The Arctic fox: A symbol of Iceland’s wild beauty
The Arctic fox (Vulpes lagopus) makes the remote and isolated Hornstrandir Peninsula its home. This small corner of northwestern Iceland is far from the hustle and bustle of tourists, even more so in the middle of winter.
This is perfect for the Arctic fox to hunt along the shoreline in the winter months when the bird cliffs are devoid of life and the summer meadows are covered in deep snow drifts that reach to the sea.
While travel to the Westfjords of Iceland is an adventure in itself, to make this journey in the winter and travel beyond the relative security of Ísafjörður takes a special sort of madness and a willingness to expect wild weather, a change of plans and lengthy delays.
Searching for Arctic foxes in Iceland
Even in the middle of an Arctic winter, it is possible to encounter one of the most elusive mammals in Iceland.
These small Arctic foxes are the only native mammals in Iceland and survive the elements that this remote island throws at them. Their only predator is man and the human influence on their landscape has an increasing impact on this small creature.
The weather plays a massive part in their lives with the brutal winter months making life a cold and exposed existence, fighting against the never-ending wind and deep snow.
Arctic fox size
The Arctic fox is much smaller than it appears. They weigh between 3.2kg and 4.5kg, the average size of a toy poodle or a miniature schnauzer. The males are larger than the females and both sexes are heavier in the winter months.
Their perceived size comes from their large coat and equally large tail that increases in the winter months. The Arctic fox has shorter limbs, body and neck compared to a red fox and these appear even shorter with their dense winter coat. In winter their small rounded ears and neck almost disappear into a mass of fluff.
Arctic fox coat
The Arctic fox relies on its thick fur to protect it from the relentless winter weather. It has one of the best-insulated furs in the animal kingdom and is made up of multiple layers.
The fur closest to the skin is fine and short, maintaining a constant layer of air that is warmed. The outer layer is known as wind hair and whilst not dense, provides protection to the inner layer of hair forming a protection from the snow and rain.
The fur is thickest in the middle of winter and maintains the core temperature of the fox even in temperatures as low as -35OC. As the temperature drops their metabolic rate increases using stored fat for heat production. This means of survival relies on them eating well through the summer and early autumn and being in good condition going into the winter months.
They also have furry pads on their feet which provide insulation and act as in-built snowshoes. Their circulatory system is also modified allowing cooled blood returning to the heart to be warmed by warm blood in the arteries heading towards the limbs.
Arctic fox colours
There are two main colour morphs in Arctic foxes – white and blue (which are brown all year round).
White is far more common as it provides better camouflage on snow-covered landscapes where the foxes hunt lemmings and voles.
However where the Arctic foxes forage amongst seaweed and rocks on the beach(as they do in Hornstrandir) they are much more likely to be blue morph and a shade of brown all year round. This colouration means they are hidden as they forage along the shoreline.
In the Westfjords of Iceland, the majority of Arctic foxes are blue morph, it’s very rare to see a white Arctic fox. In other parts of Iceland, there are more white Arctic foxes but they are more reclusive and far more uncommon. They are also still outnumbered by blue morph foxes.
Arctic fox diet
In the winter months, the Arctic foxes will hunt along the shoreline. They will feed on anything they find from fish to sea urchins. They may also hunt out small rodents that may be under the snow. The diet is sparse and when storms come in they still have to head out to feed.
In the summer months, food is far more plentiful and they hunt along the bird cliffs as well as the shoreline. Sea birds including puffins and shellfish make up the majority of their diet.
About Hornstrandir Nature Reserve
Hornstrandir Nature Reserves is an isolated peninsula of land covering 580 km2. To the south of the nature reserve is the Drangjökull glacier, much smaller than the large glaciers that are found in the south of Iceland. It is a diverse landscape with deep fjords, mountains and abandoned settlements.
The nature reserve was established in 1975 long after the final residents left in 1952. Over the years the descendants of the farmers have returned to restore their homes as summer retreats. It is the only area in Iceland where Arctic foxes cannot be hunted. This protection has led to a healthy increase in numbers and a lack of fear in the foxes towards humans.
There is no road access to Hornstrandir even during the summer months. On the east coast from Hólmavík, the road runs out north of the small fishing village of Djúpavík. The west coast has a road that ends at the small village of Tirðilmýri. Beyond this, the only access is by boat or foot.
There are two small coastal settlements at Hesteyri and Aðalvík that are accessible in the summer months by boat from Ísafjörður and in the winter the only place to make a base is at Kvíar Lodge.
Kvíar Lodge makes a winter of searching for Arctic foxes something special. It is simple but cosy and can only be reached by boat with Borea Adventures. There is minimal internet, and power for a short while each day, but a lovely homely feel and amazing hosts. The journey by boat and zodiac with food, oil and everything needed for your stay just adds to the mind-blowing experience.
This lack of access and limited visitors makes it the perfect home for wildlife. The Hornbjarg bird cliffs at the eastern end of the bay at Hornvík are alive in the summer months with millions of birds while the Arctic foxes can be seen in the nature reserve year-round.
The reality of looking for arctic foxes in Iceland
The majority of the time, spotting an Arctic fox in Iceland is pure chance. They may be seen high on a hillside in the Snæfellsnes Peninsula or sneaking across the lava fields close to Grindavík.
It is believed that there are about 10000 Arctic foxes across the country with the majority living around Hornstrandir and the Westfjords. This makes looking for them a real search.
The foxes have territories that local guides know and the only way to guarantee seeing the foxes is to spend time in their world, waiting for them to pass by.
Taking time to sit and wait, blending into their landscape will result in magical encounters as the foxes will feel safe and become inquisitive. They will take their time to build trust but once they are ready they will become confident and come closer.
You may see the foxes in the distance, traversing the mountainside but it may be a few hours before they have worked along the shoreline searching for food so patience is essential. They may have their fill and return to their den without passing the house or continue along the shoreline hidden from view and appear to vanish.
As with anything in Iceland looking for Arctic foxes is weather dependent. Winter storms pass through and the nature reserve is cut off from the outside world. The foxes continue to search for food as the storm eases, but will always have to head out eventually.
How to learn more about Arctic foxes in Iceland
In the summer months, it is possible to learn more about Arctic foxes and maybe even see a fox up close. In Súðavík, close to Ísafjörður in the Westfjords is the Arctic Fox Centre. This is a small museum and rescue centre housed in the oldest house in the village. It is the heart of Arctic fox research in Iceland.
Conservation status of Arctic foxes
As of the last assessment in September 2021, the conservation status of Arctic foxes in Iceland was categorized as “Least Concern” by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN). This designation implies that the population of Arctic foxes in Iceland was not considered to be under immediate threat of extinction.
Arctic foxes have successfully adapted to the challenging environmental conditions of Iceland, predominantly residing in the wild. Their population dynamics are influenced by several ecological factors, including food availability, disease prevalence, and fluctuations in climatic conditions.
Conservation efforts in Iceland have primarily focused on safeguarding the natural habitat of Arctic foxes, monitoring their population trends, and conducting research on their behaviour and ecological interactions. It is essential to note that the conservation status of wildlife populations can evolve over time due to various environmental and anthropogenic factors. For the most current information regarding the conservation status of Arctic foxes in Iceland, it is recommended to consult local conservation organizations, government agencies, or the official IUCN website.
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