Brunnhorn, Eystrahorn and Hvalnes, Iceland
A long spit of black beach runs parallel to Road 1 shortly after the tunnel from Höfn, the sea lies beyond. Birds including whooper swans feed and tend their young in this protected lagoon and Lonsfjordur and Alftafjordur further north. Hvalnes or Whale Point is the final point of a ridge including Eystrahorn Mountain, Vestrahorn Mountain and Brunnhorn Mountain in a spiky run of horn-like peaks.
Before reaching Hvalnes, the road passes the small hamlet of Stafafell with its small church and the nearby random red chair. A bit of a weird find, but a stop with stunning views back towards Brunnhorn and Vestrahorn.
Stafafellskirkja
As you leave the tunnel from Höfn looking back you hope to see Vestrahorn Mountain and Stokksnes but instead, a new mountain appears. It is not like any seen before and from this angle, it really does look like the Batman mountain. It disappears for a time as the road snakes around, but as you approach the small village and pretty church of Stafafell there is no doubting its outline. It blends into the landscape from Vestrahorn, just another peak, but in isolation from the east, there is no doubting its presence.
Brunnahorn (batman mountain) and the red chair
To add to this surreal feeling as you approach a small place on the map called Fjörur an oversized red chair sits proudly on the side of the road. However, this red chair is there for a reason that someone must know but isn’t saying.
Maybe it is where the trolls sit on a winter night and watch the stars. Attached to a rock it comes and goes, sometimes it is reported as missing only for it to return.
It is, however perfectly placed to sit and admire the view back towards Brunnahorn mountain and the exposed coastline.
Hvalnes Lighthouse
Hvalnes Lighthouse is bright orange concrete and stands 11.5 meters (38 feet) high with a radio mast very close by. It was constructed in 1954 by Axel Sveinsson and designed by Einar Stefánsson and became operational in 1955. The light is still in operation with two white flashes every 20 seconds. Look out to sea for glimpses of Arctic skuas and great skuas and gannets plunging into the ocean at speed.
In 1912 the small cove to the south of the mountain and lighthouse became an authorised trading post due to its proximity to good fishing grounds. However, all that remains today is the ruins of a turf farm and buildings. The beach by the lighthouse is black, but rather than sand it is a mass of small rounded black pebbles. All are smoothed after time spent rolling around in the endless surf.
Hvalnes Nature Reserve
From the lighthouse, it is possible to see the lagoon and black sand beach that makes up the small nature reserve protected by the imposing Estrahorn Mountain. Wading birds can be found here during the year and whooper swans can be seen in the late summer.
It is possible to walk along the beach from the smaller car park and from here you have views of the birdlife in the lagoon and any passing sea life along the coast. As with all beaches in Iceland, you should watch for waves and be aware of your surroundings.
Eystrahorn
Eystrahorn is at the far end of this coastal mountain ridge standing above the nature reserve. Rising 756 metres from the shoreline it is an often overlooked peak. Nearby is the more famous Vestrahorn, but this neighbour is equally impressive.
It is composed of gabbro and granophyre rocks, but the slippery steep scree makes it difficult to climb. It has an imposing feel. Caught in the afternoon sunlight the shadows highlight the different rocks as well as the small coating of scree over the lower slopes.
Getting to Stafafell, Eystrahorn and Hvalnes Lighthouse
Hvalnes is 50km east of Höfn in the far southeast of Iceland. Shortly after the tunnel out of Höfn you will see the ridge of Eystrahorn to the left dropping down into the lagoon with the black sand beach beyond. There are no facilities but it is a safe area for a walk.
There is a large parking area at the far end of the lagoon by the lighthouse and a smaller parking area just before that is ideal if you want to walk along the beach and do some birdwatching.
- Ring Road 1, 50km east of Höfn
- Find Hvalnes on Google Maps
- Discover the red chair on Google Maps (be aware the chair comes and goes!)
- Stafafell Church on Google Maps
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