An Iceland Road Trip Along Roads 50 and 520 – Deildartunguhver To Hvalfjörður

Most drivers heading between Reykjavík and West Iceland stay on Route 1 the whole way, missing a quieter alternative that runs a short distance to the south. This route follows Road 50 through Reykholtsdalur, then climbs onto Road 520 over the Geldingadragi pass before dropping down to meet Road 47 on the shore of Hvalfjörður.

It isn’t a loop, and it doesn’t start or end in Reykjavík. It’s a connecting route, useful as an alternative to Route 1 if you’re travelling between the capital and the Reykholt or Húsafell area, or simply as a detour worth building into a longer West Iceland trip.

Along the way it takes in Iceland’s highest-flow hot spring, a museum dedicated to one of the country’s most important mediaeval writers, a troll-themed sculpture park, two quiet lakes, and, on a clear day, some of the best mountain views over Hvalfjörður reachable by a paved and half-paved road.

This is not a fast road. Road 520 in particular is narrow, partly gravel and crosses a mountain pass with no barriers in places. In good weather it’s a genuinely beautiful drive; in poor visibility or high wind, it’s better avoided.

This guide covers the main stops in the order you’ll reach them heading from Route 1 towards Hvalfjörður: Deildartunguhver and Krauma first, then Snorrastofa and Fossatún further along Road 50, before the climb over the Geldingadragi pass on Road 520 and the descent past the lakes.

This article contains links to products and services that I think you will find useful. I may earn a commission on any purchases you make at no cost to you. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Read more HERE

The Route – Stop by Stop

Stop 1 – Deildartunguhver and Krauma

Road 50 · 30km from Route 1 at Grábrók / 15km from the junction of Road 50 and Route 1 · Allow 1-2 hours

Deildartunguhver is Europe’s highest-flow hot spring, releasing around 180 litres of water per second at close to boiling point. Wooden walkways let you get close to the steaming, bubbling spring without danger. The water supplies central heating for towns across a wide area of West Iceland, including Akranes and Borgarnes, and feeds a nearby greenhouse where tomatoes are grown using its geothermal heat.

Krauma, a bathing complex built alongside the spring in 2017, uses Deildartunguhver’s water cooled with glacial water from the river Rauðsgil rather than the near-boiling water straight from the source. It has several small geothermal pools, two steam baths and a cold pool, generally quieter than the larger spas closer to Reykjavík. Booking ahead is recommended.

Stop 2 – Snorrastofa

Road 518, a short distance off Road 50 · 6km from Deildartunguhver · Allow 45-60 minutes

Snorrastofa is a research and cultural centre at Reykholt, built on the farm where the mediaeval writer, historian and chieftain Snorri Sturluson lived for much of his life and was killed by his son-in-law in 1241.

Snorri wrote Heimskringla, a history of the Norse kings, and is credited by many scholars as the author of the Prose Edda, a central source for Norse mythology.

The centre includes historical exhibitions and a bookshop, and Snorralaug, a small stone-built pool said to have been used by Snorri himself, still stands nearby, one of the few structures surviving whole from Iceland’s mediaeval period.

Stop 3 – Fossatún and the Troll Garden

Road 50, near the junction with Road 512 · 20km from Snorrastofa · Allow 30-45 minutes

Fossatún sits on the banks of the Grímsá river and is home to a small troll-themed sculpture park, with marked paths leading past wooden and stone troll figures tied to Icelandic folklore. Look out for the troll’s handprint in the stones. It’s a lighter, family-friendly stop, with a riverside restaurant if you want to break the drive here before the climb onto Road 520.

Stop 4 – Geldingadragi pass

Road 520, as the road climbs from Road 50 · 15km from Fossatún · Allow 20-30 minutes for photo stops

This is the high point of Road 520, where the road narrows and climbs with no guardrails in places. This is also the point where the drive demands the most care: the surface is mixed gravel and tarmac, and the road should only be attempted in good visibility and weather. We drove this on a beautiful day in August, and the weather was very different to what we found in Hvalfjörður.

Stop 5 – Þórisstaðavatn and Geitabergsvatn

Road 520, descending towards Hvalfjörður · around 10km beyond the pass · Allow 20-30 minutes for a stop

Beyond the pass, Road 520 drops down into a farming valley holding a small chain of lakes. Þórisstaðavatn is the largest of the three lakes in this valley, around 1.4 square kilometres and up to 24 metres deep, with a small organised campsite on its shore. Geitabergsvatn lies just beyond it, connected by the short river Þverá. Both lakes are popular for trout and char fishing, and the valley itself is a quiet finish before the road meets Road 47 on the shore of Hvalfjörður at Hallgrímskirkja Saurbæ.

How to Plan Your Visit

This route works well as a half-day detour if you’re already driving between Reykjavík and the Reykholt or Húsafell area, adding perhaps an hour or two over staying on Route 1, depending on how long you spend at each stop. Krauma is the one stop that can extend the day considerably if bathing is part of your plan, so build that in deliberately rather than as an afterthought.

Because Road 520 crosses an exposed mountain pass, check the weather and safetravel.is before setting out, and be prepared to turn back or take Route 1 instead if conditions have changed since you checked.

Getting Around

Road 50 is fully surfaced and manageable in any standard rental car. Road 520 is narrower, partly gravel, and includes a mountain pass without guardrails in places. It’s best suited to confident drivers in good conditions, and a 4×4 is a sensible choice.

Even as a nervous Iceland driver, I managed this route, and it was another of our unexpected fun drives through a landscape that wasn’t really planned.

There are no fuel stations directly on Road 520, so fill up in Reykholt on Road 518 while you are at Snorrastofa or Borgarnes before setting out. It is also a day where you need a picnic and snacks.

What Else is Nearby

Hraunfossar and Barnafoss

A pair of distinctive waterfalls further along Road 50 towards Húsafell, where water flows from beneath a lava field rather than over a single drop. A natural extension of this route if you’re continuing further into the Borgarfjörður region.

Húsafell

A forested area and settlement at the end of Road 50, popular for hiking, camping and the nearby Víðgelmir lava tube, one of the largest and most accessible in Iceland.

Hvalfjörður, Akranes and Glymur

Once you reach Road 47, our route around Hvalfjörður picks up naturally, taking in Akranes and the trail to Glymur waterfall if you have time to continue.

Borgarnes

The main town in the region, on Route 1, has the Settlement Centre museum covering the area’s Saga-era history, and the last significant town for fuel and food before joining this route.

Plan Your Iceland Trip

This overview covers the stops and what to expect, but not turn-by-turn directions, current road conditions on Road 520, or GPS points for parking at each site. My West Iceland regional guide covers this area in more depth. My Trip Check service can review your plans before you go, particularly useful given how weather-dependent this route is, and the complete Road 50 and 520 route is part of the Iceland membership.