Bolungarvík and beyond – A remote corner of Iceland
Once you get beyond Ring Road 1 in Iceland, everywhere is remote, but Bolungarvík in the far northwest of the Westfjords takes this to a whole new level. 473km from Reykjavík and 14km from nearby Ísafjörður it is isolated by most definitions of the word.
Bolungarvík
This small fishing town is dominated by the Bolafjall Mountain which rises to an impressive 638 metres, shrouded in cloud much of the time. Home to about 1000 people, it can be cut off in the winter months although the new tunnel to Ísafjörður built in 2010 gives it easier links to the outside world. This new road means that travel is easier, but travel has always been difficult with the village having no road in until 1950. Ísafjörður is a busy town with a large fishing port and one of the most amazing seafood restaurants on the planet – Tjöruhúsið, which from me, a non-seafood lover is saying something.
Bolungarvík was one of the largest fishing villages in Iceland with easy access to the fishing grounds in the north, but it was hit hard by the fishing quota system that was put in place by the Icelandic government in the 1990s. Even today fishing, fish processing and the associated supporting work are the main employment in the town.
Osvor Museum
The main road is wide but as with many of these small towns, it is quiet even on a weekday afternoon in summer. The turf-roofed museum on the shoreline is the only place where we are joined by others.
Osvor Museum takes you back to the fishermen’s turf huts and their harsh way of life that until relatively recently was still the only option. The huts are right on the pebbled shoreline protected from the winds by the cliffs behind but exposed to whatever the Atlantic Ocean chooses to deliver.
Óshólaviti – Bolungarvik Lighthouse
This bright orange concrete lighthouse sits 30 metres above the sea below looking out across the bay to Bolungarvik town and Bolafjall behind. Built in 1937 and electrified in 1964 this 3.5 metre high tower with 3 metre lantern has 3 flashes in white and red every 20 seconds. It was fully automated in 1995. There were plans to have a much higher tower at 6 metres but plans never became a reality.
Beyond Bolungarvík
Outside of the village, the rough road 630 follows the river initially before heading into the mountains. The mist hangs over these roads and it can be hard drive on a narrow sheer track that serves as a road. A fork in the gravel gives options to head to the top of Bolafjall Mountain to see the old U.S. Radar Station with views to Greenland on a good day (needless to say I saw neither with the density of fog!!)
However, taking the left fork follows a track downwards with sheep grazing. The sides of the valley are sheer with rough rugged peaks towering over the narrow valley. The ridges on the sides of the valley tell the story of the glaciers that passed through the area centuries ago. Eventually, the beautiful black sand beach at Skálavik comes into view. Pounded by the Atlantic it has a jumble of boulders and black sand. Tumbled by each wave the pebbles are rounded and smooth against the rough exterior of the ocean waves. The roar of the waves echoes across the valley even on a calm and foggy day, a reminder of who is in charge of this secluded landscape.
Small fishing huts are dotted along the coast, their colours a sharp contrast to the grey sky and deep green and brown of the shoreline and mountains. Forgotten and collapsing their colours mould to the landscape.
tips for visiting Bolungarvík
- Ensure that you fuel your car in Ísafjörður, the chance to fill up is limited
- Watch the weather forecasts carefully, they can change quickly and the roads are difficult in clear weather and scary in fog and mist
- Always allow extra time, the roads are mainly gravel and take longer to drive than anticipated
Getting to Bolungarvík and Skálavik
Bolungarvík is located off Route 61, 14km northwest of Ísafjörður and just under 500km northwest of Reykjavík. The lighthouse and Osvor Museum are down a small road on the right just after leaving the new tunnel. Originally on the only road in and out of the area, it is now a dead end turning to a track beyond the lighthouse.
Skálavik is reached on road 630 which is a gravel track leading west into the mountains from the edge of town. A junction at the top of the first incline takes you straight on up to the summit the top of Bolafjall and the radar station or taking the left fork will take you downhill to Skálavik Beach.
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