A Guide To The Maasai Mara
There’s nowhere quite like the Maasai Mara. Rolling grasslands stretch out for as far as the eye can see, broken only by the silhouette of lonely acacia trees or perhaps a herd of elephants slowly moving across the horizon, the sky glowing red behind them as the sun gradually rises.
Nestled within the Great Rift Valley in southwestern Kenya, the Maasai Mara is home to a remarkable variety of animals, including the Big Five (lion, elephant, buffalo, rhino and leopard).
It’s one of the best places in Africa to see big cats, with high densities of lions, leopards and cheetahs.
Perhaps the highlight of a visit to the Maasai Mara, however, takes place between July and October each year, when the Great Wildebeest Migration crosses over from the Serengeti in Tanzania to the south, crossing the crocodile-infested Mara River as they search for fresh grass in the Maasai Mara.
Being Kenya’s flagship safari destination, the Maasai Mara isn’t quite a hidden gem. However, my experience visiting has shown me time and time again that its popularity is well deserved, and no Kenya safari is complete without allocating at least a couple of nights here.
Natural Habitat
Located in southwestern Kenya, just south of the equator, the Maasai Mara is a vast expanse of open savannah perched over 1,800 metres above sea level. Its foundations are truly ancient, formed of rock, volcanic lava and eroded deposits that date back over 600 million years. The fertile volcanic soils here have facilitated the development of a multi-ecosystem landscape that harbours one of the densest, most diverse collections of wildlife on earth.
The Maasai Mara is made up of the core Maasai Mara National Reserve as well as a growing number of surrounding private conservancies. Instead of being managed by the government like the national reserve, the conservancies are owned and managed by the native Maasai community.
The national reserve itself covers 579 square miles (1,510 square kilometres). The 24 surrounding conservancies roughly double the size of the protected area.
The Maasai Mara is also part of the greater Serengeti ecosystem, which encompasses 11,583 square miles (30,000 km2) of unfenced wilderness, stretching from Lake Eyasi in southern Tanzania to the Mara in Kenya. This absence of barriers allows wildlife to pass freely between the Maasai Mara and the wider Serengeti region.
The terrain is mainly open grassland dotted with acacia trees, from which the park derives its name: the word ‘Mara’ means ‘spotted’ in the Maasai language. The grasslands sustain a wide range of grazers, including Thomson’s gazelles, Grant’s gazelles, impalas, zebras, topis and hartebeests.
Between July and October, the plains are packed with herds of wildebeest who have journeyed here all the way from Serengeti’s southern plains. These huge numbers of wildebeest are particularly essential to the ecosystem, fertilising the savannah with their dung and encouraging grass regrowth through grazing.
A number of rivers wind through the Mara ecosystem, including the Talek and Mara Rivers. These rivers are bordered by lush riverine forest that is home to elephants, buffalo, baboons, hippos, and hundreds of crocodiles
A key feature of the Maasai Mara is the dramatic Oloololo Escarpment, which rises sharply above the plains to the west, offering dramatic, sweeping views of the savannah below, while the sandy Ngama Hills to the east are a favourite haunt for black rhinos thanks to their dense vegetation.
Although the reserve is situated on the equator, its considerable altitude means that morning and evening temperatures can be surprisingly chill, dropping as low as 10 °C (50°F) during the dry season (June-October).
Wildlife to See
Stunning as the scenery in the Maasai Mara is, you’re here primarily to see wildlife – and believe me, you will not be disappointed! The park’s lions are so bold that they think nothing of sprawling right across its dirt tracks without so much as a glance at the safari vehicles passing by. I’ve not had a day pass by me in the Maasai Mara without encountering a lion or two!
Lions are only the tip of the iceberg. Below, I have outlined some of the key species that you can hope to encounter on a visit to the Maasai Mara.
Lions (Panthera leo)
With an estimated 200 to 400 individuals roaming freely within the reserve, the Maasai Mara is one of the best places in Africa to see lions. Lion density reaches as high as 25 to 30 per 100 km2 in prime viewing areas, compared with around 3.5 per 100 km2 in the Serengeti and about 5 per 100 km2 in Kruger.
You’d have to be extremely unlucky not to see a lion on your visit to the Maasai Mara, especially if you’re visiting for at least one full day.
I’ve had some of my best-ever lion sightings in the Maasai Mara, including a coalition of five young male lions stalking some zebras. Their hunt was unsuccessful, but it was still incredible to see how they coordinated as a team, silently spreading out to lure them into an ambush.
Leopards (Panthera pardus)
While healthy numbers of leopards are present in the Maasai Mara, these animals are rather reclusive and solitary and are therefore more difficult to spot than other big cats. As they prefer to hunt at night, they generally spend their days resting in the trees or beneath bushes, where their excellent camouflage often hides them from all eyes but those of expert guides!
Home to Leopard Gorge, which you may remember from the iconic BBC series ‘Big Cat Diaries’, Mara North Conservancy is particularly good for leopard sightings. In fact, one of my best ever leopard sightings was in Mara North, when I saw a female leopard called Ndoto pounce on a baby warthog, dragging it up a tree to keep it away from some nearby hyenas, which were eyeing it greedily.
Given their elusive nature, I’d recommend giving yourself at least 3 days of safari in the Maasai Mara to boost your chances of a leopard sighting.
Cheetahs (Acinonyx jubatus)
The Maasai Mara’s vast swathes of grassland are a haven for cheetahs, allowing them to use their impressive speed efficiently to chase down their prey. They can be found throughout the reserve. Cheetahs don’t have fixed territories and roam large distances. They require wide spaces of open grasslands to hunt, so these are the areas where they’re more likely to be found.
One of the most memorable cheetah sightings I’ve had was when we happened upon a mother cheetah called Nashipae with her four adorable, fluffy cubs. They were only a few months old and bursting with energy and mischief. We watched them for hours, running around in the grass, play-fighting with one another and jumping on their poor mother, who tolerated their antics very patiently!
Black Rhinos (Diceros bicornis)
By far the hardest of the Big Five to spot in the Maasai Mara, the reserve is home to an estimated 30 – 50 black rhinos.
They are solitary, shy creatures and tend to spend most of their time staying hidden in thick vegetation due to their browsing nature.
The dry season between June and October is actually the most challenging time to see them. At other times of the year, rain is more abundant and encourages new grass growth. The long grass encourages the rhinos out into the open to feed, making sightings more likely.
I’ve been lucky enough to see rhinos on not just one, but two visits to the Maasai Mara! The Mara Triangle is a good area for potential sightings, and having a guide with you is a huge help.
African Elephants (Loxodonta africana)
Elephant herds are frequently observed crossing the open grassland, and are so used to safari vehicles that they often walk past at remarkably close range, completely unbothered by your presence.
I don’t want to jinx you by saying you’re sure to see elephants during your time in the Mara, but honestly, you’d have to have the world’s worst luck not to see a single one while visiting! Their sheer numbers and massive bulk make them extremely easy to spot across the open plains.
I’ve had many incredible elephant sightings in the Mara, but I think my favourite was when we encountered a huge breeding herd right by the road during a dramatic thunderstorm. They were silhouetted against a dark, brooding sky, behind which was illuminated every few seconds by a claw-scratch of lightning as the thunder rolled around us. It was nothing short of magical.
Cape Buffalo (Syncerus caffer)
Among the more than 95 mammal species that call the reserve home are the Cape buffalo. They can be found in huge herds, often hundreds of members strong, across the savannah.
Buffaloes have a reputation as being one of the most dangerous African mammals to come across on foot, as, unlike other animals, they don’t mock charge, instead launching straight into the real thing! Thankfully, they are much more docile around vehicles and don’t so much as bat an eyelid at them, even if you drive straight through the middle of a herd.
The Great Wildebeest Migration
Every year between July and October, the Maasai Mara becomes the stage for one of the most spectacular shows nature has to offer: the Great Wildebeest Migration. This event, the second largest terrestrial mammal migration on earth, sees in excess of 1.5 million wildebeest travel an 800-mile clockwise loop through the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem alongside hundreds of thousands of zebras and gazelles in columns up to 40 kilometres long.
One of the high points of the migration is the Mara River crossings, when the herds dash down the steep banks into the churning waters, battling strong currents and trying desperately to elude the ravenous Nile crocodiles as they go.
You will need to be patient when watching the river crossings, as they generally only last a few minutes at a time, often stopping as abruptly as they start. As herds can take hours or even days to muster up the courage to make a break for it, I’d strongly recommend spending at least two full days in the Maasai Mara to maximise your chances of seeing a crossing.
You can increase your chances even further by opting for a combined Kenya and Tanzania safari, viewing the great herds from Northern Serengeti in Tanzania, in addition to the Maasai Mara.
Birdlife
Home to more than 500 bird species, the Maasai Mara is a birder’s paradise. Among the raptors that call this place home is the martial eagle (Polemaeles bellicosus), Africa’s largest eagle with a wingspan of around 2.6 metres. The golden-yellow Usambiro barbet is strictly endemic to the Maasai Mara and Serengeti, while the exquisite colours of the lilac-breasted roller have made it a firm favourite with photographers.
But my own absolute favourite is the secretary bird. I love to see them marching gracefully over the plains, with the distinctive feathers on their heads. They really do look like they’re clip-clopping along in high heels – you can definitely see where they get their name from!
Conservation Efforts
Kenya has a proven track record when it comes to conservation. The country banned hunting in 1977, being among the first African countries to do so, and has only become more determined in its conservation efforts ever since. In 2016, for example, the Kenyan government burned some 105 tonnes of seized elephant tusks in Nairobi to show that ivory has no commercial value.
That bold act has shaped how the Maasai Mara is safeguarded today, with a range of conservation programmes, community partnerships and ranger patrols in place to protect some of the continent’s most vulnerable species. Conservation measures here are aimed mainly at combating poaching, habitat destruction and conflict between wildlife and humans. Government agencies, NGOs and local communities work closely together to ensure the success of these efforts.
Perhaps the most effective of all conservation measures in the Mara has been the conservancy model. The Maasai Mara Wildlife Conservancies Association (MMWCA) manages 24 conservancies spanning 695 square miles of land bordering the reserve and owned by 15,000 Maasai landowners. The Maasai lease the land to lodges in return for a monthly income. For their part, the lodges provide employment and tourism revenue. The success of this initiative is clearly visible: land that was overgrazed before has now been transformed into wilderness, with flourishing wildlife and vegetation, with the support of the local population.
Many parks and reserves across the world have strict policies about only helping wildlife if the cause of injury was humans. The Maasai Mara, however, is different and steps in to assist its wildlife, even if the cause of injury was natural. Species such as cheetahs are very much struggling, and so every individual is important to the survival of the species.
One charity that is doing tremendous work is the Mara Predator Conservation Program. They have been fitting lions, cheetahs, and other predators with satellite tracking collars. These track the animals, identifying their preferred habitats and alerting workers if an animal stops moving, as this may be an indicator of distress, injury, or death. Where an animal appears to be stationary, veterinary teams are deployed to investigate.
Despite so many positive steps forward, human-wildlife conflict also remains a key challenge, as I saw for myself when I witnessed a group of male lions stalking a herd of Maasai cattle in the Mara North Conservancy. Fortunately, the guides quickly drove to warn the herders and the cattle were moved to safety. The Lion Trust Fund employs lion ambassadors to raise awareness in communities and propose solutions that will allow predators and livestock to coexist in peace.
Know Before You Go
How to Get to the Maasai Mara
Located around 270 kilometres south-west of Nairobi, the Maasai Mara is about a 5 – 6-hour drive from the Kenyan capital. The scenic road trip from Nairobi will bring you through Narok Town, which is located roughly at the halfway point. You can use the washroom and pick up some snacks and local crafts here before continuing on to the reserve.
If you’re driving from Nairobi, try to leave between 7am and 8am to dodge the worst of the traffic.
Alternatively, you could also opt to fly instead – a propeller plane flight from Nairobi’s Wilson Airport will take approximately 1.5 hours and set you back between $250 and $450 per person each way. Flying is a great way to save time and take in the views from a unique perspective if your budget allows.
When to Visit the Maasai Mara
The Maasai Mara is pretty much a year-round destination. I say ‘pretty much’ as mid-March to mid-May can get pretty wet, which causes some hindrances to a visit by making some roads through the Mara impassible. Still, this can be a lovely time to visit as the reserve is significantly quieter, and the bright green landscape and dramatic skies make for some lovely photography.
When planning your trip, park fees are a high cost to factor in. These can vary considerably depending on the time of year: in peak season (July-December), the fee is $200 per day plus 18% tax for non-resident adults, while the cost in low season (January-June) decreases to $100 plus 18% tax.
Where to Stay
There are an abundance of lodges and tented camps on the perimeter of the national reserve and a handful within the reserve itself. You can enjoy cost savings by staying outside the reserve. However, be mindful that your reserve permit is only valid for a single 12-hour entry, and so you cannot go back to your lodge for lunch during the day and instead need to stay out all day to make the most of your permit.
Staying within the reserve makes things simpler as you can go back to your lodge whenever you please during the day. However, there are no budget options within the reserve, with the most reasonably priced lodge starting from $300 per person per night.
The Mara Conservancies are perhaps the best places to stay, as these private pieces of land are significantly quieter than the main reserve and allow you to get off-road to get closer to wildlife. Lodges within the conservancies are priced at a premium due to the limited number of them.
Maasai Mara Safari
Thanks to its open grasslands and high predator density, the Mara is among Africa’s most rewarding safari destinations. I’ve had some of my best-ever wildlife sightings here. What’s more, tourism directly supports the people and organisations working to preserve this ecosystem for future generations. All the more reason to plan your trip now!
The Maasai Mara was experienced by Ella McKendrick
