The dogs of Chornobyl

Arriving at Dytyatki Checkpoint a solid, wolflike dog comes trotting up to the van. He welcomes each visitor as they disembark at the first checkpoint into the exclusion zone. A wilderness, the controlled zone surrounding the Chornobyl Nuclear Power Plant near Pripyat in Ukraine is now inhabited by very few humans and is home to unique wildlife and dogs. Knowing how to get attention he is the first of many dogs that live within the zone to say “hello”.

Things have changed in Chornobyl since this was written. Hopefully, one-day peace will return and visiting this special region of Ukraine will be possible.

In 1986 the Chornobyl Nuclear Power Plant was the location of a catastrophic accident and two days after the disaster the mass evacuation of the area began. People from an area up to 30km from the Power Plant were made to leave taking just a small number of belongings with them. They were not allowed to take pets with them, but many thought the evacuation would be for just a few days and hoped to return to collect pets at a later time. This was not to be the case. Shortly after the evacuation the Soviet Army was sent in to shoot the cats and dogs that were roaming the area. This was an impossible task and the dogs within the zone are descendants of these abandoned pets.

At some point in time, some of the dogs have bred with the wolves that are found in the surrounding forests giving many of the dogs a unique appearance. Deep wolf eyes blend with the softness found in domesticated animals. An unnerving feeling of uncertainty as the dog/wolf appearance flits before your eyes.

Life in the Chornobyl Exclusion Zone for dogs

Life for these dogs is harsh. Winters are bitterly cold, whilst the summer months see high temperatures. The dogs are forced from the forests by the packs of wolves who roam wild, free from the restraints put in place by humans in other areas. Many dogs are malnourished and those that aren’t vaccinated by the visiting vets from Clean Futures Fund are exposed to rabies from the resident wolves.

It is thought that about 250 dogs roam around the nuclear power plant. Attracted by humans and the associated food, their numbers are now controlled by a neutering and spaying programme from the Clean Futures Fund. Those that have been ‘done’ sport an attractive green ear tag. Prior to this programme which started in 2017, many were culled by the Chornobyl Nuclear Power Plant in an attempt to stop the numbers from growing.

Chornobyl checkpoint dogs

There are also small populations of dogs living around the checkpoints and within Chornobyl town where the workers and self-settlers (people who have chosen to return against government advice) live. The guards ensure the dogs are cared for by providing shelter and food.

It is thought there are about 1,000 dogs in the area overall. The guides who are compulsory for any legal visit to the zone have befriended many of the dogs and keep an eye out for them each time they visit.

Tarzan lives with the guards at the entrance to the “Duga” Radar System. A solid dog with soft yellow eyes he comes to see what treats have been squirrelled for him from breakfast. Bread with chunks of butter is enjoyed with immense pleasure. Every piece of butter is licked from the bread before he starts his tour of the area.

Being first into buildings, waiting patiently while photographs are taken he is the unofficial guide. The walk through the woodland is playtime with a stick being brought along and playing like any happy dog anywhere on the planet is part of the tour.

A little later it is time to meet Beard. She is a hairy girl with an impressive beard. Trotting across the bridge at Pripyat River Port she is happy to roll in the sunshine and have her tummy rubbed. Insistent and persistent she is healthy and happy.

The health of the Chornobyl dogs and safety considerations

All of these dogs, despite the care given by the visiting vets, the guards and the workers have a hard existence. Made harder by the background radiation levels. Whilst they look healthy and happy most never see adulthood with the majority of the dogs being no older than 5 years old.

At first, you may not notice the dogs within the zone, but their presence as an unofficial mascot is justified. There are lots of rules within the zone about what can and can’t be done or touched, but the dogs do not feature.

Petting is not an option when a large nose is pushed into your hand but sensible precautions of hand washing and awareness of the dog’s behaviour are essential. Radioactive dust sits on all the surfaces of the area and whilst uncommon, the dog’s coats may have radioactive particles that are invisible.

This is inevitable given how much lying around and sunbathing features in these dogs’ lives. However, this laid-back attitude to life does not stop them from being an integral and lighthearted part of an area with an intense past.

Photographing the Chornobyl dogs

The dogs of Chornobyl are lovely photography subjects and are willing to be photographed. However, it is sometimes difficult to distance yourself from them when all they want is affection. They will often come for some love before settling down and doing their own thing. This is the best time to take photographs. This will get them in their own world, doing their own thing.

As with any dog photography focus on the eye and make sure you are down low at eye level with them. Just remember in the exclusion zone that you can’t put your knees or hands on the ground. Photographing the dogs will make you realise why you spend time in the gym doing squats!

Look for signs of distress and if they become agitated by your presence just walk away and leave them to their life. There are more than enough dogs around that you really don’t need to hassle or stress a single individual.