A Road Trip To Hvalfjörður – Akranes And The Fjord The Tunnel Bypassed
Since the Hvalfjörður tunnel opened in 1998, most traffic between Reykjavík and the north of Iceland has bypassed the fjord entirely, passing beneath it in under ten minutes. The old road around Hvalfjörður is still there, and it’s now one of the quietest scenic drives within easy reach of Reykjavík.
Hvalfjörður, meaning “whale fjord”, runs deep between steep mountains, past farms, a shoreline hot spring and the trailhead for Glymur, one of Iceland’s tallest waterfalls. Combined with the harbour town of Akranes on the fjord’s northern shore, it makes for a full day that mixes driving, a proper hike and a stop at the coast, all without the crowds of the Golden Circle.
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Reykjavík to Hvalfjörður at a glance
- Starting point: Reykjavík
- Round-trip distance: about 120km, using the tunnel one way and the old fjord road the other
- Drive time: 2½ to 3 hours driving, excluding the Glymur hike, so allow a full day if you’re walking to the falls
- Key roads: Route 1 (Hvalfjörður tunnel, toll road) → Route 51 (Akranes) → Route 47 (Hvalfjarðarvegur, the old fjord road)
- Best season: Late spring to early autumn for the Glymur hike, when river levels are lower; the fjord road itself is open year-round
- Highlights: Akranes lighthouses · Hvammsvík hot springs · Botnsdalur · Glymur
The Route – Stop by Stop
Stop 1 – Akranes
Route 51, via the Hvalfjörður tunnel · around 48km from Reykjavík · Allow 1-1.5 hours
A harbour town on the northern side of the fjord, with two lighthouses, one from 1918 and a taller one from 1947, standing side by side overlooking the bay. A coastal path runs past both, with views back across Faxaflói bay towards Reykjavík and, on a clear day, Snæfellsjökull far to the west. Akranes is a working town rather than a tourist stop, which makes it a good place to break the drive without feeling rushed.
Stop 2 – Botnsdalur
Route 47, at the head of the fjord · around 10km from Hvammsvík · Roadside stop
The valley at the head of Hvalfjörður is where the fjord road loops around back towards Road 1 and the trail to Glymur begins. This is also a working farming area, with one of the larger stretches of birch woodland in the region. It’s a natural point to park, gather gear and start the walk, or to break the drive if the hike isn’t part of your plan.
Between the head of the fjord and Hvammsvík, there are a few stops, including small waterfalls and interesting historical landmarks. If you aren’t walking to Glymur, there is more than enough to make the drive along the fjord worthwhile.
Stop 3 – Glymur Trailhead
Botnsdalur · Allow 3-4 hours for the full walk
At around 198 metres, Glymur was considered Iceland’s tallest waterfall until a taller one was identified beneath the Vatnajökull glacier in 2011. The walk to the viewpoints above the falls crosses the Botnsá river, an act that itself varies in difficulty through the season, and climbs through a gorge with some exposed sections. It is not a short walk, and it is not suitable for every visitor, but the views back down the gorge from the upper viewpoints are among the best reachable on foot this close to Reykjavík.
In the summer months, a log (bridge) is put over the river crossing. This can be checked at https://safetravel.is/travel-conditions/
Stop 4 – Hvammsvík hot springs
Route 47 · around 25km from Akranes · Allow 1.5-3 hours if bathing
A set of geothermal pools built directly on the shore of Hvalfjörður has been developed as a bathing site in recent years. Unlike Iceland’s larger spa complexes, several pools here sit close enough to the water that the tide affects which ones are accessible, and the fjord itself is part of the view rather than a backdrop to it. Booking ahead is recommended, particularly in summer.
Plan Ahead
Book your soak at Hvammsvík Hot Springs ahead of time
How to Plan Your Visit
If Glymur is part of your day, build the walk in as the main part of your day rather than one stop among several: three to four hours there and back leaves less time than it looks like on a map. If the hike isn’t for you or conditions aren’t right for the river crossing, the fjord road, Akranes and Hvammsvík still make for a full and good day without it.
Late spring through to early autumn is the easiest window for the Glymur walk, when river levels have usually dropped from the spring melt. Outside that window, check safetravel.isand recent trail reports before setting out, as the crossing can be significantly more difficult after heavy rain or snowmelt.
Getting Around
The fjord road (Route 47) and the route through Akranes are both surfaced and manageable in a standard two-wheel-drive car in summer. There are limited services along the fjord road itself, so fuel and food are best sorted in Reykjavík or Akranes before setting out. The Hvalfjörður tunnel is a toll road; tolls are paid online rather than at a booth.
What Else is Nearby
Borgarnes
This is a small town at the northern end of the region, with a folk museum and a good stopping point if you’re continuing further north rather than looping back to Reykjavík.
Roads 520 and 50 to Deildartunguhver
If you’re continuing north rather than looping back to Reykjavík, our quieter 70km route via Road 520 and Road 50 connects directly onto Route 47 at Hallgrímskirkja Saurbæ, taking in Deildartunguhver, Snorrastofa and a mountain pass with views back over Hvalfjörður. Too far to add to this route in a single day, but a natural next leg if you’re building a longer West Iceland trip.
Road 48 – Þórufoss waterfall to Mosfellsdalur
Our route to Þingvellir follows the quieter Road 48 through Mosfellsdalur, passing Þórufoss waterfall and the distinctive little yellow house that sits above it before continuing to Iceland’s most famous national park. If you’re spending several days based in Reykjavík, it pairs well with this drive and offers another peaceful alternative to the busier tourist routes.
Plan Your Iceland Trip
This overview covers the stops and what to expect, but not the detailed trail notes for Glymur, current river crossing conditions, or turn-by-turn directions around the fjord. My West Iceland regional guide covers this area in more depth. My Trip Check service can review your plans and timing before you go, and the complete Hvalfjörður route, including trail detail and maps, is part of the Iceland membership.
This route is one of six covered in my guide to short road trips from Reykjavík. Sign up for the newsletter and receive a new Wild Day Out every week, plus my Iceland hot tub and pools map.
