Caldey Island and Caldey Island Lighthouse, Pembrokeshire
Off the coast of Pembrokeshire just a short boat journey from the bustling seaside town of Tenby is the monastic island of Caldey. This small island is home to a community of Cistercian monks who are continuing the centuries-old tradition on this exposed island.
Caldey Island Lighthouse is located on the highest point of the island to help ships navigate the St Gowan Shoals and Helwick Sands. From here you can scan the seas for passing dolphins and watch the seabirds that make the island their home.
The island is the perfect place to escape the summer tourist madness in Tenby and find peace and wildlife in a small secluded setting.
History of the Island
Caldey Island has been inhabited since the bronze age, going through turmoil and raids. The island has had religious significance since 1131 when it was donated to the Benedictine monks from the Abbey of Tiron in France.
the best of Pembrokeshire
slow travel guide to pembrokeshire
See more places to explore in Pembrokeshire and stunning wildlife encounters
At this time in history south Wales was being colonised by the invading Normans. The monks lived peacefully on the island until 1536 when Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries of England and Wales.
The Old Priory survived their departure and the elements of time and is still standing on the island today.
Religion on caldey island
The island was in private ownership but it wasn’t until 1906 that it returned to its roots and was purchased by a community of Anglican Benedictines who built the present Abbey, rebuilt the original St David’s Church and repaired the worker’s cottages.
In 1929 Cistercian monasticism returned to the island and this community of monks now maintains the island and its traditional way of life.
Monks still live and work on the island although they are rarely seen during the day when visitors are on the island.
Walking from the landing stage through the sandy woodland it is easy to see why the monks chose this secluded spot to build their community. Being self-sufficient they farm the island as well as make chocolate and perfumes for the day trippers who make the hop-over in the summer months.
The island has beautiful sand dunes that roll down to a sandy beach with views across to Tenby and the Pembrokeshire coastline. These are sheltered and make the beach the perfect way to spend a summer afternoon.
Caldey Island Lighthouse
A lighthouse was needed to guide ships through the difficult St Gowan Shoals and Helwick Sands that surround Caldey Island.
St Gowan Shoal is to the south west of Caldey Island and is a shallow reef at 10-30 metres in depth. This is not a problem if the whole area was this depth but the surrounding area is up to 60metres deep which makes this shoal a real hazard.
Helwick Sands is the east of Caldey Island and is an extension of the Gower Peninsula. Again this shallow spit of land, marked with a lightship requires clear navigation.
An application was made to Trinity House in March 1827 by the traders of Carmarthen Bay to build a lighthouse. The waters around the island were used by limestone and coal traders moving materials to north Wales from the south.
The lighthouse was also needed to show the entrance to the Bristol Channel for ships from America and identify it as not being the English Channel.
The tower was built by Joseph Nelson and cost £4,460. It was first lit in 1829. In 1927 it was automated using acetylene gas and was the last of the Trinity House lighthouses to be converted from gas to electricity and full automation in November 1997.
The lighthouse is squat, standing just 16metres high, but is located 65 metres above the mean high water mark on the rocks below. The tower is made of limestone bricks. The wall is a massive 0.91 metres thick at the bottom reducing to 71cm at the top.
The light has a distinctive flash with a group of three white and red flashes every 20 seconds with the white light being seen for 13 nautical miles and the red light for 9 nautical miles. It works in conjunction with Lundy North Lighthouse to guide ships up the Bristol Channel avoiding St Gowan Shoals and Helwick Sands near the Gower.
Joined to the lighthouse tower by a small corridor are the keeper’s cottages. These are two-storey with ornate chimney pots and are surrounded to the north by private walled gardens.
Wildflowers on Caldey Island
The island is home to a variety of wildflowers that bloom throughout the year. Once at the lighthouse, there are walks along the cliffs in either direction through the meadows that buzz with insects and butterflies.
In the springtime, you can expect to see an array of wildflowers such as bluebells, primroses, and daffodils. As summer approaches, the island’s gardens are filled with colourful blooms including roses, geraniums, and hydrangeas. Peacock butterflies basking in the sun are a common sight along with speckled wood butterflies and small blue butterflies.
Caldey Island is also home to several rare flowers, including the Caldey Island thrift (Armeria maritima ssp. caldeyensis) and the Caldey Island kidney vetch (Anthyllis vulneraria ssp. maritima). These flowers are only found on Caldey Island and are protected under UK law.
Later in the season, the gorse comes into flower covering the clifftops in bright yellow. Hidden within the gorse it is possible to see gorse shieldbugs (Piezodorus lituratus). These compact insects will be green in the spring during the mating season, but the emerging young in the late summer have darker purple and green markings. As they head into hibernation they will all become much darker.
Bird life on Caldey Island
Caldey Island has a number of bird species that are found on the island and the small offshore craggy rocks and islands. You will often see and hear skylarks as you wander the cliffs and looking offshore you will see the small colonies of seabirds on St Margarets Island nature reserve.
One of the most notable bird species on the island is the Chough, a distinctive black bird with a red beak and legs. Caldey Island is home to a significant population of these birds, which can often be seen soaring and swooping along the cliff edges. They can often be seen nesting on the cliffs at Sandtop Bay
The island’s rugged coastline and grassy fields provide a diverse range of habitats for different types of birds, such as peregrine falcons, oystercatchers, guillemots, and razorbills. Caldey Island is also home to a range of seabirds, including fulmars, kittiwakes, and shags. Walking along the cliffs away from the main pathway through the village will allow you to explore the bays and cliffs that they nest on during the summer months.
Wildlife on Caldey Island
Caldey Island is a haven for a diverse range of wildlife, including its impressive bird and flower populations, as well as its land and marine animals. The rugged coastline and secluded coves provide the perfect habitat for a variety of marine animals, while the island’s grassy fields, wooded areas, and rocky outcrops support a range of land mammals, reptiles and insects. Red squirrels and hedgehogs are two of the most notable land animals found on Caldey Island.
Red Squirrels
The island is home to a thriving population of these small mammals. While the habitat isn’t perfect for the red squirrels to be self-sustaining, their numbers have expanded year on year. More native trees are being introduced to the island and feeding stations are maintained especially during the summer months when foraging is more limited for the squirrels.
This is one of the few places where red squirrels can thrive without intimidation or influence from grey squirrels. In 2016 three red squirrels were introduced with a further 12 arriving in 2017 and there are now believed to be over 60 individuals making the island their home.
Hedgehogs
Hedgehogs are increasing in numbers as there is no destruction of the habitat on the island and no cars to squash them during their nightly rambles. There are also no predators such as badgers that will eat hedgehogs and reduce their numbers significantly in areas around their setts.
Rats
In addition to the resident wildlife, Caldey Island has undergone successful rat eradication efforts in recent years. This has created a safer environment for the island’s native species, particularly its ground-nesting seabirds, who were previously vulnerable to predation by rats.
SOay Sheep
As you wander the meadows and cliffs you may encounter the dark brown, horned Soay Sheep. This rare breed can be found on the west side of the island and has been introduced in a programme to ensure the breed survives.
Shetland Ponies
Close to the lighthouse, there is a field that is home to a small herd of Shetland ponies. These feisty and character-filled ponies are quite friendly and will come for a scratch. While they are not wild, they are lovely to see grazing as you walk along the road beyond the Priory fish pond.
Accommodation And Food
It is possible to stay on Caldey Island. This is usually arranged through the monastery and takes the form of a retreat. The cottages on the island are all private and other than St Philomena’s Retreat House there is nowhere to stay on the island. Nearby Tenby has lots of accommodation options, making Caldey Island ideal for a day trip.
The cafe on Caldey Island is busy but serves good food and much-needed ice creams. There are also picnic tables and benches dotted across the island. Bringing your own picnic and using the shop and cafe for treats is the best option for a day exploring the island. There are no covered areas so plan for the weather!
Getting to Caldey Island
Caldey Island is reached by boat from the seaside town of Tenby. Tickets can be purchased from the kiosk on the harbour or directly from the tractor on the beach pontoon at low tide.
It is not possible to walk or swim out to Caldey Island even at low tide and you must use the boats from Tenby.
The boats run every day in the summer months shuttling backwards and forwards between 9.30am and 5pm.
The boats are open so make sure you have warm layers for the 20-minute crossing.
The boats leave you at the landing stage next to the beach at Priory Bay. This bay is sheltered on the north side of the island with large sand dunes. It is then a short walk up the main path to the small shop and onwards to the lighthouse. The walk to the lighthouse is on a normal road, but there are no vehicles on the island other than those used by the residents.
From the lighthouse paths follow the cliffs along the coast in both directions taking you past the small sandy bays and wooded areas.
- Penniless Cove Hill, Tenby SA70 7BZ
- Find Caldey Island Ticket Office on Google Maps
- Visit the Caldey Island Website