3 Day Patagonia Trek From Pampa Linda To Puerto Blest

While most people think of southern Argentina and Chile for hiking in Patagonia, the northern Lake District has some stunning hikes which are relatively untouched. This hike from Pampa Linda takes 3-days and includes two nights in the mountains. The first night is spent in the shadow of Cerro Tronador at Refugio Otto Meiling while the second night is spent at Agostino Rocca Hut with views down the Frías valley.

The hike can be completed in a variety of ways. It is possible to hike from Pampa Linda to Refugio Otto Meiling or Agostino Rocca Hut in a day and return on the second day, or similarly, hike from Lago Frías to Agostino Rocca Hut in a day returning after a night in the hut or continue through to Pampa Linda.

The three-day route is from Pampa Linda to Puerto Blest and includes the traverse of Glacier Alerce which needs a guide. These can be arranged in Bariloche and they will help with transfers and accommodation. If you are completing any stages of this hike without a guide then always ensure your plans are lodged and you book your accommodation in advance.

The hike is extreme even for those used to hiking and should only be attempted from November to April when the snow has melted. We completed this hike in February when the days were warm and there was minimal snow.

one of the many plants seen on the hike to Cerro Tronador

How to get to Pampa Linda

This hike starts in Pampa Linda which is 73km from Bariloche. The quickest route by road is following RN40 to Villa Mascardi and then continuing to follow the shore of the lake on PR84 into the village.

If you do not have your own transport and are hiking through to Puerto Blest, then it is best to arrange transport. Refugio Otto Meiling provides a shuttle bus from Bariloche to Pampa Linda. There are restrictions on the direction of travel around Pampa Linda as the roads are narrow so the schedule works around these times.

Day 1 – Pampa Linda to Refugio Otto Meiling

Hike distance: 13km
Elevation gain: 1050m
Hike time: 5-7 hours
Trail map: Pampa Linda to Refugio Otto Meiling

Forest track

The path starts as a wide dust track, from the hotel at Pampa Linda and the Park Rangers Office, slowly heading gently upwards with the option to follow the road the long way or use the footbridges and footpaths to head up into the forest. After 3km of flat tracks, you arrive at Castaño Overa bridge.

A 6km hike with a 500 metre gain then takes you through the forest which is full of life and colour with streams for water refills and plenty of wild bits to keep the interest going. Condors fly high above the trees, glimpsed as the path opens out.

forst view of tronador through the trees

After two hours of 4×4 track, the path became narrow and the hard slog of switchbacks started. A slow and steady pace for an hour gets you to the top where there is a lovely glade in the trees called “La Almohadilla”, perfect for a short stop and time to recover.

After the switchbacks, the path opens out and becomes more rugged before reaching a large grassy viewpoint called “La Almohadilla”. This is the last point for the horses that take people and gear through the initial climb.

Above the tree line

After a short stop in the clearing, the tree line recedes and the landscape becomes rugged. Volcanic boulders and dust make the path interesting and as you head higher snow starts to appear. The waterfalls from Glaciar Castaño Overo tumble noisily to the valley floor below as you slowly trudge ever higher toward Cerro Tronador. The streams are much smaller on the mountainside, but the flowers that were surviving on their rocky banks are compact and bright.

As the path neared Refugio Otto Meiling, the surrounding views became more open with panoramas in all directions. The intensity of the path is insignificant with the stops for photographs and time to absorb how amazing the scenery surrounding the path has become. The final 2km is exposed and windy but with the refuge in sight, it is easy to keep going.

Refugio Otto Meiling

Refugio Otto Meiling sits at 2000m on Cerro Tronador between Glacier Castaño Overo and Glacier Alerce. It sleeps 60 and the night we were there it was full with people sleeping under the stars when the compact dormitory became stifling.

The location of this mountain hut makes up for the sleeping arrangements 100-fold. The views are stunning across the glaciers to Pampa Linda, Valle Paso de Las Nubes (the trek for the next day), Cerros López and Catedral. In the distance, it is possible to see Lanín volcano as well as Cerro Yate in Chile. From the hut, it is possible to explore Cerro Tronador further or traverse Glacier Alerce and follow the forest to Lago Frías. The biggest treat at Refugio Otto Meiling is the food. Cooked by the trainee mountain guides, this was possibly the best meal we had in Argentina. Knowing that the food is prepared in a small kitchen at 2000m with everything having to be carried in made it even more special!

Leaving Refugio Otto Meiling

The options for leaving this remote hut are limited. A return trek back to Pampa Linda is possible, heading down the switchbacks and back along the valley following Rio Castaño Overo. The alternative is to traverse Glacier Alerce and then walk the two-day route to Lago Frías. This follows the Paso de Las Nubes with an overnight stay at the new Refugio Agostino Rocca.

Day 2 – Glaciar Alerce and Paso de las Nubes

Hike distance: 5km
Elevation gain: 480m
Hike time: 4-5 hours plus 1 hour glacier crossing
Trail map: Glacier Alerce traverse

Glaciar Alerce was glowing in the morning light. Viewed on our arrival at Refugio Otto Meiling the night before it glistened in the morning light, picking up the reds and golds of the magical sunrise and alpenglow that filled the air first thing in the morning. After a warm night, the fresh mountain air was a welcome relief and setting off down the rugged path to the edge of the glacier the sheer scale of the mountain began to hit home.

Crossing Glaciar Alerce

The crossing of the glacier has to be completed with a qualified mountain guide. You will need crampons, and helmets and will make the crossing roped to your guide. The glacier is initially solid, but crevasses appear as you near the far side. The crevasses appear to be deep with a layer of dust running through the glacier.

Coming down from the glacier is hard, abseiling a single rope to the solid rock below. Small lakes at the base are beautiful and appealing. This is a great spot to wait for everyone to cross, have a dip and get ready for the remainder of the trek. Extending out in front of you is a basalt pathway, a reminder of the volcanic origin of the mountain. Views lead down the valley to Lago Frías and the mountains beyond

The trek from Glaciar Alerce to the start of the Paso de Las Nubes is rugged and complicated but has amazing views of the glacier, reflecting light in beautiful shades of blue. The small heart-shaped Laguna Alerce is turquoise from the refraction of light on small particles from the glacier dust and is perfectly situated at the base of the glacier in a valley.

Paso de las Nubes

From the moment you step off the glacier, your destination for the next two days of trekking comes into view. Perched on an outcrop of rock was the first overnight stop at Refugio Agostino Rocca and beyond that Lago Frías.

Paso de Las Nubes means Pass of the Clouds and cuts through the mountains at 1335m. It is easy to see as you come down from the glacier how this pass could sit in the clouds on a less-than-stunning day. Coming through the pass is hard with steep sections and just a chain to help, but the stunning scenery makes up for this difficulty. Keep an eye and ear out for the condors that circle in the area.

Each step of the descent takes you closer to life, the flowers become more frequent and the rocks change from black rugged basalt and other volcanic rocks to granite with amazing colours running through the centre.

Finally, the hard descent turns into a gentle stroll through an open valley. Trees emerge the closer you get to the refugio and the rugged beauty of the high mountains is replaced with a gentle flowering landscape.

Refugio Agostino Rocco

This mountain hut is less basic than Refugio Otto Meiling and has a fantastic atmosphere. It has a mix of ages including school groups, but there is more than enough space to watch the sunset down the valley.

Day 3 – Refugio Agostino Rocco to Lago Frías

Hike distance: 12km
Elevation gain: 680m
Hike time: 6 hours
Trail map: Refugio Agostino Rocco to Puerto Blest

This day is the only day that has a time limit. You have to be in Lago Frías to meet the boat or you miss the second boat to Puerto Blest. Neither will wait.

Woodland Scramble

The first part of the day was downhill through an ancient Lenga forest. Moss hangs from the trees and strange plants fall over the pathway. Birdsong is heard in the trees for the first time since leaving the woodland close to Pampa Linda. There were fallen trees and trees growing all over the path. It is a scramble, over under and in some places through the trees.

Fallen trees are left in the Argentinian National Parks. Paths are cut through them, but they are never removed. The woodland floor is covered in Choisya, a lemon-scented flower that fills every available space and is filled with creepy crawlies, spiders and bugs.

Thunder Mountain and Glacier Frías

Heading down the rocky path into the valley you will hear the thundering echo that gives Monte Tronador its name of Thunder Mountain. Huge séracs fall from the glacier causing an echoing rumble that is heard from miles away. Glacier Frías fills the river in this valley, rainbows of colour in the multiple waterfalls that tumble down the sheer cliff face. The plateau is covered in grasses and coloured plants, the start of colour again.

RIO FRÍAS VALLEY

After the steep downhill through the initial woodland, the path flattens out along the valley. This is the easiest walking during the entire trek. The path is wide and passes through Valdivian forest. The trees that have fallen now have wide walkways ‘through’ them and there is life to enjoy along the way. In places, the path is boggy, but well-placed boardwalks help navigate the soggy mud. It is surprising how quickly the ferns and moisture-loving plants appeared once the shade returned.

RÍO FRÍAS

As the valley widens the river becomes wider. The suspended particles from the glacier churn the river into a brown racing mess. The bridges become higher and more adventurous with a hanging bridge to cross the Frías River after 9km. At the same time, the path flattens and becomes a lot hotter and drier.

LAGO FRÍAS

After what seems like forever you will catch a glimpse of Lago Frías. This is the first sight since leaving Refugio Rocco 8 hours earlier. The turquoise of the glacier water is enhanced by the blue of the blazing sunshine in the blue sky. The cruise across the lake to Puerto Alegre is beautiful. The mountains recede into the distance as the bend in the lake approaches.

PEURTO BLEST

A short bus ride from Peurto Alegre takes you to the bustling ski resort of Peurto Blest and the jetty for the cruise back to Bariloche. This takes you along Lago Nahuel Huapi to Bariloche and the end of the hike.