Nautagil Hike – The real NASA training ground

The circular hike from Dreki to Drekagil Gorge in the Highlands of Iceland explores the lava and rocks ejected from Askja in 1875 as well as other eruptions in the area. A large number of crater types can be seen across the landscape as well as exploring the aptly name Bull Canyon at Nautagil. The walk then follows the narrow river back to Dreki.

sunset over rocks 

Everywhere you go in Iceland you are told it is where they prepared for the Apollo moon landings. It seems to be a more prevalent story on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and Golden Circle. However, it isn’t until you get to Dreki in the Highlands that the story becomes reality.

NASA in Iceland

Each summer a camp is set up at Dreki on the lower slopes of Askja volcano. However, this isn’t a normal camp for pleasure. These campers are scientists from NASA who are still utilising the landscape to prepare for space exploration. This time it is to prepare a robotic space explorer for the 2020 trip to Mars.

An annual sunset walk led by NASA shows where, how and why Dreki, Askja, Lambahraun lava field and Nautagil are still used for their training. This is an annual event run by the rangers from the centre at Dreki. It is totally free and hard work taking over three hours of walking across rough ground before a final walk along the river as the sun skims the horizon back to the camp.

Early on in the planning for the space expeditions it was realised that if any valid geological research material was to come back to Earth the astronauts needed to know what they were looking at and what would be useful to scientists back on Earth. So, as part of their training, they were taken to Dreki to work in a hostile, unknown environment for a geology crash course. The landscape in Dreki was believed to be the closest to the moon providing invaluable experiences for the astronauts.

The trail can be completed without a guide during the summer months and is clearly marked from Dreki.

Starting the Trail

The trail begins on the far side of the river from the campsite and heads along the edge of the hillside. The trail is clearly marked and undulates along the hillside. In places, the edge is sheer with the path being narrow. It is quite hardgoing as it is made up of loose volcanic ash. A strange size somewhere between sand and small gravel.

The views back towards Dreki with the vast and empty lava fields are stunning. There are numerous different craters dotted across the landscape and as the sunlight catches them they appear to glow. The route into Dreki can be seen and the true scale is immense.

The campsite at Dreki
green lichen on black lava rock
lichen growing on brown lava rocks

Ash layers

Following the ash path along the slopes mounds of lava are natural obstructions that need to be navigated. Their variety is amazing from puffy pillow effects to gloppy areas of flow as well as sharp rocks spewed out under pressure.

During the multiple eruptions of Mount Askja ash and lava have built up in stunning patterns and layers.

As time passes the harsh cold winters and extreme weather have eroded the surface to reveal patterns, a story of the volcano’s past exposed for those who take the time to explore.

These can be seen as the trail curves around just before dropping down into the canyon.

layers of black ash from a volcano
Ripples in ash layers
A ledge of ash from a volcanic eruption
Exposure to weather has exposed the layers from volcanic eruptions
Erosion through ash layers leaving shapes
ash layers against the backdrop of the landscape
Ash and lava layers with lava fields behind

Bull Canyon at Nautagil

After the layers of ash, the trail starts to head down to the river and the road beyond. Take time to look over the edge into the canyon from above before following the trail down. Just before the final drop down to the river, the path splits. The right-hand fork has towering cliffs and leads into the canyon.
At sunset the canyon is dark, but the white pebbles that form the floor lift the light slightly. These light stones tumble down the sides of the canyon making it feel narrower than it really is.

The sides tower above the canyon floor and the contrast of red rock against the white is dramatic.

After exploring the canyon follow the trail down to the river and either follow the river or the road back to Dreki and the mountain huts.

Looking down into Bull Canyon
the sides of the canyon covered in lava
the white lava ash found in the canyon
the river from Nautagil
the top of the canyon at Nautagil
looking down the canyon

Getting to Nautagil

Nautagil is located a short distance from Dreki in the Icelandic Highlands. It is reached from Route 1 along F910 or F905 (F88 should be avoided whatever the sat nav says!) and then a walk along the marked trail that initially follows the far side of the small river away from Drekagil.

The circular walk takes about 3 hours with the final stretch either following the river or the road back to Dreki. If time is limited road F910 continues from Dreki and there is a small parking area directly across the river from Nautagil.

I'm Suzanne the traveller and photographer behind Meandering Wild. With over 30 years of experience travelling to different corners of the world in search of wildlife and remote locations nearly all of the advice on this website is from my own exploring.