Blue tin and ancient sagas at Hjallur in Vatnsfjörður

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Icelandic Sagas

On the day I visited the gloom hung low over the hills. Below the low cloud, the air was heavy with humidity, the cool bite of a summer morning in Iceland making our faces glow with the chill. Stepping out into this remote landscape the history of the area was hard to reconcile with the stillness of the modern day.

Vatnsfjörður is featured in Grettir’s Saga and was the home of Björn Einarsson, who was known for his pilgrimage to Jerusalem in 1400. His travels also took him to Rome and Greenland, a remarkable journey from Iceland over 600 years ago. Additionally, Vatnsfjörður has been home to a renowned painter and a designer known for shaping historic Icelandic architectural styles.

The Viking Estate at Vatnsfjörður

Vatnsfjörður is home to the extensive ruins of a once-thriving Viking estate. It is believed it was first settled by Snæbjörn, the son of Eyvindur austmaður, who was the brother of Helgi magri, the first settler in Eyjafjörður.

This site became one of Iceland’s wealthiest manors between the 12th and 17th centuries and served as the base for the Vatnsfirðingar, a powerful Viking clan during the Saga Age.

Unearthed Treasures

Archaeological excavations between 2003 and 2013 uncovered fascinating remnants of this Viking settlement, including the ruins of a 10th-century longhouse, a smithy, and several smaller structures.

The excavations also unearthed several intriguing artefacts, including a beautifully crafted gold pendant possibly cut from an Irish brooch. This hints at the far-reaching connections between Iceland and the rest of medieval Europe. Other findings include a water jug shaped like a lion, likely brought over from Europe and the remains of cattle, pigs, seals and whales.

Today, the archaeological site is well-marked near the church with informative signage that helps bring these ancient stories to life.

Grettisvarða Cairn Overlooking Vatnsfjörður

Above Vatnsfjörður on Grettishjalli cliff stands the Grettisvarða cairn. This massive cairn is thought to be linked to Grettir Ásmundarson, known as Grettir the Strong, the notorious Viking outlaw whose legend runs deep in the Icelandic Sagas.

The sheer size of the cairn makes it easy to imagine Grettir with his famed strength, building it during his outlaw years. It’s hollow in the centre, which has led some to believe it might have been used as a watchtower or a beacon during the 1200s.

Exploring the History of Grettir the Strong

According to the Saga of Grettir, he spent some time in Vatnsfjörður during his years on the run. After causing havoc in the area by robbing local farmers, Grettir was captured and sentenced to hang. It was here that Þorbjörg hin digra, Þorbjörg the Portly, stepped in. On her way to hunt seals, she passed the site of Grettir’s impending execution near Selvatn (the Lake of the Seals) and decided to intervene. She convinced Grettir to vow not to seek revenge and saved his life, taking him back to her estate in Vatnsfjörður, where he stayed for a time.

Hiking to Grettisvarða

A path leads up the hillside to Grettisvarða cairn, making for a pleasant and easy hike with sweeping views over the bay and the surrounding landscape. From the top, you can see the protected turf-roofed farmhouse, the church with its circular graveyard and the Viking archaeological site below.

The cairn was declared a protected site in 1929. Like many cairns found in Iceland and Greenland, these stone markers once acted as navigational aids, guiding travellers through the rugged terrain like an early form of GPS.

Vatnsfjarðarkirkja and the Circular Graveyard

In the past, Icelandic graveyards often featured circular designs, with turf churches nestled within them, this included Vatnsfjörður. However, the modern stone church of Vatnsfjörður, known as Vatnsfjarðarkirkja, stands just outside the graveyard’s perimeter. One of the best views of the church and the graveyard is from the cairn above the village where you can see the full layout.

Dating back to 1912 Vatnsfjarðarkirkja is adorned with beautiful historical pieces but like most churches in Iceland, it is now locked due to vandalism concerns.

Many significant artefacts from Vatnsfjarðarkirkja can be found at Þjóðminjasafnið, the National Museum of Iceland. Among these treasures is a wooden statue of St. Olav, King of Norway, dating from 1500 to 1550.

Icelandic Farmhouse Design

Rev. Hjalti Þorsteinsson, who lived in the village from the late 1600s until he died in 1754, was renowned as Iceland’s finest painter of the time. Later, in 1791, one of the village pastors published an essay accompanied by sketches that revolutionized farmhouse and building design throughout the country. This marked the beginning of the iconic Icelandic gabled farmhouse style, with one of the earliest examples still standing in nearby Hrafnseyri.

Hjallur and the Blue Barn

Near the water’s edge, just a short walk from the church you’ll discover the turf fish shed known as Hjallur, part of the Þjóðminjasafnið—the National Museum of Iceland’s Historical Buildings Collection. Dating back to around 1880, this unique structure was built from timber, stone, and turf and was restored and preserved in 1976.

This exposed 19th-century shed has weathered the elements along the shoreline for centuries. Behind it, a newer blue tin barn bears the brunt of the relentless westerly Atlantic winds that carry salt from the frigid fjord waters. Despite its age, Hjallur is still used for drying locally caught fish, continuing a tradition that has endured in this harsh coastal environment.

Photographing Hjallur and Vatnsfjörður’s Viking Landscape

Hjallur is a great opportunity for photographers to capture the unique combination of natural and historic elements. Here are some tips for making the most of your visit.

• Wooden Buildings & Structures: The weathered wood of Hjallur’s ancient buildings creates a striking contrast against the vibrant greens and blues of the surrounding landscape. Visit during the golden hours of early morning or late afternoon when the soft light enhances the texture of the wood and highlights the details of the structures. Shooting from a low angle can help to emphasize the structures against the dramatic backdrop of the fjord and sky.
• Natural Light & Weather: The Westfjords are known for their moody weather, which can create dramatic lighting conditions perfect for photography. On cloudy days, the diffused light brings out the details in the landscape without harsh shadows. Mist and rain can add a mystical quality to your shots, particularly around the fjords where the fog rolls in from the sea.
• Capturing the Vastness: Vatnsfjörður’s wide, open spaces and fjords can feel endless, making it a challenge to convey the scale in photos. Use a wide-angle lens to capture the full sweep of the landscape, from the fjord below to the hills above Hjallur. Including foreground elements, such as wooden buildings or rocky outcroppings, can help provide a sense of scale and lead the viewer’s eye deeper into the image.
• Wildlife Opportunities: While Hjallur is a historic site, it is surrounded by nature and wildlife. Keep an eye out for birds such as Arctic terns and eider ducks and watch for seals basking along the shoreline.

Finding Vatnsfjörður

Vatnsfjörður is located in the far northwest of Iceland. It is on a gravel road just off Road 61. Heading west after Hotel Reykjanes and the causeway the road to the church and barns is signposted.

Hotel Reykjanes with its campsite and hot swimming pool is the perfect base for getting to the Blue Barn although there are some other hotels in the area. AirBnB’s are limited but there are some nearby in Súðavík near the Arctic Fox Museum.

There are two places in Westfjords called Vatnsfjörður. Do not get this Vatnsfjörður confused with Vatnsfjörður Nature Reserve close to Flókalundur on Road 60.

• Road 61 halfway between Súðavík and Hólmavík in Westfjords
• Find on Google Maps