Birdoswald Roman Fort and Lanercost Priory, Cumbria

Birdoswald Roman Fort originally known as Banna is located towards the western end of Hadrian’s Wall just 17 miles from the county town and city of Carlisle.

One of 16 forts along the UNESCO World Heritage Roman Wall it is still visible today and is unusual in the continuation of use even after the Romans abandoned the site in about AD500. The ruins sit on an escarpment with views across the Cumbrian countryside.

A short distance from Birdoswald Roman Fort is Lanercost Priory. This Augustinian priory was destroyed in 1538 by Henry VIII and is now in ruins.

Birdoswald Roman Fort ruins in cumbria

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The History of Birdoswald

Birdoswald was established in AD113 and was initially named Banna which means “horn” in Celtic and describes the position of the fort on a triangular outcrop of land perfectly. Cliffs drop sharply down to the surrounding countryside from the fort and the River Irthing runs close to the base of the cliffs. This whole area was originally a boggy swamp and was drained by the Romans before the foundations of the fort were laid. It was linked by a Roman road known as the Maiden Way, to another fort called Bewcastle. This fort is seven miles away but signal towers allowed signals to be sent between the two forts.

Landscape around Birdoswald Roman Fort

Hadrian’s Wall was originally made of turf with the stone fort being built sometime after the initial wall was built. The fort would have had three gates to the east, west and south with a main central building, granary and barracks. A cemetery has also been found containing several urns. The fort also had an exercise building which was used for training soldiers in the harsher northern climate. The men stationed at Banna were Dacians from modern-day Romania who would have been used to the cold winters, but even so, indoor training was essential. In about AD130 the wall was rebuilt with stone and was moved further north to line up with the northern wall of the fort. This wall remains today and the 2-mile section is the longest intact section of the whole wall.

Hadrian's Wall with sun beams

At the foot of the escarpment is the remains of Willowford Bridge. This allowed Hadrian’s Wall to cross the river. While the river has changed course, the remains of the bridge can still be seen. A new bridge lowered into position by an RAF Chinook helicopter takes the footpath from Birdoswald across the river the Willowford Bridge.

Metal bridge over small river

Birdoswald Fort Today

Birdoswald is unusual in that when it was abandoned in about AD500 it continued to be used. It was first documented in 1211 when Walter de Beivin was farming the land. He used the solid Roman buildings as the foundation for his farm which continued to be used into the early modern period. It was ideal as it was protected from the harsh northern weather as well as protection from the ongoing disputes in the Scottish Borders. This type of fortified farmhouse is known as a bastle house.

The fort at Birdoswald is now in ruins but the footprint of the buildings can still be seen. They are laid out in front of the more modern farmhouse which was built in 1745. This houses the visitor’s centre. A circular walk takes you a short distance along the wall, past four-mile castle turrets before dropping down to the river and the remains of Willowford Bridge. 

Hadrian’s Wall runs from the fort out across the hilly landscape towards Housesteads Fort further east and Sycamore Gap, where the iconic tree from Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves used to stand. The rough terrain adds to the character of the wall that goes up and down steep embankments, meanders across fields and doesn’t always meet where it should. Look carefully as there are marks made by soldiers and other Roman workers.

plant growing out of Hadrian's Wall

Lanercost Priory and Walter de Bevin

Walter de Bevin gave land to the nearby Lanercost Priory which was founded in 1169 and dissolved in 1538 by Henry VIII. Since this time the Priory has fallen into disrepair in a similar way to many other church buildings from this time period but can be visited just a short distance from Birdoswald Roman Fort.

As well as the ruined buildings it has a large graveyard with beautiful headstones that tell the story of the villagers through time. At sunset the red sandstone glows a deep russet in the golden light.

Red Lanercost Priory
Lanercost Priory and graveyard

Getting to Birdoswald Roman Fort and Lanercost Priory

Birdoswald Roman Fort is located just outside Carlisle on the A69 towards Hexham close to the village of Gilsland. It is signposted and there is a large parking area. It is managed by English Heritage.

Lanercost Priory is 4 miles from Birdoswald along small country roads. It is visible as you drive through the picturesque village of Lanercost. There is parking close to the priory and as with Birdoswald, it is managed by English Heritage.

I'm Suzanne the traveller and photographer behind Meandering Wild. With over 30 years of experience travelling to different corners of the world in search of wildlife and remote locations nearly all of the advice on this website is from my own exploring.