Night Diving in Raja Ampat
Raja Ampat is renowned for its stunning marine biodiversity, and while its reefs are extraordinary by day, they take on a new, almost surreal character at night. As darkness falls across the islands, the coral gardens and sandy slopes become the stage for a fascinating display of nocturnal behaviour.
Creatures that remain hidden during daylight hours begin to emerge. Predators hunt, delicate invertebrates feed, and the reef pulses with bioluminescent life. Night diving here is a special experience that reveals just how much more there is to see when the lights go out.
The following four sites offer some of the most rewarding night dives in the region and are some of my favourite night dives in my log books.
Yillet Besar
Depth: 5–20 metres
Dive type: Slope and sandy bottom
Look out for: Blue-ringed octopus, cuttlefish, moray eels, nudibranchs
Yillet Besar in the Misool area provides the perfect setting for a night dive, with a gently sloping seabed scattered with coral bommies and patches of seagrass. Under torchlight, the reef transforms into a shadowy labyrinth where unusual creatures roam.
Among the rubble and sponges, blue-ringed octopuses can sometimes be found, their electric rings pulsing as a warning if disturbed. Moray eels leave their hiding places in search of food, and cuttlefish hover close to the bottom, their colours shifting with each movement. Nudibranchs in a kaleidoscope of colours glide over corals and sponges, some barely larger than a fingernail.
Wayil
Depth: 5–18 metres
Dive type: Coral garden and wall
Look out for: Nudibranchs, cuttlefish, bobtail squid, ghost pipefish, bioluminescence
The walls and coral gardens of Wayil offer a tranquil and richly detailed night dive experience. With little current and excellent shelter, this is a site where divers can slow down and take in the finer details of the reef.
The area is known for a wide variety of nudibranchs, some no larger than grains of rice, nestled among soft corals and algae-covered rocks. Flatworms are also seen in large numbers on this reef and are often free-swimming.
On moonless nights, it’s worth switching off torches briefly to watch the water around you light up with bioluminescent plankton.
Arborek Jetty
Depth: 3–15 metres
Dive type: Jetty and reef slope
Look out for: Blue-ringed octopus, cuttlefish, nudibranchs, crabs, cardinalfish
Arborek Jetty is well-known as a vibrant dive site by day, but it’s after dark that its true character is revealed. The jetty’s wooden pilings are thick with soft corals and sea fans, which in turn attract an incredible array of reef life.
Under the beams of dive lights, cuttlefish can be seen hunting among the shadows, while shrimp and crabs move along the wooden supports. Blue-ringed octopuses are occasionally spotted, often curled into the crevices at the base of the pilings or under nearby rubble.
The site is excellent for macro photography, with nudibranchs and flatworms showing up in surprising numbers, particularly after rain. It is also the only place I have ever seen a moray eel hunt and catch its prey.
Sawandarek
Depth: 8–25 metres
Dive type: Slope and coral wall
Look out for: Moray eels, lionfish, walking sharks, nudibranchs, crustaceans
The coral slope and wall at Sawandarek in central Raja Ampat are beautiful in any light, but during a night dive, the site reveals a new layer of activity.
The reef’s edge becomes a corridor for nocturnal predators. Moray eels slither from crevices in search of sleeping fish, and lionfish ambush small prey. Cuttlefish drift between coral heads, ever watchful, their skin pulsating with colours and patterns.
The elusive walking sharks are sometimes seen here, weaving through coral gardens or pausing motionless beneath an overhang. Divers who focus on the small details will be rewarded with nudibranchs and crustaceans hidden among the corals, as well as tiny squat lobsters and decorative crabs clinging to gorgonians.
How to have an enjoyable night dive in Raja Ampat
Use a reliable torch and bring a backup
Your torch is your lifeline on a night dive, so it’s essential that it’s bright, easy to handle, and fully charged. A backup light is just as important, tucked securely in a pocket or clipped on, in case your main torch fails. Without a working light, the dive becomes disorienting and potentially unsafe.
Consider using a red or dimmed beam for observing sensitive marine life
Many nocturnal creatures, like octopuses and crustaceans, are sensitive to bright white light. Using a red-filtered torch or a low-powered setting reduces stress on the animals and allows for closer observation. It also increases the chance of witnessing more natural behaviour, especially in shy species.
Master buoyancy control before diving in the dark
Perfecting buoyancy is critical at night, not only to avoid damaging delicate coral structures but also to maintain good orientation. The absence of daylight makes depth perception and navigation trickier, so being able to hover without sinking or floating up adds to safety and enjoyment. Practise during daytime dives if needed before attempting night dives.
Stay close to your buddy and maintain clear communication
It’s easy to lose sight of your buddy in the dark, so staying within arm’s reach is a good rule of thumb. Use simple hand signals or torch flashes to communicate, and agree on these signals before the dive begins. This helps avoid confusion and ensures that any issues can be quickly addressed.
Take your time and look closely
Night diving is not about covering ground, it’s about observing the small and often hidden wonders that emerge after dark. Move slowly, scan each coral head or sandy patch thoroughly, and you’ll be rewarded with sightings of unusual species. The more patient you are, the more you’ll see.
Watch for bioluminescence by switching off your torch
If conditions allow, turn off your torch for a moment during the dive and wave your hand gently through the water. You may see bursts of blue-green light from bioluminescent plankton, a truly magical experience. It’s one of the unique highlights of diving in Raja Ampat and not to be missed.
Tips for diving in Raja Ampat
Raja Ampat is a world-class diving destination, offering unparalleled biodiversity, stunning underwater landscapes, and unforgettable marine encounters. To help you plan your trip, here’s a summary of key points covering how to get there, the best time to visit, where to stay, and what to expect underwater.
How to get to Raja Ampat
To reach Raja Ampat, most international travellers first fly into major Indonesian cities like Jakarta or Bali. From there, domestic flights are available to Sorong, the gateway to Raja Ampat. Regular flights operate from cities such as Jakarta, Bali, and Makassar. Once in Sorong, a ferry or speedboat ride to Waisai, the capital of Raja Ampat, takes about 2-3 hours. For divers looking to explore remote areas, liveaboard trips are an excellent option, providing direct access to some of the region’s most pristine dive sites.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Raja Ampat depends on what you want to experience. The dry season, from May to September, is ideal for calm seas, excellent visibility (often exceeding 30 metres), and vibrant coral gardens. This period is perfect for underwater photography and exploring deeper dive sites. The wet season, from October to April, is characterised by higher rainfall and stronger winds but offers incredible opportunities to encounter manta rays, pelagic species, and even coral spawning events. Nutrient-rich waters during this time attract abundant marine life, though visibility may be slightly reduced. Transitional seasons, such as April-May and September-October, provide a balance of good visibility and diverse marine life, making them a great time to visit as well.
Where to stay
Raja Ampat offers a range of accommodation options to suit different budgets and preferences. Eco-friendly resorts, such as Misool Eco Resort, Papua Explorers, and Raja Ampat Biodiversity Resort, provide comfortable stays with easy access to dive sites. For a more local experience, homestays on islands like Arborek, Kri, or Gam are budget-friendly and allow visitors to connect with local communities. Liveaboards are another popular choice, especially for divers who want to explore remote sites and multiple regions of Raja Ampat. These floating accommodations vary in price and comfort, catering to different budgets.
Tips for visiting Raja Ampat
When planning your trip to Raja Ampat, it’s important to book early, as accommodations and liveaboards fill up quickly, especially during the dry season. Pack light, bringing lightweight, breathable clothing, reef-safe sunscreen, and a waterproof bag for boat trips. Respect the environment by following responsible diving practices, such as avoiding contact with marine life and not littering. Ensure you have travel insurance that covers diving and bring a basic first aid kit and any necessary medications. Finally, engage with local communities respectfully and support sustainable tourism initiatives to help preserve this incredible destination for future generations.
