Marrakech photography guide
Marrakech, a walled city full of history and colour is located in the west of Morocco. As a UNESCO heritage city, the Medina, Kasbah, mosques and palaces all provide an amazing opportunity for photography. Colour is everywhere, intriguing corners emerge from the entrance to an alleyway and personalities radiate from the sellers and hustlers.
Photography Ideas for Marrakech
It would be unfair to make a top-five listicle for this amazing city. There are so many small places to explore and little things to look out for and in some ways, these little finds are far more exciting than the grand palaces and Instagram hot spots.
Some corners of the city will make you feel as if you are travelling in southern Europe while other corners will take you to the heart of North Africa and the true origins of this country.
The main attractions are always busy but taking the slow journey, sitting, watching people and following the ever-changing light while drinking mint tea can bring special moments to your photography. Care does need to be taken in Marrakech to ensure your own safety and respect the privacy and beliefs of the local residents.
Alleyways
All over the city, there are small alleyways. Some are dead ends leading nowhere, others take you on an adventure deeper into the back streets and dark corners. You will always find a way out and if you get lost there will always be someone willing to show you the way for a small payment. The alleyways are a maze of doorways, feral cats and surprises. Take time to watch the light. Some of the wider alleys have palm leaf covers and the light filtering through these during the day leads to beautiful shafts of golden light and magical shadows.
Doors and Windows
The doors and windows in the city are ornate and bold. Behind every door is a secret and hidden life. Most doors are flush to the front of the building. A narrow entranceway leads to a second door and beyond this the magical calm of the home with its open courtyard design. The doors and windows are an enticing exterior to a private interior. Hours can be wasted wandering the streets of the Medina and Kasbah looking at doors and imagining the stories behind them. On the main roads, the doors and windows are more functional, but the further into the medina you adventure the more personal and ornate they become. The door knockers are also very personal. Many have the Khomisa (Hamsa) symbol or the ‘Hand of Fatima’. A symbol of good luck or protection from evil. These intricate designs welcome visitors and at the same time protect all from evil with the central eye.
Architecture
The buildings in Marrakech range from ornate palaces with intricate details and amazing plasterwork to small homes with a shop on the ground floor and living space above. What they all have in common is a deep red finish to the plaster.
Marrakech is known as the “Red or Rose” City and as the light changes through the day the plaster of the buildings will glow in a deep and earthy red. In days gone by each medina and kasbah would be known for its colour. Standing out against the desert landscape the Red City would be seen from miles along the ancient Salt Road. The high walls and large ornate gates would protect the city and its inhabitants and also guide travellers and merchants.
All of the mosques within the city are ornate and beautiful. Entry is strictly for Muslims but the exteriors are still worth admiring. There are mosques all over the city but some of the easiest to find are..
Koutoubia Mosque is seen from Jemaa El-Fenaa and is the largest mosque in Marrakech. With a green minaret and intricate designs, it is beautiful in silhouette as the sun sets. Next to it are lush gardens and the remains of the old ablution house. Originally surrounded by booksellers its name means “the book-seller’s” mosque. The daily call to prayer starts from the minaret at this mosque and is echoed across the city. An ancient and mesmerising sound.
El Mansour Mosque in the Kasbah has sky-blue designs on the minaret and the adjacent Saadian Tombs are stunning and worth exploring. The tombs provide an insight into the design and detail that is found in the adjacent mosque.
The Ben Youssef Medrasa is located adjacent to the dominant Ben Youssef Mosque. This Islamic college was founded in the 14th Century and despite being closed in 1960 it remains the largest madrasa in Morocco.
As well as the mosques, the synagogues in Marrakech are unique. Lazama Synagogue is blue with mosaics. Situated down a narrow street behind Palais Bahia in the Old Jewish Mellah it is worth finding and exploring.
Marrakech Menara Airport is also an amazing piece of architecture. With an ornate exterior that is designed to look like a lantern, it has high ceilings and massive sweeping supports. Well worth looking up when you arrive and depart.
Palaces
The palaces in Marrakech are even more ornate than the mosques, tombs and city walls. Situated within the Medina, Palais Bahia, El Badii Palace, Dar Si Said Palace, Dar Menebhi Palace and Dar El Bachi Palace all provide a calm oasis within the bustle of the walled city. The plasterwork on the walls is detailed and the gardens and quiet spaces within these palaces are perfect for photography and exploring. Small details as well as larger details work well especially when the palaces are busy with tourists at every turn.
Squares
Whilst the squares within Marrakech are just open spaces, Jemaa El-Fenaa and the nearby and smaller Place des Ferblantiers are the perfect places to sit and watch the world go by while drinking mint tea. Photography is easy, especially if you set your camera up on the table and let it record the events as they unfold.
Jemaa El-Fenaa is busy throughout the day. During daylight hours it is busy with tourists and street sellers. A starting point for exploring the souks it really is the place to start exploring the Medina. During the day snake charmers and monkey owners are about, to try to avoid these as conditions for the animals are harsh.
As the sun sets find a cafe with a balcony and watch the square transform into a busy street market with a massive food market. From nowhere food sellers appear, enticing people in with their offers of everything from sheep brains to tagine. Any of the cafes with terraces are perfect for the sunset, but they can become busy and many request a purchase to admire the view.
Souk
The souk is magical with twisting alleyways, salesmen at every shop and light filtering through the narrow streets from high above. As day turns into night the colours change and the atmosphere calms. Deals are being made, but the mad bartering and tourist draw dissipates.
Photography within the souk is better with a small camera. Ask before photographing anything. Take time to find out about the stall holder, their goods and their lives. Finding the story behind the shop always adds to the picture. Getting lost in the souk is normal. There will always be someone who can help you find your way out for a small “gift”.
Food
Food is big in Marrakech. The night market in Jemaa El-Fenaa is all about food. The colours and aromas are fantastic. Tangia, tajine and kebabs are everywhere. Photographing food is easy especially if you eat the photograph. The stallholders love to share their menu, show their giant grills and even take your camera to get a shot of their stall that they know works.
All over the city are orange juice sellers, spice sellers, and mint stands, the list is endless. Talking to the sellers and finding out more is the perfect introduction before a few photographs are taken.
Colour
Everyone knows about the colours of Marrakech. It is intense and everywhere. Contrast is bright and can initially seem overwhelming. Take time to observe and calm your senses before indulging in a rainbow of photography.
Wildlife
This may seem like a mad comment in a busy African city, but there is wildlife to be found. The most noticeable are the street cats. Feral but friendly they sleep and lurk around restaurants and doorways. Easy to photograph as they are mainly sleeping. Most appear to be young although there are some big old toms to be found!
Marrakech also has a large number of resident storks. These reside high up on the walls of El Badii Palace and Palais Bahia. Their nests are scruffy but functional. If you want eye-level shots a number of restaurants have terraces overlooking key nests. One of these is at the top of Rue de La Kasbah by El Mansour Mosque.
Sitting in the palaces, gardens and even the riad courtyards will ensure birds are seen. Small house buntings potter around indifferent to humans, picking up small scraps of food that are left out for them.
Heading out of the city and into the High Atlas Mountains brings an abundance of wildlife including macaque monkeys, Barbary sheep and Barbary stags as well as fields of poppies and other wildflowers, passed on the way out of the city.
Flowers and Gardens
As well as the palaces which have gardens within their walls there are some beautiful hidden gardens in Marrakech. Many of the riads have beautiful gardens hidden behind their huge ornate doors, an oasis of calm from the heat and mayhem on the street.
The Agdal is the oldest and most important garden in Marrakech. Designed over 800 years ago it is open for limited periods of time but is known for its huge carp in the ancient water basin and the spectacular views to the High Atlas mountains.
Smaller and more intimate is The Menara. Built to complement the Agdal it has calm olive groves and a cooling irrigation tank.
Majorelle Gardens is a large complex with smaller gardens within. The colours of flowers and buildings collide in a frenzy. Bold and soft all at once.
Finally Le Jardin Secret really does live up to its name. With small courtyards and beautiful mosaics which complement the plants, it is a beautiful and calm oasis.
Things to Consider While Taking Photos in Marrakech
Marrakech is an amazing city to visit with great light and a myriad of subjects to photograph. Like any city, you need to think about safety. Whilst in Marrakech I never felt unsafe. The people are lovely and the majority are proud to show you their country. However, I do feel that it is important that you think about your safety and people’s attitude to photography before you arrive.
Light
The light in Marrakech is stunning. Early in the morning and just before sunset, the red walls of the city glow. It is a warm light that just makes the colours pop from the lens. During the afternoon the light is harsh. Cloudy days are rare so photography really needs to happen at either end of the day.
Sunset is magical. The sky will turn every shade of red, orange and yellow. Even after the sun has dipped below the horizon the sky will morph through a range of colours.
Safety
As with any city, there is a small chance of theft. Keeping your own safety at the forefront of your mind is good practice. Keeping to busy areas whilst safer also brings about a higher chance of pickpockets and thefts. This is especially the case in the busy Jemma El-Fnaa and the bustling streets of the souk. Keeping your camera secure and out of sight when it isn’t needed will prevent you from becoming an easy target. On the whole, Marrakech is safe, but common sense is needed.
Government buildings and security
In Morocco, it is an offence to photograph government buildings and service personnel. If you aren’t sure what a building is, move on and don’t take the risk. You also need to make sure that you avoid getting any soldiers or police in your photographs. Even if they are tucked away having tea in a corner, make sure you don’t include them.
Attitudes to photography
Despite having a large Museum of Photography, Marrakech is one of the less tolerant cities for photographers. People really don’t like having their photographs taken. Even street scenes and stalls need careful consideration. It is always polite to check if you can take a photograph but don’t be surprised if they say no. Just move on. Some people will become quite animated and even aggressive if you try to take a photograph and they see you. Again, just apologise and move on.
Marrakech: the city that distrusts photographers gives an insight into the problems encountered by even the professional photographers in this city.
Cameras and Kit for Photography in Marrakech
Given the difficulties of photography in Marrakech small and discrete is the best way to be. Getting a large DSLR and long lens out is guaranteed to make yourself obvious and less likely to get the shot you want. Inside the paid ‘tourist’ places the larger camera is fine, less so in the souk.
If you do use a DSLR camera, a 24-70 zoom lens or a 50mm prime lens is ideal. Spaces are tight and sometimes it is easier to use the zoom. Having a large aperture is also good. The souks and alleyways are dark and being able to let more light reach the sensor (a small ‘f’ number is best) without increasing your shutter speed or ISO means the image has less chance of movement or noise. However, if you do need to increase the light with the aperture wide open then increasing the ISO is the next best option.
In some areas, even with the most fancy DSLR camera, it is quicker and easier to put the camera into auto mode and let it do what it wants. Quick and discrete is essential and auto mode makes this possible.
Some of the best shots of Marrakech are taken on phones. Photographs can be taken in the moment and no one pays much attention to a phone. Photographs can be taken from the hip without much notice being taken.
For many of the souk and nighttime shots at the market, a tripod would be ideal but again for quick natural shots and safety, it is far better to work without a tripod. Walls, tables and even bins can be used to support a camera and instead of a remote exposure button using the camera’s inbuilt timer can reduce camera shake from pressing the shutter.
