Exploring the Reykjanes Peninsula – Blue Diamond Route, Iceland
The Reykjanes Peninsula is a forgotten corner of Iceland located in the far southwest corner of the country. Dominated by Keflavík International Airport and the Blue Lagoon its natural beauty and geothermal sites are often overlooked. This small part of Iceland is perfect for a short layover giving a complete taste of Iceland or as part of a longer road trip around Iceland.
the REykjanes peninsula around Grindavík is currently CLOSED DUE TO VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS.
Please stay away from Grindavík and follow the local guidance
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Most people flying into Reykjavík have only one thing on their mind – to hit the road and go, see and experience all the picture-perfect locations they have probably spent time dreaming about. And as they speed away from the airport the area they are driving through, and away from, is Reykjanes Peninsula, a forgotten corner of Iceland, generally only visited to go to the Blue Lagoon.
This small corner of Iceland is, however, one of the most interesting places to visit. From hot mud pools to beaches, lighthouses to lava fields, this place seems to have one of everything that you come to Iceland to see. And unlike the well-worn tourist trails of the Golden Circle, the ring road and the Snæfellsnes peninsula the area is quiet and still relatively tourist-free. It has some really unique features that make it fantastic for a mini road trip.
Where is the Reykjanes Peninsula
The Reykjanes Peninsula is located in the far southwest of Iceland. It is an area that many tourists visit for the main international airport and the famous Blue Lagoon natural spa.
It is approximately 50 kilometres from Reykjavik, although the northeast corner of the region is much closer.
A road circles the entire coastline making a road trip to the Reykjanes Peninsula a great way to spend a short layover in Iceland, away from the busy Golden Circle while getting a real taste of the country.
Reykjanes UNESCO Global Geopark
The Mid-Atlantic Ridge is, as the name suggests, a mid-ocean ridge running from 87°N -about 333km south of the North Pole- to subantarctic Bourvet island at 54°S, a divergent or constructive plate boundary located along the floor of the Atlantic Ocean, and part of the longest mountain range in the world.
The ridge separates the North American Plate from the Eurasian Plate in the North Atlantic, and the South American Plate from the African Plate in the South Atlantic, and the plates are still moving apart at, on average, 2.0-2.5 cm per year. The area is still active with earthquakes rumbling on a continual basis and a number of the volcanoes slowly warming up for an eruption.
This Reykjanes geopark is unique in that it is one of the few accessible places in the world where the Mid-Atlantic Ridge is visible above sea level. The sites within the geopark have a significant role and are all connected to the story of the Mid-Atlantic ridge and the effects of the tectonic plates.
Bridge Between the Continents
If you are short on time then do at least pay a visit to Leif the Lucky’s Bridge, the bridge between the continents, where you can walk from Europe to North America. Below the bridge is the ridge itself where you can stand in the widening gap between the two continents. This shallow gorge is filled with coarse sand with views out across the nature reserve to the bird cliffs at Hafnaberg, a gap that is increasing year on year.
Under the flight path – Hvalsneskirkja, Garður and Býjarsker
If you came to Iceland to take away breathtaking photographs then a visit to Hvalsneskirkja is a must. This is a beautifully preserved church built in 1887 from carved stone collected from the region, with an interior made from driftwood collected from the local shoreline. This small church is one of the more ornate ‘black’ churches in Iceland and is found tucked away in a corner directly under the final approach to Keflavík airport.
A short drive from Hvalsneskirkja brings you to the tip of the peninsula at Garður with its magnificent sea views and the Garður Lighthouses. The old Garður Lighthouse was built in 1897 and was still in use until recently to study the thousands of migrating birds which arrive there from Greenland and North America every year to breed on the surrounding shore. The newer lighthouse was built in 1944 and stands proud with its red and white stripes further out to sea and is well worth a visit for the views and bird watching.
Býjarsker is a neat little fishing port between Garður and Hvalsneskirkja. On the harbourside is a warehouse building with beautiful wall art and the distinct look of a lighthouse. Unique in style this light tower is painted yellow with a clear red marker.
The lighthouse at Stafnes
Driving away from Gardskagar takes you to the rural area of Stafnes with a small number of homes and the orange cliff-top lighthouse. The Stafnesviti light was built in 1925 and has imposing views over the sea. On the path from the car park to the light, you will see the monument to the trawler President Jon which ran aground there on the 28th of February 1928, 15 of the crew drowned, but 10 were rescued. This and other similar accidents led to the establishment of The Life Saving Association of Iceland.
Reykjanes Lighthouse, the Cliffs at Valahnúkamöl and the Auk
Continuing the theme of lighthouses the Reykjanes lighthouse is worth a visit. Whilst the current light is particularly notable if you continue down the road you will come to the cliffs at Valahnúkamöl. Here you will find the site of the first lighthouse built in Iceland, going into service in December of 1878. The light was destroyed by weather and earthquakes with the current lighthouse being built inland and of a robust construction.
The cliffs themselves lead to a ridge out to sea which is a testament to the power of the sea with well-worn rounded rocks, some 1 meter in diameter. Just offshore is a range of pinnacles and boulders and the erosion of the sea has revealed an amazing range of lava types. Everything is here from pillow lava to tuff layers. The pillow lava forms with underwater eruptions whilst the tuff layers form as ash is laid down over time during a volcanic explosion.
You’ll also find the statue of the last great auk at the cliffs, a bronze memorial to the flightless bird that was extensively hunted in the late 18th and early 19th century until the last breeding pair was killed in 1844. Whilst resembling a penguin it was feathered and prized for its feathers and meat.
On the cliff top, you will also find a pair of red keyboards, a little bit of Icelandic fun. These were the keyboards used during the filming of the Eurovision Song Contest: Land of Ice and Fire in 2020,
Gunnuhver Geothermal Area
Driving away from the cliffs brings you to the Gunnuhver geothermal area, you’ll probably see the steam rising before you get there. An impressive sight at 20 meters wide the geothermal field is unique. Unlike the other hot springs in Iceland, this one is entirely dependent on seawater due to its proximity to the ocean. There are a series of wooden platforms that let you get a great view, and the surrounding area is a myriad of colours from the geothermal activity. This area makes a great short circular hike from the Reykjanes lighthouse.
The name Gunnuhver translates to “Gunn’s hot spring”, Gunn being short for Gudrum. Legend has it that Gudrum lived on the peninsula in the 18th century and was unliked and thought to be a witch. Through a turn of events she came to haunt the peninsula, wreaking havoc, and mayhem. The church would not act on the ghost claims so the locals resorted to getting a priest drunk who then laid a trap for the ghost. This resulted in her being lured into the hot spring where she is trapped for eternity.
Brimketill (Surf Cauldron)
This is quite the hidden gem since there is nothing obvious from the parking area or the nearby road on the westernmost part of Staðarberg. A short walk takes you to the cliff edge and a rock pool carved out from the soft lava by the relentless action of the sea is revealed below the viewing platform. We visited at low tide but you can imagine the power of the sea in a winter storm whilst standing on those cliffs and you begin to realise the immense power of nature.
As with many places in Iceland, this location is linked to legends. Here the story is about Oddný the night troll who lived to the west of Brimketill. One night she went to a nearby reef to collect a whale carcass and on her return, she decided to bathe in Brimketill. Wasting time she left it too late and the sun came up turning her into a lava pinnacle. For this reason, Brimketill is sometimes known as Oddný’s Pool.
Hopsnesviti and Shipwrecks – the road across lava fields
This area is not currently accessible
The theme of lighthouses on the Reykjanes peninsula is strong as another lighthouse at Hópsnesviti appears. While the light is quite pretty as lighthouses go it’s the journey to it that makes this worth a visit. Set at the end of a headland the drive to it can be done in either direction from the town of Grindavík.
It is recommended the drive be done in a 4×4 since you will be driving through a dramatic and undulating lava field. If that wasn’t dramatic enough you drive past shipwrecks which seem to have been tossed ashore by the hand of a giant.
Kleifarvatn Lake, Seltún and Grænavatn
Kleifarvatn Lake is both unique and beautiful, a must-visit for any photographer given its location in a rocky landscape. Whilst the water is cold throughout most of the lake the southernmost end is fed from the hot springs which make up the Seltún geothermal area.
Within the area is Seltún which has been set up for tourists with parking and toilets. If you’ve never seen boiling mud before then this is the place to go! Wooden platforms give great vantage points, and there is a winding path that leads to the top of the massive steaming vent that is well worth the steep walk for the views. As well as the main area with paths, on the opposite side of the road is a small area with steaming mud pots plopping away. This is also a great place to see some local Icelandic horses who are incredibly friendly!
A short drive from Seltún you come to Lake Grænavatn, an explosion crater formed by volcanic explosions. Whilst small it is 50 meters deep and it seems to glow with a rich, deep green colour because of thermal algae and crystals that absorb sunlight.
Fagradalsfjall Volcano and lava fields
On the 19th March 2021 after thousands of earthquakes over the preceding days, a fissure vent opened in Geldingadalir just to the south of Fagradalsfjall mountain. This flat-topped volcano and the surrounding volcanic systems had been dormant for 815 years but had burst into life in spectacular style. Magma at over 1,300°C (2372°F) was ejected into the air and could be seen from Reykjavík over 40km away.
On August 3rd 2022 after a similar swarm of earthquakes to the 2021 eruption a long fissure opened in an adjacent valley called the Meradalir Valley. This eruption lasted until the 21st August 2022 and filled the valley with fresh lava. The fears that this eruption would flow out of the valley towards the road below were eased when the activity ceased soon after the start of the eruption.
It is now possible to hike to see the newly formed lava fields. On cooler days they are still steaming. It is an amazing sight to see the valley filled with a huge volume of lava. The hike to the 2022 eruption site is about 14km a lot of it uphill, but it is possible to take a short hike to the first viewing point just a short distance from the parking area. Tours are possible if you are not happy hiking alone.
LITLI HRÚTUR – THE NEWEST VOLCANO IN ICELAND
A new eruption in the area of Fagradalsfjall area started on 10th July 2023. This is an ongoing and rapidly changing area but updates can be found at RUV.is and Visit Reykjanes.
If you want to visit the volcano the hike is 10km in each direction from parking area D, close to the parking areas for Fagradalsfjall. If you would rather go with a guide (which is the best option) then this Troll Expeditions hike is recommended.
For more luxury seeing the site by helicopter is a once-in-a-lifetime experience and can be booked here
Viking invasion
Whilst I am sure most people visiting the peninsula would be chomping at the bit to get to the Icelandic Museum of Rock ‘n’ Roll so prominently signposted as you leave the airport, just a short drive from there is Viking World which explores the history of the Vikings and Iceland. Prominently in the middle of the museum is a replica of a 9th Century ship which you can climb aboard and also explore under since it is suspended in the air. The museum provides a good array of exhibits and information and is certainly worth the time to explore.
The Memorial Park and the Giantess and her laundry at Reykjanesbær
The memorial park at Reykjaenesbær is well worth a visit for a stroll and to look at the statue of the man and woman, made up of 2 big stones, facing the North Atlantic Ocean, representing the Icelandic fishing family waiting for the returns of their family members. Other statues and artwork adorn the area and near the marina, you will find the Cave of Giganta (signposted Skessuhellir). I won’t spoil the story but the Giantess said to live in the cave is made famous in 16 Icelandic children’s books. Just follow the oversized painted footprints!
Vatnsnes Lighthouse and Holmsberg Lighthouse in Reyjanesbær
After all of this, if you haven’t had enough of lighthouses then in the centre of Reyjanesbær is Vatnsnes Lighthouse and the taller Holmsberg lighthouse outside of the town on a headland. They can be seen from each other, overlooking the small town close to the airport.
Blue Lagoon
THE BLUE LAGOON IS CURRENTLY CLOSED DUE TO VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS
Finally, the place that everyone visits on their way to and from the airport – the Blue Lagoon. Maybe we are the only people who didn’t go and test the warm waters of this geothermal seawater spa. There are other, beautiful hot tubs scattered across Iceland that you can have to yourself. However, the Blue Lagoon does have stunning trails and hikes that take you across the surrounding volcanic landscape crossing the blue tributaries that lead to the main lagoon, beautiful and unique in its own way. If you are only in Iceland for a short time then adding the Blue Lagoon to your road trip around the Reykjanes Peninsula is certainly worth considering.
Map of places to visit in the Reykjanes Peninsula
Whilst there are lots of locations within this region, the map below shows the highlights from this post plus a few extras. Click on the map or click HERE to see the full map.
Driving around the Reykjanes Peninsula
Driving in this part of Iceland is fairly easy compared to other regions. Most of the visits can be completed in a 2WD hire car although some of the more remote places will be better attempted in a 4WD vehicle.
Unlike other areas the distances in this region are short and a complete circle can be completed in a few hours. This makes it perfect for pre-or post- flight adventures when you don’t want to venture too far from the airport
If you don’t want to drive then there are tours which will help you explore the area with a guide. Have a look at the general tour of the area here.
If you want to hike to the volcano crater then a guided hike with a geologist would be a fantastic way to spend a day.
Staying on the Reykjanes Peninsula
If you have an early flight then staying in Reykjanesbær is a great idea. While a last night in Reykjavik might seem appealing it does mean a 45-minute drive or a 1-hour bus journey to get to the airport, Reykjanesbær is less than 10 minutes drive. There is a large selection of accommodation there to suit all budgets and lots of food and drink options.
Planning your Reykjanes road trip
The Reykjanes Peninsula provides an unforgettable and culturally enriching road trip, where the convergence of nature’s marvels and historical heritage awaits. Commencing from Reykjavik, this circular route spans approximately 190 kilometres.
Begin by traversing the rugged Atlantic Ocean shores, offering breathtaking views of the dramatic coastline. A visit to the Blue Lagoon beckons is the perfect start, where the power of geothermal springs manifests in a rejuvenating spa experience, courtesy of its mineral-rich waters.
Explore the ethereal Krýsuvík geothermal area, a landscape characterised by otherworldly mud pots and steaming vents. Nearby, the enchanting Lake Kleifarvatn glistens amidst a striking volcanic backdrop, captivating the senses.
The Reykjanes Peninsula presents a veritable haven for avid birdwatchers, offering diverse bird species nesting along the cliffs and coastal areas in the summer months.
Visit the iconic Bridge Between Continents where it is possible to straddle the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, symbolically uniting the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates.
Conclude your expedition at Reykjanesviti, an iconic lighthouse majestically perched upon rugged cliffs, offering unparalleled panoramic vistas of the peninsula’s breathtaking landscapes.
A road trip around the Reykjanes Peninsula encapsulates the quintessence of Iceland’s natural wonders, geothermal marvels, and historical treasures without the need to complete the whole ring road.
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