A guide to the Isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides

The Isle of Lewis is found in the Outer Hebrides archipelago off Scotland’s west coast and offers a remote and unspoiled landscape that takes you to a wilderness of dramatic scenery and rich cultural heritage. At 1770km² in area, the Isle of Lewis and its adjoining area Harris form the largest of the Hebrides islands, the third largest island in Britain and home to around 21,000 inhabitants. Lewis and Harris, often seen as two islands are just one island with two distinct personalities.

The Lewis terrain is dominated by dramatic peat bogs, rocky moorlands, and winds that whip off the Atlantic. Jagged cliffs plunge into the sea, punctuated by bizarre rock stacks and formations sculpted by relentless coastal erosion. This untamed environment creates a sense of desolate remoteness. In contrast, the Harris scenery takes on a more tranquil character along its west Coast. Sprawling bays with white sandy beaches fringed by fertile machair wildflower meadows and dunes create a calmer, gentler ambience. The contours of the North Harris mountains reaching nearly 750 metres soften to rolling hills and seaside lochs sheltered from the full brunt of the ocean winds and form the transition from the rugged landscapes of Lewis to the calm of Harris.

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This geography has allowed Lewis to preserve landscapes virtually unchanged for millennia. Ancient sites like the 5,000-year-old Callanish Standing Stones provide glimpses into the island’s prehistoric past. Clusters of thatched-roof blackhouses, traditional stone and thatch dwellings once home to crofting communities, further connect the present to Lewis’ history of small settlements living off the land and sea.

The island’s unspoiled habitats support diverse flora and fauna, from the unique wildflower machair to iconic wildlife like golden eagles, corncrakes and common seals. Deer and otters are a common sight across the island. Following the Whale Trail along the coast will allow you to see minke whales, dolphins, porpoises, orcas and basking sharks passing the island or they may follow the ferry on the way to the island as your welcoming party. Conservation areas like the Lewis Peatlands and the South Lewis, Harris and Uist National Scenic Area protect these fragile ecosystems.

My visit to Lewis was my first Outer Hebrides experience and despite being at home on Orkney, this island took Orkney time, a slow pace of life, and slowed it down even more. Without hundreds of tourists, there was no hurry to get to places ‘before the buses’. The days fell into a pattern governed by the ever-changing light and the weather. I was making the most of dramatic skies and beautiful light when it appeared and hunkering down somewhere cosy and warm when it all became too wild. The distances on Lewis are not huge, but the roads are small and winding making every journey longer than planned. With landscape views opening up on every corner there were unexpected stops to pause and absorb the big skies.

When to visit the Isle of Lewis

Despite their northerly location, the Outer Hebrides benefit from the warming influence of the Gulf Stream current, resulting in a milder climate than you might expect. No matter what time of year, rapidly changing weather is to be expected in this remote island environment., so you should pack plenty of warm layers and waterproof clothing to be prepared for changeable conditions.

The peak tourist season runs from April through October. Summer, especially July, sees the warmest temperatures with average highs around 18°C/65°F as well as extended daylight hours – it never gets completely dark during the summer solstice period. But biting midges can be a nuisance in summer evenings, so insect repellent is advisable.

Late spring offers the opportunity to witness breeding seabird colonies and the delicately coloured machair while autumn brings the drama of the deer rut, and is prime whale and dolphin watching season as marine life migrates through the coastal waters. Winters are typically stormy, with average highs of just 8°C/46°F and lows around 2°C/36°F. The rainiest months are November and December, while January and February are often frosty and colder. Despite cooler temperatures, winter has its own stark beauty when the moorlands are frosted and the northern lights can be seen on clear nights

how to get to Lewis

Accessing Lewis requires a combination of transportation modes from the Scottish mainland. You can fly to Stornoway Airport on Lewis via a short hop from Glasgow, Edinburgh or Inverness with LoganAir. Alternatively, CalMac ferries run between the port town of Ullapool on the Scottish mainland and Stornoway on Lewis, as well as from Uig on the Isle of Skye to Tarbert on Harris. The journey takes 2-3 hours by sea from Ullapool or just under 2 hours from Uig and it can be lumpy even in the summer crossing The Minch. The crossings can be busy, especially in the summer months so make sure you book your crossing at least a few days in advance,

Getting around the Isle of Lewis

The island has some public transport but bus services are sporadic and it is much better to have your own transport so you can explore at your own pace and stop when you want. You can hire a car on the island from Stornoway Airport or the ferry terminal at Tarbert or Stornoway. You can also pick up a hire car on the mainland and bring it over on the ferry. If you do this you can still book the ferry in advance without knowing the car details. It is always best to book the car for pick up so it is ready when you arrive.

Driving on Lewis takes much longer than expected. The roads are narrow and winding and there are often sheep in the road. Always keep an eye on the road ahead and behind you and use the passing places to allow faster drivers to pass. You should also make sure you stop in safe places keeping gates and driveways clear.

If driving is not what you want to do then Rabbie’s Tours offers a beautiful trip around the Outer Hebrides. This tour includes Lewis and if you want a longer period they have some other trips.

Where to stay on the Isle of Lewis

When it comes to finding places to stay on Lewis, there is a range of accommodation choices to fit different budgets and travel styles, but in the summer you need to book ahead to get. For a truly unique experience, holiday cottages like the eco-friendly Liosbeag Cottage lets you stay within sight of the beach, an experience that cannot be forgotten.

The Gearrannan Blackhouse Village offers another taste of traditional island life by allowing guests to overnight in renovated blackhouses. Camping is permitted at locations like Ardroil Beach, providing affordable stays with unbeatable coastal views. If you want to explore Lewis with a bit of luxury then Lews Castle may be for you, now converted into self-catering apartments within the grand 19th-century estate.