A journey through Iceland’s gannet colonies

The gannets in Iceland are hidden away in some of the more remote areas, but with some planning and exploring they can be found. Soaring along cliffsides, the gannet (Morus bassanus) is one of Iceland’s most recognizable seabirds. With its striking black and white plumage and 3-metre wingspan, this largest member of the booby and gannet family makes an impressive sight whether circling over the sea or diving for fish.

Approximately 60% of the world’s northern gannets breed in Iceland, flocking to nesting colonies on sea cliffs and remote offshore islands during spring and summer months. After months spent out on North Atlantic waters, Icelandic colonies swell come April as mating pairs return from southern waters and undertake the critical process of nest-building and rearing chicks.

Nesting on the cliffs as they do in Shetland and Bempton Cliffs in the UK, the birds are pushed for space as is the way in most gannet colonies. However, it is noticeable here in the far north of the Atlantic that their nests whilst still containing man-made materials are far more natural in their content. Unlike other seabirds, the population of gannets in Iceland is increasing by around 2% each year and is currently estimated to be 37,000 breeding pairs.

By the end of July, the gannet chicks are hatched and range from small fluffy bundles to black feathered scraggy creatures. The parents are busy tending to their young, the 90-day clock until they leave ticking continually. The weather is harsh this far north and the adult gannets have to work hard to rear their young before leaving Iceland for the winter.

Eldey Island

The largest population of gannets in Iceland is at Eldey Island where about half the Icelandic population breeds. It is estimated that over 70,000 birds make the island their home. Eldey Island can be seen from Reykjanes Peninsula in the far southwest of Iceland. It is an isolated lump of rock, 10 miles offshore. Even from the main coast of Iceland, the presence of the birds can be seen with its white glow from centuries of guano being deposited on the 77-metre-high cliffs.

It is not possible to visit Eldey Island, but from the parking area at Valahnúkamöl you can see the island in the distance. With binoculars, it is possible to see the gannets circling and diving.

Stóri-Karl

Stóri Karl is probably the easiest place to find and watch gannets in Iceland. Beyond Þórshöfn Road 869 becomes a rough track along the Langanes peninsula. The cliffs along the coast are buzzing with birds but as Skorvík Cliffs and the sea stack known as Stóri Karl are approached this activity intensifies.

The gannets at Stóri Karl are easy to find and can be viewed from a purpose-built viewing platform. There is no way to get lower on the cliffs (and why would you want to anyway) so binoculars or a long lens are essential.

Rauðinúpur

In the far north of Iceland, there is another gannet colony at Rauðinúpur or Red Cape. Red Cape has two sea stacks close to each other that beneath the years of guano are a beautiful red colour. This is where you will find the most northerly gannet colony in Iceland. The sea stacks are named “Karlinn” and “Sölvanöf” and Sölvanöf was connected to the mainland by a land bridge until its collapse in 1962.

Rauðinúpur is off Road 870 north of Raufarhöfn on the Melrakkaslétta plain peninsula. It is a 45-minute walk out to the sea stacks from the nearest parking and Rauðanúpsviti lighthouse is nearby.

Westman Islands

The Westman Islands off the south coast host small colonies of northern gannets each breeding season. This small volcanic archipelago lies surrounded by rich North Atlantic fishing waters, drawing as many as 28,000 gannet pairs to nest on its sea cliffs and populate its skies. The island’s main gannetry is at Súlnasker halfway between Heimaey and Surtsey.

Skrúður Island

In the heart of the East Fjords, Skrúður is a small island close to Fáskrúðsfjörður. As well as a gannet colony, the island is home to puffins as well as kittiwakes and fulmars. As with the other islands it can be seen from the coast as you drive from Djúpivogur north towards Egilsstaðir.

Planning a road trip to Iceland? Read all my Iceland Travel Guides