Wild stays – Glacier Lodge Eqi

Glacier Lodge Eqi is one of those places that feels completely unreal while you’re there and it is not until you leave that you can process the experience and realise just how amazing it was.

Imagine how it feels stirring in the darkness to the deep rumble of ice cracking and calving outside your cabin or waking up to views across a deep turquoise ice-filled fjord towards the glacier edge.

Glacier Lodge Eqi makes this daydream a reality.

Location

Glacier Lodge Eqi is situated on the edge of a cliff overlooking Eqi Glacier, offering uninterrupted views of the calving ice. The isolation of the lodge allows for a quiet, undisturbed experience, with no towns nearby.

The three hour journey by boat from the small town of Ilulissat adds to the isolation. There are no cruise ships, day trippers or party lights. It’s a location designed for those looking to truly disconnect and immerse themselves in Greenland’s raw, natural beauty.

A Brief History of Port Victor

Port Victor where Glacier Lodge Eqi is now based was a key base for Arctic exploration during the early 20th century with expeditions led by French explorer Paul-Émile Victor. His team used the area to conduct groundbreaking research on the Greenland ice sheet, focusing on its movements, structure, and impact on the broader climate system.

The glacier’s dynamic calving events provided crucial data for understanding glacial behaviour. Victor’s work laid the foundation for modern glaciology, with Port Victor serving as a launch point for numerous expeditions aimed at mapping the polar regions and studying Arctic ecosystems.

The hike to the Ice Sheet follows Paul-Émile Victor’s tracks. In the late 1940s and early 1950s, tracked vehicles with supplies for his expeditions were used and today the remains of their machinery and an old cable car can still be seen.

Rooms

The lodge offers several types of cabins, ranging from basic yurts to more comfortable, fully equipped cabins. All the cabins and yurts are positioned to maximise views of the glacier, with large windows allowing you to watch for calving events from the comfort of your room (or your bed!).

The interiors are simple, with wooden furnishings and minimal décor, providing warmth and shelter without excess. All cabins offer basic lighting and some have the luxury of an ensuite bathroom.

Even the yurts are cosy with deep duvets, wool blankets and a warmth that lulls you to sleep as the glacier does its thing in the background. Just bring a few extra layers for the late night walk to the toilet block!

Think of this as rustic comfort, with a focus on the landscape rather than amenities.

Food

Meals are provided in the main dining area, with simple, hearty dishes designed to fuel days spent hiking and exploring. Local ingredients are used extensively. Halibut, reindeer and musk ox with freshly baked bread, root vegetables and soups are all on the menu.

Don’t expect gourmet cuisine or a choice from a menu. Given the location and tiny kitchen, the chef works miracles and can adapt to allergies, but it is a three-course fixed menu each night. Happy hour with local beers and gin including the Guides own concoction starts the evening flowing before your dinner arrives.

The small dining area encourages a communal experience, where you can share stories of your adventures or watch the resident Arctic fox wander past. The tables have views out across the fjord, decorated with small arrangements of the local moss and lichens and the chairs have wool blankets and pelts to keep you cosy. Everything feels rustic and natural blending perfectly with the landscape.

A continental-style breakfast, packed lunch and evening meal are all included in the price. Just bring snacks for the munchies as there are no refueling options.

Extras

The lodge offers optional guided hikes. The guided walk to the moraine is included in your stay but the longer hike to the ice sheet is an extra. The guides know the area so well that they can share the little hidden gems that you may not see or even know to look for and are always willing to take photos for you.

While the pace is easy with the guides you are also free to walk at your own speed. The safety information is clear and the guides can talk through the routes before you set off so you know the plan. You must remember to sign in and out of the hiking log book if you wander beyond the boardwalks and the hike to the ice cap must be done with a guide.

After a day spent outdoors, few things compare to relaxing in a warm sauna. At Glacier Lodge Eqi, you can reserve a private sauna perched right on the cliff’s edge. Like everything here, it’s thoughtfully designed to blend with the natural surroundings.

Wildlife encounters

While staying at Glacier Lodge Eqi, you’re likely to see glaucous gulls feeding in the fjord. Arctic foxes are commonly seen darting across the rocky terrain in search of food and ptarmigan waddle around in groups trying to avoid the fox. You may even be lucky and see birds of prey circling on the thermals.

Marine life can sometimes be spotted from the shore or during the boat trip to the lodge, including whales and occasionally seals. The sea ice that collects in the fjord close to the lodge deters seals and whales from venturing too far up the fjord, but sometimes they will appear.

While hiking in the area, it is also possible to see a range of wildflowers and birds. I was not expecting the range of plants and fungi that could be seen across the tundra. The autumn colours were beautiful and gave some insight into the colours that can be seen during the summer when everything is in full bloom.

The real nature spectacle, however, is watching the glacier calving.

The less loveable

There is nothing to not love about Glacier Lodge Eqi, but there are a few things you should consider before going.

The lodge’s remoteness is both a blessing and a challenge. The lack of Wi-Fi and modern conveniences might be uncomfortable if you are used to more typical hotel stays. Additionally, due to its eco-friendly design, hot water is limited, and you may need to adjust your expectations accordingly.

The weather can be unpredictable, with fog and rain sometimes obscuring the glacier views and in severe weather, the boat may be cancelled. Noise from the glacier’s calving can be startling, especially at night, when the sounds echo through the fjord.

The boat comes into Port Victor and there are steep steps up to the safe zone by the blue Port Victor sign and flag pole. These steps need to be done as quickly as possible as there is just a four-minute window from a large calving to the wave reaching the port. A small bag is all you need so pack a foldable duffel bag to take to Eqi. Leave your large suitcase in Ilulissat and make your arrival and departure a little easier.

Glacier Lodge Eqi is a remarkable place for those looking to experience Greenland’s wilderness while staying close to one of its most active glaciers. With stunning views, simple comforts, and the opportunity to witness nature’s raw power, it’s a destination best suited for adventurous travellers willing to embrace a more rugged, eco-conscious stay.