Muckle Flugga Lighthouse, Shetland
Muckle Flugga Lighthouse sits on a rocky island offshore from the far north of Unst, one of the Shetland Islands. The island that it is perched on is almost the last rock in the UK, only Out Stack, the northernmost point of the UK, lies 600m beyond Muckle Flugga.
Muckle Flugga is the most northerly lighthouse in the U.K. as well as the Shetland Islands and is surrounded by bird cliffs that are home to gannets and puffins.
In the winter it is buffeted by wild North Atlantic Storms and is illuminated by the aurora borealis. In the summer it is never truly dark and sunsets linger through the night, locally known as the Simmer Dim.
Unst is the third largest of the Shetland Islands after Mainland and Yell and is reached by ferry from Yell. The name “Muckle Flugga” comes from the Old Norse name Mikla Flugey, meaning “large steep-sided island”, a name that describes this rocky outcrop perfectly.
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A SHORT HISTORY OF MUCKLE FLUGGA LIGHTHOUSE
- Building work began in 1854 when a light was needed to protect the British fleet in the Crimean War
- The first light was lit on 11th October 1854 and stood 15 metres high, 66 metres above the sea. It wasn’t long before winter storms were breaking over the top of the protective dyke and the keepers were permanently wet.
- The new tower was started in 1855 and was designed and built by David and Thomas Stevenson.
- This permanent light was lit on 1st January 1858 and was known as North Unst Lighthouse.
- 1927 saw the static light changing to the current group flashing 2 white every 20 seconds.
- In 1964 the lighthouse changed its name to Muckle Flugga Lighthouse and the shore station was added in 1969.
- By 1995 the lighthouse was fully automated and the shore station was no longer in use.
MUCKLE FLUGGA AND THE GIANTS
Further north than any other lighthouse in the U.K., Muckle Flugga sits offshore in the North Atlantic. There is nothing other than Out Stack, a small rocky outcrop 600m further north between this lighthouse and the North Pole.
Legend has it that Muckle Flugga and Out Stacks were formed when two giants Herma and Saxa, fell in love with the same mermaid. A fight ensued between the two giants with large rocks being thrown, one of which was Muckle Flugga.
The mermaid grew tired of their constant fights and told the giants that she would marry whoever followed her to the North Pole. Both were keen and followed only to realise they couldn’t swim and both drowned before reaching the North Pole
WHERE IS MUCKLE FLUGGA?
Muckle Flugga is located within the Hermaness National Nature Reserve. This is a wild landscape with high cliffs that is home to a gannet colony and puffins in the summer months.
Hermaness NNR is located on the north coast of Unst, the most northerly of the Shetland Islands.
The Shore Station and Visitors Hub are located in the sheltered inlet called Burrafirth where the parking area is located at the end of the road.
From the Visitors Hub, a well-made boardwalk takes you through the nature reserve out to the old Muckle Flugga Signal Station where the lighthouse can be seen on Muckle Flugga rock across a short body of swirling water and rocks.
ACCESS TO MUCKLE FLUGGA LIGHTHOUSE
It is not possible to visit Muckle Flugga Lighthouse without a private boat charter and even then it is unlikely you will be able to land on the island itself.
However, getting to this part of the UK is an adventure in itself and the views out to the lighthouse are worth the journey.
From Hermaness Nature Reserve there are views of the lighthouse across from the gannet colony, as well as closer along the headland. This is a fantastic location at sunset as the sky explodes with colour. In summer the sun sets just to the west of the lighthouse.
Saxa Vord provides more of a glimpse of the lighthouse. As the road snakes up to the top of the hill, the lighthouse comes into view between the hills framed by the rough grass and moss.
The cliffs at Hermaness are steep and the wind is almost constant. Care is needed at all times for this lighthouse visit.
HOW LONG SHOULD I SPEND AT MUCKLE FLUGGA AND HERMANESS NATURE RESERVE?
Depending on your walking speed and interest in the wildlife, your visit to Hermaness Nature Reserve will take at least 3 hours without stopping for photographs and spending time wildlife watching.
If you have limited time, then viewing the lighthouse from the road at Saxa Vord will give good views without the time commitment and walk.
ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD ON UNST
Once you reach Hermaness Nature Reserve there is nowhere to buy food. At the small Visitors Hub at the lighthouse shore station at Burra Firth there is a toilet as well as information about the reserve and the walk so make sure you bring supplies and snacks with you.
Very close by is the pretty Old Pier Cottage at Uyeasound. This cottage is perfect for exploring Unst and the Hermaness Nature Reserve. It is just 20 minutes from the parking for the Nature Reserve and looks out across the bay towards Uyea.
Victoria’s Vintage Tea Rooms in Haroldswick, about a 15-minute drive from Barra Firth is worth visiting for beautiful cakes and lunch. Be warned though, that it is popular and it is best to book in advance.
GETTING TO MUCKLE FLUGGA
Unst is two ferries and a two-hour drive from Lerwick, the capital of the Shetland Islands.
From the second ferry from Yell to Unst take the A968 onto the B9086 at Haroldswick. At the end of the road, there is a car park and the Visitor’s Hub.
The path to the cliff top is a boardwalk making it a fairly easy walk. The path undulates through rough grass and some boggy areas out to the cliff top. Be aware of the aggressive Bonxies (Great Skua) in the summer months who nest beside the path.
The boardwalk and cliff tops meet at a place called Toolie. Following the path to the left toward Saito and the gannet colony is an experience.
Returning back to Toolie and then heading east will follow the cliffs to Looss Wick where the lighthouse can be seen on the rocks swirling with gannets.
This is a circular walk that takes about 3 hours.
- Hermaness Nature Reserve, Haroldswick, Shetland ZE2 9EQ
- Find on Google Maps
- Visit the Hermaness Nature Reserve Website