Exploring Pencaer Peninsula and Strumble Head Lighthouse
Strumble Head Lighthouse is located in Pembrokeshire, to the west of Fishguard. It sits on a rocky promontory isolated on its own small island called Ynys Meicl or Michael’s Island. It is a fantastic place to watch for passing whales, dolphins and porpoises and in the autumn grey seals have their young in the sheltered hidden coves. In the summer months, the headlands are covered in a blanket of flowers and in the winter months, the stormy seas surge through the narrow gap between the island and the mainland in spectacular style. Pencaer Peninsula where the lighthouse sits includes wide sweeping bays and rocky coves which form part of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.
History of Strumble Head Lighthouse
Strumble Head Lighthouse was one of the last lighthouses to be built in the UK in 1908. The stretch of coast has a long history of taking vessels in the dangerous waters with over 60 being lost during the 1800’s. When transatlantic liners began to use Fishguard while travelling from Ireland as a link to London on the Fishguard railway, the need to light the coastline became apparent. South Bishop lighthouse, 18 miles south-west of Strumble Head helped to guide vessels but something more was needed.
The geography of the island caused problems when the lighthouse was being built. Building materials and supplies were swung across the gap on a cable with the use of winches and once completed the handrail of the small suspension bridge across to the island carried oil into the basement of the lighthouse tower. The bridge is now closed, but it is possible to take the steps down to the end of the bridge.
The original lens was rotated using a massive clockwork mechanism which needed winding every 12 hours but in 1965 this was replaced with a compact electric system. In 1980 the lighthouse was converted to an unmanned automatic operation which is controlled from Harwich in Essex.
Exploring Strumble head
The road from Tresinwen ends in a large parking area. From here it is possible to see the lighthouse making it accessible to all. A sloping path leads down to the observatory where there are panoramic views out across the sea as well as along the coast towards the lighthouse.
While it is not possible to cross the bridge across to the lighthouse a steep path and steps lead down to the end of the bridge where you can see the seals patrolling the rough waters. If you visit at high tide then there will be beautiful waves breaking over the rocky cliffs of the island. The path down to the lighthouse is one of the places to look out for choughs who make this area their home. These small birds will look like crows but look carefully and you will see their red legs and beaks.
From the headland looking across to the lighthouse, there is a path that snakes along the coast following Carreg Onnen Bay. This small bay has craggy cliffs that drop into the deep blue sea. It is possible to follow the coast path along the cliffs for as far as you want.
Strumble Head Observatory
Just below the parking area is a concrete building. Once a wartime lookout post, it has been converted into a sea observation building. It is one of the best places in the UK to see passing whales and dolphins or just watch the birdlife on the wildflower-covered clifftops. As well as watching for wildlife, the observatory has some of the best views of the lighthouse along the coast. The building provides shelter from the winds and is great for whale-watching
Carreg Onnen Bay
From the end of the road and the parking area the coast path snakes along the headland to the west of the lighthouse. From here there are stunning views back to the lighthouse where the suspension bridge becomes clear. This headland is covered in wildflowers and will often have seals bobbing around in the surf or hauled up on the rocky shore. In the summer months, the sun will set over this headland making it the perfect location for silhouettes and just before sunset the textures of the cliffs will pop in the light.
Garn Fawr and Pwll Deri
A short drive from Stumble Head or a decent walk beyond Carreg Onnen Bay on the coast path is Garn Fawr. This is a large volcanic rock with views out over Strumble Head. It was once an Iron Age hill fort and during World War One was used as a lookout post. If you take the time to walk to the top of the ridge at 213 metres you will be rewarded with panoramic views across the Pembrokeshire landscape and on a clear day you may be lucky enough to see the hills of North Wales.
Below Garn Fawr is a small shallow bay called Pwll Deri. This looks tropical on a sunny day and small paths lead along the coast to small coves and headlands, all of which are stunning in the late summer coated in the pinks and yellows of gorse and heather.
Wildlife at Strumble Head
In the autumn seals come to the island and its surrounding waters and you may see young pups on the rocky shoreline. Throughout the year there will be seals bobbing about in the surf but October and November will bring more activity.
Year round it is possible to see passing whales and dolphins. There is no good time to see them, it is more of a game of luck of being in the right place at the right time.
Take time to look for wildflowers that coat the headlands. In spring you will see pink thrift and wild orchids and later in the season heather and gorse will become more dominant.
The headland is also home to birds with choughs being noisy around the parking area. Off to the side of the path keep your eyes open for smaller birds and maybe even passing gannets or puffins.
Getting to Strumble Head
Strumble Head is located a short distance from Fishguard off the A487. There are clear signposts which take you down to the parking area. The road is narrow and steep with passing places and close to the cliff edge. A bus (404 from Fishguard to St David’s) runs a service down to the parking area if you want an adventure from Fishguard. This bus continues along the coast to St David’s visiting some of the smaller coastal villages.
- Strumble Head, Fishguard, SA64 0JL
- Off the A487
- See on Google Maps
