Hornstrandir Nature Reserve in Iceland

Hornstrandir Nature Reserve is located in the far northwest of Iceland. It is remote and isolated and can only be reached by boat during the summer months.

This guide will share how to make the journey to Hornstrandir Nature Reserve in the Westfjords region of Iceland and have a good chance of encountering the wild birds and Arctic foxes that make this remote landscape their home.

The summer months in Hornstrandir can be beautiful, calm, and, in an instant, a wild storm. The wildlife that makes this landscape its home is hardy and able to survive whatever the weather throws at them.

Even in the middle of an Arctic winter, it is possible to encounter one of the most elusive mammals in Iceland. While travel to the Westfjords of Iceland is an adventure in itself, to make this journey in the winter and travel beyond the relative security of Ísafjörður takes a special sort of madness and a willingness to expect wild weather, a change of plans, and lengthy delays.

HISTORY OF HORNSTRANDIR NATURE RESERVE

Hornstrandir Nature Reserve is an isolated peninsula of land covering 580 sq km. To the south of the nature reserve is the Drangjökull glacier, much smaller than the large glaciers that are found in the south of Iceland. It is a diverse landscape with deep fjords, mountains, and abandoned settlements.

The area was inhabited from the 9th century, and over the years, it has seen a fluctuating population as climate and farming traditions have changed.

The farming was in small settlements with just a few cows and sheep, and they relied on the surrounding seas for fish and the birds from the high cliffs as much as domesticated livestock.

The nature reserve was established in 1975, long after the final residents left in 1952. Over the years, the descendants of the farmers have returned to restore their homes as summer retreats.

SETTLEMENTS WITHIN HORNSTRANDIR NATURE RESERVE

While no one lives permanently in the nature reserve now, there are memories of the past. Some of the larger settlements in the early 1900s remain intact and welcome visitors during the calmer summer months.

HORNVÍK BAY

One of the best hikes is to the high cliff at Hornbjarg, which is in the far north of the reserve. This overlooks Hornvík Bay and the sea cliffs.

Beyond this, there is the Arctic and not a lot else. Perched beyond the bird cliffs is the Hornbjargsviti lighthouse, which was automated in 1995 but still provides warmth and comfort as a mountain hut for walkers in the nature reserve.

HESTEYRI

In the summer, it is also possible to visit Hesteyri, which is the start of many of the hikes in the area and also where you will find a number of traditional farmhouses.

A Norwegian whaling station was built in Stekkeyri, close to the village, in 1894. The factory was in use as a herring factory between 1915 and its closure in the 1930s and is just a short walk from the village.

AÐALVÍK

This is one of the prettiest bays in the nature reserve and was home to over 200 people at the turn of the 20th century. Slowly, people left until the village was abandoned in the 1950’s.

From here, it is possible to hike Mount Darri with its WWII lookout used by the British Army or scale Mount Straumnesfjall, which conveniently has an old US military road to the summit and an abandoned radar station.

WILDLIFE IN HORNSTRANDIR NATURE RESERVE

In the summer months, Hornstrandir is green and lush. The sheer cliffs are covered in an abundance of wildflowers, and wildlife emerges, taking over the landscape.

SEA BIRDS

In the summer months, Hornstrandir is alive with sea birds. The area has two of the largest seabird colonies in Europe, overlooking the ocean at Hornvík Bay, with an estimated 5–6 million seabirds nesting.

The main birds that nest here in the summer months are Arctic terns, black guillemots, and charismatic puffins.

ARCTIC FOXES

The nature reserve is also home to the Arctic fox. This is Iceland’s only native mammal and can be found hunting along the cliffs.

There is a hunting ban in the nature reserve, so the foxes have little fear of humans, and some can be quite bold.

FIELD MOUSE

If you look carefully during the summer months, you may also find the small field mouse that inhabits the meadows that cover the cliffs and rolling hills of the area.

WILDFLOWERS

Hornstrandir has an abundance of plants, mainly due to the lack of grazing animals since the permanent residents left. There are over 250 species of flowering plants and ferns that can be found in the nature reserve.

Many are native to the Westfjords region, and some can only be found in the reserve. Huge areas of angelica (Angelica archangelica) can be seen, as well as the bright pinks of sea pinks (Armeria maritima) and the fluffy white cotton grass (Eriophorum angustifolium) known as Klófífa in Icelandic.

HORNSTRANDIR ACTIVITIES DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS

Hornstrandir Nature Reserve is only accessible during the summer months (May, June, July, and, occasionally, August). It is well worth visiting with a local company that can provide support and advice.

Hornstranidr is perfect for those who love to escape into the wilderness. There are no roads, shops, or permanent homes. To visit, you need to plan and bring everything with you. This includes food and water, as well as tents and camp equipment.

Hiking is the main reason for visiting stunning landscapes, wildlife encounters, and true wilderness.

As well as hiking, it is also possible to explore the nature reserve by kayak and boat with tours from Ísafjörður with Borea Adventures. This small company also runs the ferry service from Ísafjörður and can help with hiking and camping in the nature reserve.

HORNSTRANDIR NATURE RESERVE IN THE WINTER

In the winter months, the nature reserve is a completely different place to visit. The weather is extreme with winter storms blowing through with the landscape coated in snow. Huge snow drifts run down to the shoreline with a distinctive appearance only seen in the Westfjords known as Moður locally.

Arctic foxes, ravens, eider ducks, and harlequin ducks are the hardiest residents and sit out the storms that sweep over the peninsula. Food is sparse and the area is covered in a layer of snow and ice.

The only place to stay in the winter is at Kvíar, an old homestead that is now a warm and cosy lodge sitting above the shoreline of the relatively sheltered Jökulfirðir Bay. Visitors are restricted in the winter and access has to be arranged in advance.

• Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, Westfjords, Near Ísafjörður
• Find on Google Maps
• Visit Westfjords website

Planning a road trip to Iceland? Read all my Iceland Travel Guides