Exploring Skomer Island – A wild escape from reality
Skomer Island is located in the far southwest of Wales in Pembrokeshire. As you drive down the M4 and then off into the wilds beyond the anticipation rises. The island can be seen as you come over the hill from Marloes village but it isn’t until the boat comes into view that the adventure really begins.
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Skomer Island is perfect for a day trip for those who want to see puffins and it is a treat for any wildlife photographer. A day on the island gives you time to watch and photograph the antics of these amazing little birds.
Due to the environmental importance of the island and its inhabitants, it is designated as a National Marine Nature Reserve. Visits are carefully controlled with only a certain number of visitors allowed to land each day and clear guidelines being in place to ensure a balance between conservation and tourism.
Want to know more about puffins in the UK?
Mini-guide to Puffins in the UK
This ebook includes information about the puffin colonies, where to find them and how to visit responsibly. With 20 pages of information, maps and beautiful photographs, it will help you see the puffins on your next summer adventure in the UK.
Exploring Skomer island
Heading west from Cardiff along the Welsh coast the landscape changes from industrial plants lit up 24/7 to miles of wild landscapes. The change between man and nature is instant and noticeable.
After Haverfordwest, a small town surrounded by countryside, the lanes become narrow and the drive heads down towards the coast at every turn.
Leaving the car at the cliff top West Hook Farm the walk down to the boat is surrounded by high-banked hedges full of colour from the early summer flowers that fill the gaps.
North Haven
The boat from Martin’s Haven to Skomer Island really is the beginning of the journey. As the mainland distances itself, the rough waters of Jack Sound come into view. A tidal race with swirling whirlpools and converging waves it is not somewhere to loiter even on a calm day.
Rounding the headland at Rye Rocks the landing stage at North Haven comes into view. If you didn’t know it was there it would be easily missed. The access to the island is from the landing stage up 87 steps of varying size and depth, a slow and warm climb.
As you land, the seabirds surround you with razorbills, guillemots and puffins lining the cliffs in a noisy welcome to the island.
Old Farm
For such a small island there are a lot of hills, even the top of the island undulates and the four-mile circuit really does give a good “workout”. The first stop after the climb from the landing is Old Farm. This is in the centre of the island and is where the accommodation is located. Next to the Old Farm, set atop a large rocky outcrop is the trig point, marking the highest point on Skomer.
Skomer has a maximum of 250 visitors a day, but to really get to enjoy the island a stay gives you freedom when the day trippers have gone home at 5pm to really explore. The hostel sleeps 16 and it is then you, the wardens, the volunteers and the researchers plus about 400000 seabirds for the night.
The farm has toilets picnic benches and a small amount of shelter if the weather becomes too much to be on the cliffs.
Unique Birds
Skomer is a haven for birds with species breeding in isolated peace. The benefit of staying on the island is that the more unusual species are seen when the day visitors have left as well as the chance to use the amazing light for photography. This includes seeing short-eared owls in flight around the Old Farm.
The island is also home to a large percentage of the world’s population of Manx shearwaters, a weird bird that comes in from the sea under the cover of darkness to return to their burrows, heading back out to sea before the first light.
The noise they make is amazing, a weird whooping noise that echoes around the island from their first arrival until their departure in the early hours.
They are clumsy birds, not suited to life on land with feet far too far back on their bodies making walking impossible and making them targets for the resident gulls.
The carcasses in the morning show how busy the gulls are overnight with the mutilated remains of the shearwaters littering the island, rotting in the sun.
Amphibians
Overnight the island also comes alive with frogs and toads emerging from their daytime hides to hunt for supper, a carpet of moving amphibian life makes nighttime adventures a hazardous undertaking.
Puffins
This small and comical bird arrives in late April to nest in burrows atop the steep cliffs that are characteristic of the island. Their colonies are sometimes known as a ‘circus’ of puffins, one of the more descriptive collective nouns for creatures.
With their bright orange bills and legs with a distinct orange circle around the eye, these little characters stay on the island until mid-August.
The colouring to the bill will be shed over the winter while the puffin is spending the winter at sea within the Arctic Circle and around Iceland.
They feed on the sand eels that are found in the surrounding Irish Sea, sometimes travelling as far as 60 miles offshore to find a good catch of this little fish.
They also feed on other small fish and are known to dive to 30 metres. Their catch is sought after by the resident herring gulls who bombard the small puffins on their return, dislodging their catch with the hope of securing a free meal with minimal effort.
The puffins line their burrows with plant material and twigs as well as feathers and any other materials that they can find and even after the eggs are laid they will continue to ‘garden’ and return to their burrows with padding, decoration and small gifts for their mates.
They will use the same burrow each year and have the same mate. Each year they will lay just one egg so care for the puffling is essential to ensure the future of the species.
The pufflings are black and fluffy without the characteristic bill shape, but over winter they will become more colourful and chunky. The pufflings will set off for the winter before their parents, who leave Skomer Island in late August. Some may not make it to adulthood and that is the one chance for a puffling lost for the year.
Life on the cliff top can become heated and these small birds are constantly bickering and jostling with each other. The birds live in colonies on the tops of cliffs, returning each year. There is always a lot of bill rubbing as well as full-blown squabbles and it seems to be common practice to make a deposit of guano down someone else’s burrow. Constant burrow maintenance occurs with sand being cleared as well as new deposits of guano.
Burrows
Walking around the island during the day it is easy to see the impact the birds are having on the landscape. The ground is fragile and burrows of shearwaters and puffins litter the island. At times it feels like the whole island is one giant burrow and that walking is hazardous.
It does not seem possible that there can be a number of burrows visible and the ground can remain solid. Keeping to the path is essential and even then a few burrows have been dug in the path with man-made protection to prevent damage to the inhabitants and walkers alike.
Bird Colonies
From the Garland Stone, the high cliffs of Bull Hole come into view, covered in guano from the resident colony of razorbills nesting on the high cliffs. The noise is electrifying even from the distant clifftop looking out towards the colony. This area is also home to a pair of choughs as well as a number of smaller birds.
Flowers
The cliff tops are covered in wildflowers ; bright pink campion and white sea campion giving a gentle blanket covering to the undulating cliffs. There are also deep purple milk thistles, daisies and the remains of a blanket of spring bluebells. Hidden amongst the larger plants are the smallest forget-me-nots I have ever seen. In the valley away from the cliffs, bracken provides a dense cover for rabbits and amphibians sheltering from the harsh daytime sunlight.
The Wick
Following along the west coast of Skomer, eventually, The Wick comes into view. The deep cut of The Wick was formed as weaker rock eroded over time leaving the harder rock that forms the cliffs today.
The Wick is home to a colony of puffins as well as having large numbers of seabirds nesting on the sheer cliffs. Again the noise of the colony offshore is a battle of the senses while the colours of the puffins go against the rules of dark-coloured sea birds. Hours can be wasted at The Wick, watching the antics of the puffins.
Moorey Mere
Heading east from the Wick across a small valley the sheer wall of High Cliff is reached, again home to a colony of sea birds and the hunting ground of a peregrine falcon. The peregrine falcon hunts along the cliffs.
From High Cliff, it is an uphill walk through Moorey Mere past the hide to Gorse Hill and the Old Farm or round the cliffs back to North Haven. The hide at Moorey Mere looks out over the small lakes which are home to gulls, kittiwakes and oystercatchers.
Night Sky
Staying on Skomer Island has the added benefit of proper dark skies which allow a chance to play with some astrophotography and star-gazing without light pollution spoiling the view. The Garland Stone is the perfect position to watch the sunrise beyond the small city of St David’s.
Planning your visit to Skomer Island
The adventure starts on arrival at Lockley Lodge in the small cove of Martins Haven. There is day parking here. If you are staying on the island then you must park at West Hook Farm just a short but tough walk up the road.
Tickets for Skomer must be booked in advance from Pembrokeshire Island Boat Trips. It is an easy process to book your crossing and saves missing out on this trip.
The boat only sails on Tuesday to Sunday and Bank Holiday Mondays and can be cancelled if the crossing is too rough. It is only a mile, but it involves crossing the ‘interesting’ Jack Sound. You certainly know when you have got to it as the water becomes choppy even on a calm day.
Keep your camera to hand as the wildlife appears as the boat leaves the jetty. Seals are around and about and dolphins buzz the boat as it crosses. Birds appear in increasing numbers as the island gets closer.
On arrival at the island, you will be met by the warden who will talk through the key areas on the island and any new arrivals. Even if you visit a lot this is essential. The talk takes place at the top of the steps. There are a lot of steps, but once you are on top of the island it is just an undulating walk for the remainder of the day.
Depending on your crossing times it may be worth heading to The Wick immediately or saving it to the end of the day if you are on one of the later crossings. It can get busy here as this is where the puffins are found in their greatest numbers. However puffins are everywhere, so getting away from the crowds is recommended.
Remember to bring all the food and drink you need. There is nowhere on the island to purchase anything. There are however toilets but no real shelter if it rains heavily so waterproofs are essential. Along with waterproofs, a good pair of boots is recommended. The island is rugged and there is LOTS of walking.
Skomer Island is perfect for a circular walk with far more to the island than just The Wick
Staying on Skomer Island
One of the best ways to see Skomer Island is to stay on the island. Not only do you miss the lottery of getting a ticket for the day, but you get to cross on an earlier boat than the day visitors.
Accommodation is basic but comfortable and warm. In the style of a bunk house with a shared kitchen and bathroom, it is a perfect base for a few nights. You do need to bring all your food and take all your rubbish back to the mainland.
Once on the island, you are free to explore. The biggest bonus is being able to photograph the puffins during the golden light of sunrise and sunset. If you stay on a Sunday night you get to explore the island on your own on a Monday. There are no day trippers and no boats to get off the island- perfect!
You also get to see the amazing night sky and sometimes even the aurora borealis as we did and hear the Manx shearwaters with their haunting call through the night.
Leaving Skomer Island
When it is time to leave ensure you arrive at the allocated time. There is nothing worse than having to sit on a boat for the crossing with everyone knowing you are the reason for the delay.
Once you have visited Skomer Island it will be an experience you will want to repeat. A day trip is enough to give you a taste but to enjoy it to its maximum a stay is the best option.
Useful links
Puffin Fact File https://www.welshwildlife.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/Puffin.pdf
Welsh Wildlife Trust https://www.welshwildlife.org/skomer-skokholm/skomer/
Staying on Skomer https://www.welshwildlife.org/overnight-accommodation-on-skomer/
West Hook Farm Parking for staying on Skomer Island http://www.westhookfarm-camping.co.uk/skomer.html
Want to know more about puffins in the UK?
Mini-guide to Puffins in the UK
This ebook includes information about the puffin colonies, where to find them and how to visit responsibly. With 20 pages of information, maps and beautiful photographs, it will help you see the puffins on your next summer adventure in the UK.