanes Peninsula.

Three eruptions, the first in 2021 and the second smaller eruption in 2022 have resulted in the Fagradalsjall and Meradalir lava fields. In 2023 there was a third smaller eruption at Litli-Hrútur, close to Fagradalsjall.

A hike to the viewing points takes you past steaming lava fields and the currently quiet craters. It is a long 12km hike but the landscapes are stunning and worth the effort.

• Off Road 427, east of Grindavík
• Google Maps
• This is new lava and should not be stood on. Stay on the paths and ensure you check the weather for your safety.

Eldhraun

This is the largest lava field in Iceland and covers 565 km² of lava. It was formed between 1783 and 1784 when the Laki fissure and the adjoining Grímsvötn volcano erupted.

This was one of the biggest volcanic eruptions since the ice age and the effects were experienced around the world with weird weather and failed crops.

Today the Eldhraun lava field is softened by the moss that grows across its rough surface and trees are attempting to talk a hold. It can be seen from Ring Road 1 before reaching the turning to Fjaðrárgljúfur.

There is a clearly marked parking area close to the road and from here marked paths cross the lava field. Make sure you stay on the paths and follow the marked route.

• Off Road 1, northeast of Vík
• Google Maps
• The parking area is close to the lava fields with marked trails. Do not stray from the paths in these areas

Leirhnjukur

This lava field is part of the Krafla lava fields, formed after the eruptions in 1720 and more recently from 1975 through to 1984. These lava fields stretch for 36km and are still steaming in places.

As soon as you leave the parking area huge amounts of lava can be seen. As it is so new there is very little vegetation although some small plants and mosses are starting to emerge.

This is one of the areas in Iceland where you need to stick to the path. Hot pools as well as steaming vents are dotted across the landscape.

• Off Road 1, close to Krafla Power Station
• Google Maps
• There are a number of lava fields and geothermal areas around Krafla

Dimmuborgir

Close to Leirhnjukur on the shore of Lake Mývatn is Dimmuborgir. This is a landscape of huge lava peaks that were formed 2300 years ago as lava tubes above a lake.

What we see today is the effects of the steam trapped between the surface of the lake and the lava below forming bubbles and pillars of steam.

It is steeped in folklore with Grýla, a half-troll, half-ogre and her husband Leppalúði living in Dimmuborgir with their thirteen sons.

These sons are now known as the ‘Icelandic Santa Clauses’ or Yule Lads and come to homes to terrorise people in the lead-up to Christmas.

Dimmuborgir is very busy with a number of walking paths, guided tours and a restaurant.

• Off road 848 around Lake Mývatn
• Google Maps
• There is a large parking area, restaurant and visitors centre

Holuhraun

Holuhraun is a large lava field north of Vatnajökull glacier in Iceland’s Highlands. It is very new with the most recent eruptions lasting between August 2014 and February 2015.

Huge fountains of lava were seen from the 7km long fissure that opened up from the Bárðarbunga volcano.

The lava field covers 85 km² and is crossed by the F905 and F910 to Askja and Dreki. It has a wide range of lava from small rocks to giant smooth pillows that appear to have formed in different areas. The road across the lava field is rough and can only be attempted in good weather in a 4WD vehicle.

• Road F910 crosses this lava field towards Dreki
• Google Maps
• This road is rough and only open for a few weeks each year.

Berserkjahraun

Berserkjahraun is between 3000 and 4000 years old and is tucked away in a corner of the Snæsfellsnes Peninsular between the towns of Stykkishólmur and Grundarfjörður just off Route 54.

As with many places it is steeped in folklore and this area is part of the Icelandic Eyrbyggia Saga. Unlike other stories, excavation of the area revealed the remains of two large men, adding some weight to the story of the two fighting Berserkers and the farmer’s daughter.

This lava field has large jagged boulders which are covered in moss set against the surrounding mountains.

• On Road 54 close to Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum
• Google Maps
• There are a number of small parking areas but nothing formal so ensure you are safely parked

Hallmundarhraun

The lava field is located northeast of Reykholt and gets its name from Hallmundur who according to Gretti’s Saga lived in this area.

This large lava field was formed when the volcanoes under the Langjökull glacier erupted in 930 AD. It covers 200 km² in area and is over 50km long and 7km wide.

The eruption is documented in the ancient song called Hallmundarkvida or Poem of Hallmundu which provides details of how things happened.

The lava field has a number of unique features including Hraunfossar waterfall and the Viðgelmir lava tube.

This area forms the Silver Circle and can be completed in a day from Reykjavík or as part of a tour.

• Off Road 518 close to Húsafell
• Google Maps
• This lava field is best visited while taking a tour of Viðgelmir lava tube

Hraunfossar

Hraunfossar is a unique waterfall in Iceland and looks amazing, especially in the autumn when the trees are turning. The waterfalls are made up of small rivulets flowing out of the Hallmundarhraun and into the Hvítá River. It covers approximately 900m of the river and has a large viewing area and walking trails.

Viðgelmir Lava Tube

Viðgelmir lava tube is the second longest known lave tube in Iceland and stretches for 1585 metres with an average height of 7 metres. It is located in the centre of the lava field about 30km from the craters and once in the cave you are about 25 metres below the surface of the lava field.

Over the winter months, the cave entrance fills with snow and ice and during colder periods this may remain, blocking the cave.

Inside the cave are a number of chambers and narrow passes, all with different textures and appearances depending on the temperature of the lava at different times of the eruption.

You can visit the lava tube on a guided tour during the summer months which takes you deep into the lava field.

Westman Islands

The Westman Islands are some of the newest volcanic islands in the whole of Iceland with Surtsey Island appearing in 1963.

Heimaey, the largest island experienced a large volcanic eruption from Eldfell Mountain in 1973. The eruption led to a large lava flow which engulfed part of the town destroying homes. This lava field can still be seen, bright red and yellow above the town.

• The trail starts close to Vestmannaeyjabær, the main town on Heimaey
• Google Maps
• The lava fields extend into town so it is possible to see lava without a massive hike

Looking after the Icelandic moss and lava fields

The moss that grows in Iceland forms part of a fragile ecosystem. There are over 600 different types of moss growing in Iceland and many can survive the sub-zero temperatures that are common in the winter months and thrive in the cool damp conditions.

Why can you not walk on the moss or lava fields in Iceland?

Despite their resilience care has to be taken when visiting the lava fields. Following the path or road is essential to prevent damage. Once driven or walked on, the lava field will hold the tyre marks and damage for long periods of time.

In the north around Krafla, the lava fields are within an area of geothermal activity and have steaming vents and hot pools in close proximity. If there are barriers or boardwalks, make sure you stick to them.

Naming lava fields

In Icelandic ‘Hraun’ means lava, so anytime you see this in the name of a place there is a chance that you will encounter lava.
Examples include
Eldhraun – Fire (Eld) Lava (Hraun)
Hraunfossar – Lava (Hraun) Waterfalls (Fossar)

Unique plants and animals that live in lava fields

While the lava fields look barren and lifeless, over time they will slowly become home to a range of wildflowers and wildlife.

• Icelandic moss is a slow-growing lichen that covers many lava fields in Iceland. it is extremely hardy given the conditions it has to survive in but is at the same time easily damaged by human activities.
• Lava birch is a type of birch tree that is well-adapted to growing in lava fields.
• Arctic foxes can often be seen crossing the lava fields. Although rare the white arctic fox will show up well against the black lava. Shortly after the eruptions at Fagradalsjall, an arctic fox was seen on a number of occasions close to the new lava field.
• Puffins nest along the coast and many of their nesting areas are on ancient lava fields.

Photographing Icelandic Lava Fields

Let me start with the easy answer here – photographing lava fields is a nightmare as you can see from my less than amazing attempts! They are, by their very nature flat and featureless and not very good to photograph.

If you have the means then aerial landscape photographs of lava fields can be amazing. These show the rivers against the lava as well as the textures and features of the landscape.

For everyone else without a plane or drone, the best way to capture these landscapes is to look more intimately. Pick out individual features. Rocks, collections of pebbles or the plants that grow between the boulders are much more interesting than an endless expanse of lava.

The black of the lava against an often grey sky can also confuse your camera. I have written about tone and the camera sensor and lava can confuse your camera completely.

As a basic guide, you need to make your camera think that the black lava is blacker than it really is so you can override its algorithm and make the black appear black. This can be done by adjusting the exposure compensation before you take your photograph. This may appear as EV on the dials or settings on your camera. You may need to experiment a little to figure out exactly how much compensation is needed.

Tips for visiting lava fields in Iceland

• Be aware of the dangers associated with lava fields. Lava fields can be sharp and uneven, and they can also be home to dangerous gases.
• New lava fields may look cool, but beneath the surface crust, the lava will still be hot and dangerous.
• Do not walk on lava fields at any time. Always stay on the path.
• Wear appropriate clothing and footwear. When visiting a lava field, it is important to wear sturdy shoes that can protect your feet from sharp rocks and lava.
• Bring plenty of water and snacks. Lava fields can be hot and dry, so it is important to stay hydrated and fueled.
• Be respectful of the environment. Do not leave any litter behind, and do not disturb the plants or animals that live in the lava field.

Where to learn more about Icelandic lava fields

If you only have a short period of time in Iceland and want to learn more, but do not want to adventure out to the lava fields then there are two places where you can learn more about lava. If you are heading out to the lava fields without a guide make sure you check for current safety information and weather.

Safety information

Before you explore any volcanic areas in Iceland make sure you check the current status of the area. Safetravel.is is the best website that provides current information and is run by ICE-SAR — The Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue.

You can also find current information about earthquakes and current safety warnings at the Icelandic Met Office website Vedur.is

Perlan

Perlan is a prominent landmark in Reykjavík where you can learn about the country’s most famous volcanoes, their eruptions, and their impact on the landscape. The museum is a fantastic place to learn more about the geology and landscapes in Iceland in general and is a good option when the weather is not so good.

Book your Perlan tickets

Lava show in Vík

This interactive museum combines state-of-the-art technology with captivating displays to offer a really good understanding of Iceland’s volcanic and geological history. Through 4D experiences including flowing lava, interactive exhibits, and informative presentations, the Lava Centre brings the dramatic volcanic forces to life.

Plan your visit to the Lava Show

Eldheimar Museum, Heimaey

Eldheimar Museum, located in the town of Vestmannaeyjar, offers a unique and immersive experience centred around the volcanic eruption of Eldfell in 1973. Through a combination of multimedia exhibits, personal stories, and preserved houses buried by volcanic ash, Eldheimar Museum allows visitors to witness the impact of the eruption on the local community.

Iceland lava field facts

Which lava fields are closest to Reykjavík?

The closest lava fields to Reykjavik are the Reykjanes Peninsula lava fields and the Eldhraun lava fields. The Reykjanes Peninsula lava fields are located just a short drive from Reykjavik, and the Eldhraun lava field is located about two hours from Reykjavik.

How are lava fields formed in Iceland?

Iceland is located on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are moving apart. This movement creates fissures in the Earth’s crust, through which magma can rise to the surface. When magma erupts from a volcano, it can flow over the ground, forming lava fields.

What are the different types of lava fields in Iceland?

There are two main types of lava fields in Iceland: pahoehoe and aa. Pahoehoe lava is smooth and ropey, while aa lava is rough and blocky. The type of lava field that forms depends on the composition of the magma and the rate of eruption.

What is the largest lava field in Iceland?

The largest lava field in Iceland is the Eldhraun lava field. It was formed during a massive eruption in the 9th century and covers an area of over 565 square kilometres.

How old are the lava fields in Iceland?

The age of the lava fields in Iceland varies depending on the region. Some lava fields are millions of years old, while others are only a few decades old. For example, the Eldhraun lava field is one of the oldest lava fields in Iceland, dating back to the 9th century. The Fagradalsfjall lava field, on the other hand, is one of the newest lava fields in Iceland, having erupted in 2021, 2022 and 2023.

Where are the active lava fields in Iceland?

The most active lava fields in Iceland are located on the Reykjanes Peninsula and in the North Iceland Volcanic Zone. The Reykjanes Peninsula lava fields have been erupting regularly since 2021, and the North Iceland Volcanic Zone is home to several active volcanoes, including Krafla and Bárðarbunga.

What is the green moss in Iceland?

The green moss in Iceland is called Icelandic moss. It is a type of lichen that is found in many parts of the world, but it is particularly abundant in Iceland. Icelandic moss is known for its slow growth rate, and it can take hundreds of years for a single patch of moss to grow.

Can you walk on the lava fields in Iceland?

Whether or not you can walk on the lava fields in Iceland depends on the age and condition of the lava field and the environmental impact that walking in the area would have. Some lava fields are too young or too unstable to walk on, while others are safe to explore. It is important to do your research and check with a local guide before attempting to walk on any lava field. If you are unsure, then don’t walk on the lava field.

Where can I find lava fields in Iceland?

Lava fields can be found all over Iceland, but some of the most notable ones include:

• Eldhraun lava field in South Iceland
• Reykjanes Peninsula lava fields in Southwest Iceland
• Fagradalsfjall lava field in Southwest Iceland
• Leirhnjúkur lava field in North Iceland
• Dimmuborgir lava field in North Iceland
• Berserkjahraun lava field in South Iceland
• Londrangar lava field in South Iceland

Planning a road trip to Iceland? Read all my Iceland Travel Guides