A slow travel guide to the Mendip Hills, Somerset
The Mendip Hills are located southwestern part of England, weaving through the counties of Somerset and North Somerset. Renowned for their distinctive limestone landscapes, the Mendip Hills are a place to escape the busy nearby cities of Bath and Bristol.
These hills are characterised by a unique blend of rugged ridges, expansive plateaus, and deep valleys. Designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), the Mendip Hills offer the chance to immerse yourself in the tranquillity of nature while exploring an ancient landscape shaped over millions of years.
The Mendip Hills stand out for their rich cultural heritage, housing prehistoric sites, medieval settlements, and historic landmarks. Cheddar Gorge, with its dramatic cliffs and winding caves, is a prime example of the area’s unique geology.
The area has a network of trails all joined by the Mendip Way that runs along the length of the hills. Along the way, there are small villages, open moorlands and forests, all with unique habitats and wildlife.
Things to do in the Mendip Hills
The Mendips are the perfect place to explore year-round. The landscape is dotted with deep gorges and nature reserves while the villages and towns are small and intimate oozing with history.
Wells
Wells is the smallest city in England, known for its historic architecture and picturesque surroundings. It is recognised more recently for its starring role as the fictional West Country Village of Sandford in the 2007 action comedy Hot Fuzz.
Here are some things to do in Wells:
- Wells Cathedral – The centrepiece of the city, Wells Cathedral is a magnificent example of Gothic architecture, boasting intricate sculptures and the iconic West Front.
- Vicar’s Close – Adjacent to the cathedral, Vicar’s Close is a well-preserved medieval street in Europe, featuring a row of picturesque houses that once housed the cathedral’s clergy.
- Bishop’s Palace – A medieval palace with stunning gardens, a moat with bell-ringing swans, and a drawbridge makes the Bishop’s Palace an enchanting historical site that offers a glimpse into the home of the Bishop of Bath and Wells.
- Palace Wells and High Street Rivulets – Within the Bishop’s Palace, natural springs called “Palace Wells” give rise to small streams that gracefully flow down the bustling High Street, adding to the city’s character.
- Mendip Hospital Cemetery – Just outside the city is the burial ground for the Somerset and Bath Lunatic Asylum which was in use from 1848 to 1991 and is now a nature reserve.
- Somerset Levels – Surrounding the city, the Somerset Levels is a unique wetland area with diverse wildlife and rich ecosystems, making it a paradise for nature enthusiasts and birdwatchers.
Mendip Way – Walks on the Mendip Hills
The Mendip Way is an 80-kilometre trail with 1,800 metres of ascent that runs from Uphill near Weston-super-Mare to Frome. The western section of the trail begins at the Bristol Channel and offers stunning views of the Somerset Levels. It then crosses the central Mendip plateau and descends to Cheddar Gorge. The eastern section of the trail passes through the city of Wells and then continues to Frome. The landscape in this section is characterised by deep, secluded valleys.
The Mendip Way is broken up into two distinct parts the West Mendip Way and the East Mendip Way. In both sections, there are a lot of circular walks that make the trail achievable in short day hikes.
Crook Peak to King’s Wood Walk
One of our favourites is the out-and-back walk from Kings Wood at Shute Shelf across Wavering Down past the trig point to Crooks Peak. This hill can be seen from the M5 motorway and has views across the Somerset Levels, out towards Exmoor National Park and across the Bristol Channel to South Wales.
It is a moderate walk with a few steep sections and 236 metres of ascent so a good level of fitness is needed. The trail is well-marked but uneven in places. In bad weather, it can become muddy and slippery, especially through Kings Wood at the beginning and end of the walk.
KING’S WOOD TO CROOK PEAK CIRCULAR WALK
Winscombe Hill, BS25 1DH
Difficulty – Medium | Distance – 7.2 kilometres (4.5 miles) | Time – 2 hours
CHECK THE ROUTE
Cheddar Gorge and Caves
Cheddar Gorge is a breathtaking area with dramatic limestone cliffs that tower up to 130 metres high. The road follows the ancient river bed through the gorge as it snakes its way up to the Mendip plateau.
The gorge is home to the Cheddar Caves, a series of subterranean chambers and passages formed over millions of years, showcasing impressive stalactites and stalagmites. These caves hold immense historical significance, with evidence of human occupation dating back over 10,000 years, making them one of Britain’s most important prehistoric sites.
The village of Cheddar is nestled at the foot of the gorge with its traditional architecture and small pubs away from the commercial madness of the Gorge. In the centre of the village close to St Andrew’s Church is the 15th Century hexagonal Market Cross. There is also a large reservoir with a well-made path around the shore which is good for birdwatching.
Cheddar is also renowned for its world-famous Cheddar cheese, which has been produced in the area for centuries, and it is possible to sample and purchase from local producers. Cave-matured cheddar is stored and chilled at the nearby Wookey Hole Caves and Cox’s Cave in Cheddar.
The gorge has a number of walking routes with the most obvious being the Cheddar Loop that takes you along the top of the cliffs for the full length of the gorge. There is also a range of places to go caving and climbing and guides will take you exploring from the village.
CHEDDAR GORGE AND CAVES
Cliff Road, Cheddar, BS27 3QF
Hours – 10 am to 5 pm (Mon-Sun)
Website – Cheddargorge.co.uk
You do not need to pay to drive through the Gorge, walk to the Lookout or visit the small shops.
Shepton Mallet Prison
While prison is an unusual thing to include in a slow travel guide and is just off the edge of the Mendip Hills, HMP Shepton Mallet is so full of history and is quite unique that I feel that it is an experience not to be missed.
Originally built in 1610 and inaugurated in 1625, HMP Shepton Mallet held the title of the oldest operating prison in the United Kingdom until its closure in 2013. It is one of the few prisons in the UK open to the public.
Throughout its history, the prison housed numerous notorious inmates, including soldiers, debtors, and prisoners of war, as well as notorious criminals such as the Kray twins in the 1950s. During World War II, the prison was used as a military prison and execution site, where 18 German spies were hanged by British authorities.
Today, Shepton Mallet Prison offers guided tours with retired prison officers, who provide a unique opportunity to explore its dark and intriguing history. The tours include access to the prison’s eerie wings, cells, and gallows, offering a chilling glimpse into the lives of its former inmates and the harsh conditions they endured.
If you prefer you can wander the cells alone and take time to absorb the heavy, unsettling atmosphere that pervades every corner of the building. Whilst ghosts are not something I usually mention, Shepton Mallet is an exception with a number of well-documented visitors.
SHEPTON MALLET PRISON
Frithfield Lane, Shepton Mallet, BA4 5FQ
Hours – 10 am to 5 pm (Mon-Sun)
Website – sheptonmalletprison.com
There is a small parking area within the prison walls, just drive through the arrivals archway
Wookey Hole Caves and Mill
The caves at Wookey Hole formed over millions of years with impressive stalactites, stalagmites and subterranean lakes. These are part of one of the longest and deepest cave complexes in Britain with more areas being discovered and opened up each year.
The site’s history dates back to the Stone Age, making it one of Britain’s oldest continuously inhabited places. Archaeological findings suggest human occupation in the area around 5,000 years ago. During the medieval period, the caves became a site for religious pilgrimage due to the belief in the healing powers of the waters within the caves.
Wookey Hole Mill is a 19th-century paper mill located nearby and there is a chance to see demonstrations of how paper is made using traditional methods in the buildings close to the cave exit.
The caves and mill are a popular attraction for families and it can be busy. We find that visiting on the first or last tours of the day means you can have a more peaceful experience. The caves are on a timed entry system but once you leave the caves you are free to wander the paper mill and caving exhibitions.
WOOKEY HOLE CAVES AND MILL
The Mill, High Street, Wookey Hole, Wells, BA5 1BA
Hours – 9.30 am to 5.30 pm (Mon-Sun)
Website – wookey.co.uk
Check their website for opening times if there has been heavy rain as the caves can flood
Chew Valley Lakes
The Chew Valley is part of the Mendips and has two artificial lakes – Chew Valley and Blagdon. Blagdon Lake was completed in 1905 with Chew Valley being completed in 1956. Both were constructed to supply water to Bristol City and are privately owned by Bristol Water.
It is not possible to walk the entire circumference of the lakes, but there is a large parking area and birdwatching location on the road that crosses Chew Valley Lake. The Grebe and Bittern nature trails are signposted from the picnic area. Over winter shovelers and black-headed gulls can be seen in the open water and other important species can be spotted year-round. Chew Valley Lake is designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a Special Protected Area meaning that access is restricted.
CHEW VALLEY LAKES
Chew Magna, Bristol BS40 8SZ
The parking area is a great spot for birdwatching or to start a walk.
If you want a quick stop there is a large parking area on the main A368 at Herriots Bridge near West Harptree
Other places to explore
There are so many places to explore on the Mendips that it is almost impossible to list them all in one place and give full details. Listed below are other places to explore if you have more time in the area.
- Axbridge village is located just a few miles from Cheddar. It has a number of ancient streets with King John’s Hunting Lodge on the corner of the main square which is now a small museum.
- Beacons Batch is the highest point on the Mendip Hills with views across towards Bristol and south Wales.
- Bleadon Hill is the highest point on the western end of the hills and has amazing 360 views across the Bristol Channel and Somerset Levels.
- Burrington Coombe and Ham are areas of Special Scientific Interest and another gorge to be explored
- Deer Leap is the place for misty views out across the Somerset Levels with views of Glastonbury Tor peeking above the mist.
- Dolebury Warren is an Iron-Age hillfort with evidence of ancient field systems. It is a lovely walk across the moorland which links to the wooded valley at Rowberrow Warren on the West Mendip Way.
- Draycott Sleights is a small nature reserve with stunning views out across the Somerset Levels. It is close to Cheddar Gorge and part of the West Mendip Way.
- East Harptree Woods is an evergreen forest offering walking trails and views across the Chew Valley. You will also find the Smitham Chimney here, the last remaining lead-smelting chimney on the Mendip Hills.
- Ebbor Gorge is a miniature gorge formed from limestone. It is tucked away behind Wookey Hole and is often overlooked. It is a National Nature Reserve and is particularly pretty on an early spring morning when the bluebells are in flower.
- Priddy is an ancient settlement on the Mendip Hills. In the centre of the village green is the wooden Hurdle stack. The village has a long tradition of an annual sheep fair and folk festival.
- Priddy Mineries and Stockhill Forest are a great place to start walks in the area including a short walk to the Priddy Nine Barrows. The old lead ore mines that form the mine workings have been reclaimed by nature and are now small lakes.
- Rodney Stoke is one of the 9 Thankful Villages in Somerset where no one was lost in World War 1. The village has a beautiful 12th Century Church – St Leonard’s with unusual wooden screens and there is a small wooded nature reserve nearby. This church is a little special to me as I was married there!
Map of things to do on the Mendips
This map includes all the top things to do on the Mendip Hills that I have included in this guide.
How to use this map – Click on the top left of the map to display the list of locations, then click on the locations to display further information. Click on the top right corner of the map to open a larger version in a new tab or the star to save to your Google Maps.
HOW TO GET TO THE MENDIP HILLS
The Mendips are easy to access if you have a car. The M5 motorway passes through a natural cutting in the hills close to Crook Peak and by coming off at Junction 22 for Burnham-on-Sea you will pick up signs for Cheddar Gorge.
From Bristol, the A38 past Bristol Airport passes through the Mendips at Shute Shelf or further east the A39 skirts the area towards Shepton Mallet.
Public transport to the area and for getting around is very limited. Details of bus services can be found on the Mendip Hill AONB official website.
GETTING AROUND THE MENDIP HILLS
If you are driving around the area, the main roads to use for planning are the A371 from Axbridge to Wells, the A368 that runs along the north edge of the hills through the Chew Valley and the B3135 that goes through Cheddar Gorge towards Shepton Mallet.