A Day at RHS Garden Rosemoor: A Quiet Retreat in a Wooded Devon Valley
Low light filters through the valley as morning settles over RHS Garden Rosemoor. Tucked just outside Great Torrington in North Devon, the garden sits within a natural bowl of ancient woodland and pastureland, its edges soft and green even in the sharper months. At first glance, it seems entirely rural, but step through the gates and you enter a carefully tended world that moves in close rhythm with the seasons.
Rosemoor spans over 65 acres, divided between formal gardens, productive plots, and wild wooded trails. Originally a private garden, it was gifted to the Royal Horticultural Society in 1988 by Lady Anne Berry, and since then has evolved into one of the Society’s most richly diverse sites. Its layout encourages quiet exploration: long axial paths and structured borders lead gently into more secluded zones where mossy walls, shaded pools, and winding tracks shift the pace. It is as much a place for horticultural interest as it is for personal retreat.
The garden opens slowly in the morning, first light catching on glasshouse panes, bees moving across the flower garden, and steam rising from warm coffee at the Garden Kitchen café. On quieter days, you can walk entire sections alone, noticing the change in bird song between the orchard and the arboretum, or watching the shapes of vegetables emerge in the raised beds. Across seasons and return visits, the atmosphere deepens. Over time, you begin to recognise familiar details, a particular fern uncurling in the Stumpery, or the shift in scent near the Mediterranean Garden as the air warms.
This is a place shaped by quiet work and close attention. For those drawn to slow travel, thoughtful design, and time in natural surroundings, Rosemoor offers something enduring.
This article contains links to products and services that I think you will find useful. I may earn a commission on any purchases you make at no cost to you. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Read more HERE
What Makes This Place Special
RHS Garden Rosemoor combines the structure of formal planting with the feeling of natural immersion. Sheltered by Devon’s wooded hillsides, the garden retains a sense of enclosure that softens the transition between cultivated space and wild landscape. It offers more than just visual pleasure, it invites observation through scent, texture, and subtle seasonal shifts.
Unlike some larger showpiece gardens, Rosemoor holds a working, evolving quality. Trial beds, productive kitchen gardens, and woodland conservation areas are woven throughout, allowing visitors to see both polished displays and ongoing experimentation. The variety of planting styles, from alpine beds to lush cottage borders, shows a broad horticultural range without overwhelming the senses.
Things to See and Do
There are so many hidden corners at Rosemoor that it is impossible to share everything to see and do so these are some of my favourite finds in the gardens.
The Long Borders
These formal borders stretch out in symmetry near the centre of the garden, offering colour and structure throughout the year. Designed for extended seasonal interest, they showcase combinations of perennials, grasses, and shrubs in layered arrangements. From spring bulbs to late-summer seedheads, each phase has a distinct rhythm. Paths alongside invite slow walking, and the planting reveals different forms when viewed in reverse. Each side of the border hedges are more intimate gardens each with their own hidden personality.
Fruit and Vegetable Garden
A quieter section of the garden, this productive area is framed by espaliered fruit trees and seasonal vegetables. Raised beds are arranged for easy viewing, with careful attention to crop rotation and companion planting. It’s not only instructive for gardeners but also a peaceful space, where bees move between flowering herbs and the soft scent of soil hangs in the air. In late summer, this part of the garden is rich with colour and texture.
The Stumpery
Tucked into a shaded area beneath mature trees, the Stumpery has an otherworldly feel. Ferns, mosses, and shade-loving perennials grow among sculptural root systems and natural timber structures. Designed to evoke Victorian planting styles, this area offers contrast to the openness of the formal gardens. It’s especially atmospheric in spring and autumn, when damp air enhances the scent of earth and the detail in foliage. Look over the small bridge into the stream that runs through the stumpery and you will see newts in the shallow pools.
Woodland Walks and the Silent SPace
Leading from the edges of the formal gardens into the surrounding woods, these paths follow the contours of the land and the movement of water. Streamside borders are planted with primulas, astilbes, and hostas, offering changing interest through the growing season. The tree canopy above filters light and adds to the sense of being tucked away. These are some of the best areas for solitude and a slow wander.
Herb, Potager and Cottage Gardens
Positioned close to the formal gardens and the main buildings, this part of Rosemoor reflects the informality of traditional English gardens. Fruit trees, ornamental planting, and pollinator-friendly herbs are arranged with loose edges and unexpected combinations. There’s often movement here, both from wildlife and shifting light. The garden changes quickly from spring into summer and draws in butterflies and bees in large numbers.
The Winter Garden
Designed specifically to offer colour and interest in the colder months, the Winter Garden focuses on texture, bark, and evergreen structure. Red and orange dogwoods (Cornus), white-stemmed birches, and ornamental grasses combine with hellebores and early bulbs to form a coherent, quiet beauty. It’s a strong reminder that gardens don’t hibernate completely, even in the depths of winter.
Getting There and Route Details
RHS Garden Rosemoor is situated just south of Great Torrington in North Devon. By car, it’s roughly 1 hour and 15 minutes from Exeter via the A377 and A386, and around 30 minutes from Barnstaple. The route passes through rural countryside and is well signposted in the final stretch.
Public transport is limited. The nearest rail station is at Barnstaple, from which a bus connects to Great Torrington. From there, a short taxi journey or a 1.5-mile walk is required to reach the garden. For a longer visit or early arrival, travelling by car offers the most flexibility.
How to Visit
RHS Garden Rosemoor is operated by the Royal Horticultural Society and is open year-round. Admission is included with RHS membership; otherwise, standard adult tickets can be purchased online or at the gate. Booking ahead is recommended during school holidays or special events.
The garden is typically open from 10am to 5pm, with slight seasonal adjustments. Most paths are well-surfaced and accessible, though some of the wooded areas have natural gradients. Dogs are not permitted, aside from assistance dogs. Facilities include toilets, an indoor café, gift shop, and a well-stocked plant centre featuring regionally suitable plants.
Best Time of Year to Visit RHS Rosemoor
Each season at Rosemoor offers something distinct. Spring brings carpets of bulbs, blossom in the orchard, and the first stirrings in the woodland. Summer follows with abundant borders, the vegetable garden in full growth, and high pollinator activity.
Autumn introduces gentler tones, particularly among the maples and in the woodland areas. The light becomes warmer and the garden quieter. Winter brings structure to the fore, best seen early in the morning when frost catches on the grasses and the bark of birch and dogwood glows under a low sun. Weekday mornings in spring and winter tend to be the most peaceful, especially for photography or drawing.
Where to Eat or Pause
The on-site Garden Kitchen offers seasonal, locally sourced meals with views over part of the garden. Dishes change regularly and include warm lunches, soups, and homemade cakes. Seating is available both indoors and outside, and it’s possible to find a quiet table even on busier days.
At Rosemoor House in the far corner of the gardens there is a small cafe with cakes and coffee making it a perfect pause before a wander back towards the more formal gardens and the garden centre.
Several areas within the garden are suitable for picnics. A particularly peaceful spot lies beyond the Stream Field, where the sound of water and the surrounding woodland create a gentle atmosphere. Benches are scattered throughout the site, many in sheltered locations with good views.
Where to Stay
RHS Rosemoor has three holiday cottages that are tucked away in Rosemoor House, a beautiful period house draped in wisteria. This is in a quiet corner of the gardens surrounded by woodland close to the Exoic Garden and Cherry Garden.
For those wishing to stay nearby, the countryside around Great Torrington offers a number of quiet guesthouses and holiday cottages. The Byre, set within woodland near the village of Monkleigh, provides a private and quirky retreat with direct access to nature. Hall in Bishops Tawton offers a stay in a stunning historic house and sits within easy reach of both Rosemoor and the North Devon coast.
RHS Rosemoor Summary
RHS Garden Rosemoor is a place where cultivated design and natural rhythm meet. It invites quiet exploration and rewards repeat visits, especially for those attuned to subtle seasonal change. From structured borders to shaded woodland, it offers an experience of depth, not spectacle.
Other English Gardens
- Stourhead Gardens, Wiltshire
- Lytes Cary, Somerset
- Compton Acres, Dorset
- Exbury Gardens, Hampshire
To receive more guides like this, focused on peaceful places, seasonal travel, and thoughtful itineraries, consider signing up for the newsletter. Each edition is shaped by time on the ground and created to help you travel slowly, observe more, and return home with something lasting.
